NissanDiesel Forums

The FSM is not very clear on how this is done, but the trick is (IIRC), with everything in the neutral position, to turn the shifter (striker guide) to the left (over to the first/second side, but without the stopper guide pin it will go past that), push the tail housing all the way on, then move the shifter back to the middle position. Be sure that the stopper guide pin is not assembled until the tailshaft is on.

Thanks Knucklehead, I took it apart to see if I had assembled it wrong the first time, but I did have it right. I was thrown off because I wasn't able to move the striker pin to the neutral position that would then allow me to move the striker guide, everything is working fine now. Its installed in the truck now with the diesel engine, I've just have to fit the driver side engine mount and then the powertrain will be fully installed.



David

Hi all,

I have a FS5W71B that is fairly noisy with clutch disengaged? (rest position) Am I wrong to assume that if I replace the front bearing my transmission will be in "good" mechanical shape, but will still have the same sound with the clutch disengaged? Is there a point of no return with this tranmissions. Is there a such thing as to much noise before changing the bearing that will result in a crapped tranmission regardless? If so does anyone know any quick and dirty tricks? or better yet quick and clean?

Sorry Doc, it's not that easy. No way to tell for sure, and anything you skimp on will come back to bite you later. I've done it enough times to know. It's an easy trans to work on, but while you're in there you might as well do everything you can. I'm not sure what you mean about the noise because disengaged/rest is unclear. If your foot is at rest, then the clutch is engaged. On the other hand, if you're stepping on the pedal the clutch is disengaged but the trans is at rest. If there is only noise when you step, just do the throw out bearing. If the noise is there while idling in neutral and your foot off the pedal, then the bearings in the trans are bad and you should do everything possible.

Thanks that sounds like sound advice. Do you think it would be better to try and track down the parts for the FS5W71B or go with the case mod and cut drive shaft and replace with the F5W71C with the larger bearing?

Bigger may be better, but whether your need is worth the effort is something only you can decide. Rebuild parts for the B are easily available and relatively inexpensive. It's the gears and shafts that are expensive for either B or C.

I think I am am going to find the parts for the B. I believe the original transmission has over 320k miles, if I get half that I'll be happy. Thanks again.

Little over a year later and I'm finally getting to it. Could someone look at this pic of my reverse idler gear and tell me if the teeth are to worn to reuse, I don't mind having to shift to first before going to reverse.

Wow, little over a year and I'm finally getting to it. I have the whole thing apart and ordered a rebuild kit from driveline.com. It has bearings (1 needle), front cover gasket and 2 seals. Does anyone know where to get thrust washers and snap rings or if mine are in good shape can I reuse them?

My failure occurred on the bench and was in the adapter plate, I think the smaller bearing but I will check again and upload pictures later.

Thanks

Before you get your transmission put back together. check on the adaptor plate, there is a small metal trough that fits into a hole, one side is flaired out. the other side collects oil I guess to dumps it on the other side on a gear or?

I had my trans apart about 2 plus yrs ago, and this trough was about ready to break off. It was just hanging by a thread. If it had, it would have messed up some gears.

It is a dealer item part# 32137-E9000 Gutter-Oil. On 1-12-09 it was $2.87 plus tax.

Charlie

I broke mine off, I think I'm just going to save the scraps and make my own. I not a mechanic but I don't think it would be likely to damage the tans to pass that thin gauge material through the gears, again definitely not an expert on these matters

The drain magnet would hold the bits down, once they got chewed small enough.

The gears are harder than sheet metal.

Dr Jones, what brand bearings came from driveline? I am in the midst of of transmission rebuild on a 1984 King Cab. While I have it apart I am probably going to replace the reverse main and idler gears. Both have about 3 damaged teeth - chipped or cracked across about 1/4 of the width. New ones from the dealer will run about $200. Right now the tranny is _completely_ disassembed on the bench in labeled zip lock bags.

I think Nachti I will check when I get home. It was roughly $100 came with all bearings except needle bearings although I did get one needle bearing and it came with the seals and gasket. Are you replacing snap rings and thrust washers? If so can you point me in the direction of your supplier? Let me go ahead and ask this since if not for any other reason than to eliminate possibilities, You won't know where I can find the bearing retainer plate that attaches to the adapter plate, would you? I talked with Nissan and they said $23 dollars then they said there wasn't one anywhere in the country.

Does anyone know how I could find out if the bearing retainer plate from a 74-77 280 z 4 spd transmission is the same as FS5W71B. Or does anyone know if these transmission will bolt onto the LD28?