1996 Ranger w/SD22 swap

#1

Here is the nearly functional 1996 ranger I swapped an SD22 into. My plan is to do a veggie oil conversion but currently I am still working the bugs out on just diesel. The conversion required removing the existing engine and driveshaft, customizing the oil pan, unbolting the ford mounts, adjusting them and welding them to the towers. I made a trans mount out of angle iron, used the existing ford rear crossmember to attach the fitted exhaust to. Got a driveshaft shop to fashion a nissan to ford rear axle driveshaft, gutted the fuel pump out of the tank and modified the pickup, cut the thermoplastic line that connects to the ford master and pressed in a fitting so that i could connect it to a steel line which goes to the nissan slave cylinder. I mounted a ebay hall effect sensor near the crank pulley and mounted two magnets on the pulley. The signal correctly drives the ford tach. The water temp hooked up and the oil signal is inverted so shows no oil pressure when running but pressure when off. I made an inverter using a transistor to correct this. The speedo is still electrical. I cut the drive end off of a speedo cable and machined it to fit onto the ford sensor. I worked hard to keep the engine as far forward as possible so that the shifter would be in front of the seat. I made a little tray to fill in the existing shifter hole. I had issues with the ford master clutch cylinder overtravelling the slave. I had to weld an adjustable stop on the clutch pedal and made a bracket that fits on the slave that has a return stop and spring to retract it properly (to avoid the throwout bearing from contacting all the time. I also fitted 2003 ranger seats (pain in the rear) just cause they were in better shape and had them.

All in all the truck works pretty well. I used the old truck as a yard truck for a number of years so knew that it worked well. When I first got it it had not run for a number of years and it smoked horribly. I cleaned the fuel system and despite it working reliably it looked like a moving forest fire. I pulled the injectors and put sea foam in the cylinders every day for a week. When I put it back together it cleared up. I think it unfroze carbon from the rings?

The truck has over the first 600km has gotten roughly 32 us mpg with a 3.75 rear axle. It has enough power ... just enough but it cruises on the highway at 100 k in 5th gear (relatively flat). I could never drive the old truck on the road because it was never road worthy. When I had it apart i noticed the countershaft bearing had been changed and the end of the shaft peened to tighten the bearing up on the shaft. Siezed at some time and damaged the shaft probably. I left it alone but have since found another trans to go in in the near future. The ford rear end needs some attention too. The 7.5" makes noise. Thats what you get from a $400 donor truck.

Right now the truck has not glow control or injection pump control. I plan on using the dco? That servo that controls the injector. The thermo switch and a 3 way solenoid as sensor and actuator for a microcontroller based (arduino) engine control system. I want it so the veggie oil will switch over when the engine is warm, and when you turn the truck off it will keep running until it purges the veggie oil. It will also control the glow timing as well. I have all the original control stuff and it works but wanted to go this route instead.

Long winded I know but maybe some of you may find it informative. Thanks to member Diesel_ranger for all his help with the conversion.

#2

Below is a link for images to my nearly functional 1996 ranger I swapped an SD22 into. My plan is to do a veggie oil conversion but currently I am still working the bugs out on just diesel. The conversion required removing the existing engine and driveshaft, customizing the oil pan, unbolting the ford mounts, adjusting them and welding them to the towers. I made a trans mount out of angle iron, used the existing ford rear crossmember to attach the fitted exhaust to. Got a driveshaft shop to fashion a nissan to ford rear axle driveshaft, gutted the fuel pump out of the tank and modified the pickup, cut the thermoplastic line that connects to the ford master and pressed in a fitting so that i could connect it to a steel line which goes to the nissan slave cylinder. I mounted a ebay hall effect sensor near the crank pulley and mounted two magnets on the pulley. The signal correctly drives the ford tach. The water temp hooked up and the oil signal is inverted so shows no oil pressure when running but pressure when off. I made an inverter using a transistor to correct this. The speedo is still electrical. I cut the drive end off of a speedo cable and machined it to fit onto the ford sensor. I worked hard to keep the engine as far forward as possible so that the shifter would be in front of the seat. I made a little tray to fill in the existing shifter hole. I had issues with the ford master clutch cylinder overtravelling the slave. I had to weld an adjustable stop on the clutch pedal and made a bracket that fits on the slave that has a return stop and spring to retract it properly (to avoid the throwout bearing from contacting all the time. I also fitted 2003 ranger seats (pain in the rear) just cause they were in better shape and had them.

All in all the truck works pretty well. I used the old truck as a yard truck for a number of years so knew that it worked well. When I first got it it had not run for a number of years and it smoked horribly. I cleaned the fuel system and despite it working reliably it looked like a moving forest fire. I pulled the injectors and put sea foam in the cylinders every day for a week. When I put it back together it cleared up. I think it unfroze carbon from the rings?

The truck has over the first 600km has gotten roughly 32 us mpg with a 3.75 rear axle. It has enough power ... just enough but it cruises on the highway at 100 k in 5th gear (relatively flat). I could never drive the old truck on the road because it was never road worthy. When I had it apart i noticed the countershaft bearing had been changed and the end of the shaft peened to tighten the bearing up on the shaft. Siezed at some time and damaged the shaft probably. I left it alone but have since found another trans to go in in the near future. The ford rear end needs some attention too. The 7.5" makes noise. Thats what you get from a $400 donor truck.

Right now the truck has not glow control or injection pump control. I plan on using the dco? That servo that controls the injector. The thermo switch and a 3 way solenoid as sensor and actuator for a microcontroller based (arduino) engine control system. I want it so the veggie oil will switch over when the engine is warm, and when you turn the truck off it will keep running until it purges the veggie oil. It will also control the glow timing as well. I have all the original control stuff and it works but wanted to go this route instead.

Long winded I know but maybe some of you may find it informative. Thanks to member Nissan_Ranger for all his help with the conversion.[/img]

#3

Keep us informed.

#4

*** LINK BELOW *** let me know if it isn't working

https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=E ... oto%2c.jpg

#5

Yup it works.

lots of work, especially to the oil pan.

#6

I hope to see some pictures soon...

N_R

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