a hydrogen fuel generator on a diesel engine?

Dealing with all subsystems specific to the diesel powered Datsun-Nissan 720 pickup trucks.

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a hydrogen fuel generator on a diesel engine?


Post by phoneinstaller »

Has any buddy put a hydrogen fuel generator on a diesel engine?

I have been looking into cost for hydrogen fuel generator for a small diesel truck.
Does any body know if this works or not.
Think I could make one for $60 to $100 in a glass jar.
With about 15 amps draw cold and 20 amps hot. Is that to much draw on the alternator?

You tube has a lot on this.
If you Google HHO fuel you will find a lot on this.
You can Google hydrogen fuel generator and see a lot.
Rite now I am getting my miles about 32 MPG on a 2WD truck with a SD22 engine.
Any ideas on this?
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Post by Zoltan »

I don't want to burst your (hydrogen) bubbles, but it sounds like a scam to me.
Think about it: you're burning gas (or diesel) to turn an alternator which splits water into H2 and O, so far all these steps require energy. Then you are reversing only the last step (burning H2 is combining H2 with O = water) and you're expecting an energy gain. It's a thermodynamic nonsense. You loose energy every step of the way in the form of heat.
- Zoltan -
'82 Datsun 720 SD22 California model
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Browns gas- don't get suckered.


Post by weezledeezle »

Okay, so regarding Browns gas( H2 and O2 in perfect 2:1 ratio) and what I have learned. So first to answer your question- yes, I have been playing with hydrogen generation for several years, and have seen a dramatic improvement in performance and fuel efficiency in several vehicles. Anything you buy for that price (<$500US) will never give you what is possible (upwards of 40% better combustion efficiency) Browns gas is the perfect emissions control (and the only thing any and all cars should or would need) for diesels, because it burns hot and fast and makes everything in the combustion chamber go off NOW. The flammability of hydrogen in air is a broad range between about 4% and 94%- meaning it carries the flame to areas of lean or rich mixture in the combustion process. The rapidly expanding acoustic wave also serves to shatter fuel droplets, and turn the fuel into a much finer mist. I would say the upper limit to Browns gas injection should be no more than 2% of inflowing air volume (it goes BANG on its own compressed at 4%) Heat is the downside to adding Browns gas to an ICE. Valves get hotter, turbines run hotter- eeeek! So, unless you want to fry your valves and pistons... A: install a pyro before you go playing with anything that has to do with combustion temps. B: get a good water/methanol injection system to bring combustion temps down (and all the other bennies that you get with that). C: run Amsoil or Mobil1 5w40 diesel oil. After that is all done, and you are ready to see for yourself, return to this point. Internet cheez: Stainless Steel electrodes are crap. I have tried (and seen) many different alloys and none work when you force the electronegativity of the cell. Hence SS rods + sodium bicarbonate (and certainly something like NaOH is out) means you get a thin dielectric ceramic forming on your electrodes and the cell stops producing (or your positive electrode just dissolves). Use microcrystalline graphite (Pure compressed carbon) rods or plates (or blow the big bucks and buy Pt or Au electrodes that you can pass to your grandchilren) Next, a question- are you going to keep your engine at idle all the time? No? You are going to push the accelerator pedal and make the engine rev? Well, that means you will use more air and fuel, but what is controlling the electrolysis cell to make its production keep up a constant 2%injection rate? Answer: A high current PWM controller, powering a big enough cell to make 2% of intake air at a good highway cruise, lowering production to safe idle levels. A cheezy little internet gimmick gives you no control- just hook it up- "one size fits all joe!"? I think not. I use 8- .25" dia. graphite rods (surface area anyone?) in a big mason jar filled with a 1/100th molar solution of NaOH (Lye- NOT Drano!), hooked to a 40A, 14v PWM controller I built. It will turn the entire contents to froth and make a massive amount of Browns gas. You need to keep the electrolyte where it belongs with baffles and matting (lye water in turbo Baaaad) and a checkvalve and/or a sintered bronze fuel filter will keep any backfires out of the cell. Next test is variable frequency... heh heh heh... I am not selling anything, nor advertising, just sharing what I've learned. Peace and Love and better fuel efficiency- Thank You Science!! :)
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Post by davehoos »

have a customer that owns/operates a dyno and tunes some aftermarket EFI computors.

we was talking about LPG diesels when he told me of some older club rangerover/discovery owners that are getting good results from very little HHO.the diesels run better and the very fuel thirsty petrol V8 version improoved fuel consumption by a large % with recordable differences on the dyno.

he thinks its about getting the engine to run in the sweet spot.
the EFI managment was changed and played with over a period of time.
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Post by weezledeezle »

It doesn't take a lot of browns gas to get a lot of bang. Catalytic converters are used in gassers to finish burning the fuel left over after combustion ceases and the exhaust valves open. What if combustion were more complete and efficient in the chamber? All the black smoke out diesel tailpipes? Unburnt fuel right? What if all that soot finished burning before the exhaust valves open and went into making more power instead? There are no freebies here, no breaking the second law, none of that, just more complete combustion. You put in 1/2 Kw electrical from the alternator, and you get 10Kw out as mechanical work because you are completing combustion where the energy is extractable and usable through higher combustion pressures. This is not a new idea- its over a hundred years old actually. We now have the materials science and silicon tech to make better use of the idea than ever before.
84 Jeep XJ Wagoneer 4wd w/ Nissan SD22 and TC-05 turbo w/ 2-1/2" straight pipes to a BW T5 trans. Mods and Mods and Mods everywhere. 40 mpg avg and climbing.
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Post by ecomike »

I am a chemical engineer, and I have been looking into this on paper for some time. I also have electrochemical battery, electroplating and electrolysis back ground, including patents. This is the best post I have ever seen on the topic, as far as what they are saying. I have not seen any statements here, yet, that I could not defend thermodynamically and I concur on the statements as to what hardware does and does not work best.

I want to hear more nitty-gritty details, like where the browns gas injection point was. And how you coupled the PWM controller to the throttle or fuel demand. :D


1985 Jeep Cherokee Pioneer, 2WD, retrofitted with SD-22 & 5 spd manual trans, a 4X4 Gas Wagoneer ltd. (XJ) Jeep, 4.0 L w/ AW4 auto, and now 2 spare 2wd Jeeps, 87 & 89.
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Post by JFthunder1 »

Where do i get low cost generator
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Post by Redrocket »

I wonder if anyone has any mpg figures for before/after on a sd22. I would be pretty curious if there is a significant difference in MPG's.
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Post by Nissan_Ranger »

...Waiting to see objective before/after figures...
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Post by LewisT »

Does anyone have any links to a DIY of this? I would think that someone would have made an aftermarket hydrogen fuel generator by now if this worked well. I'm definitely intrigued by what I've read and how it supposedly has worked for cars out there but I'd actually like to see a build of it.
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Post by Nissan_Ranger »

Google Browns gas; there's lots to be found. Not much in the way of any reliable objective research unfortunately...
The old 'six gun' was as popular as the cell phone in its time and just as annoying when it went off in the Theater.
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