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Posted: Sun Sep 02, 2007 8:28 am
It has the distributor or rotary type pump Diesel KIKI- Bosch VE type with the CSD on the side of it. It is referenced in the manual that I have on page(s) EF & EC - 204 and how to adjust the plunger lift on the distributor head with a dial indicator and clearence(s) for the push rod from the CSD etc. etc.
Posted: Mon Sep 03, 2007 3:00 am
australia model has VE pump with no cold start.
1987 SDS LIST OFF MANUALS AVAILABLE.
1988 AS ABOVE-- ,SM7E-D21SG1,SM8E-D21SG1.
i think G is for GENERAL AREAS.
E is europe.
A is for australia.
the SDS books i have 1987 =SD8E-PT00GO.
these dont include american continental models.
Posted: Mon Sep 03, 2007 8:04 am
I guess they never offered the fuel heater option in Aus. either. Seems to work well so far. A bit convoluted in how it is operated though with one one pressure switch, one temp switch, and one relay, but seems to make the liitle guy happy on those -25C, and -30C days, another thing they don't offer in Aus.
Posted: Sun Sep 09, 2007 5:50 am
Hey plenzen, could you scan the diesel parts and post them as a PDF???? I would forever be in your debt.
Posted: Sun Sep 09, 2007 7:21 pm
I would be more than happy to do that but I think it would take quite a while because there are a lot of things on the SD25 in different sections. The book is pretty thick at 2 inches and won’t lay flat on my scanner. I can go to Kinko’s or Office Depot and see what they would charge to scan and copy and let you know. If you want, I can then get it done and ship those parts of the manual to you via snail mail. The problem, like I said, is that the book won’t lay flat on the scanner and will miss a ton of detail etc. Photographs will take FOREVER and although I am retired,,,,,, well,,,,,, I don’t think so. Let me look into it and I will let you know.
Posted: Sun Sep 09, 2007 7:39 pm
greaseburner wrote:Hey plenzen, could you scan the diesel parts . . .
Have you tried to obtain the manual from the Nissan dealer network? It may be available, and I've never purchased a Nissan FSM from the dealer that was over $80 (yet), which is quite reasonable compared to other marques' prices for technical literature.
I've done a fair amount of scanning of manuals over the years (link 1
, link 2
, link 3
) and I can tell you that, done well, it takes a huge amount of time. I would never put my stuff in a PDF, by the time I've scanned a manual I want some return on my investment (like contributors to add to the manuals, which is what I set up eight years ago). Scanning a manual like a Nissan FSM well in its entirety is over a hundred hours of work. Even just the 720 FSM "EL" section (98 pages)
was an entire weekend's effort -- I only did it to be able to point people to the DPC/IPC and GP systems: the 720 FSMs are readily available for purchase, it is not my intention to make free something that is easily purchased for little money.
Scanning a manual poorly (bandsaw off the binding, use a sheet feeder on a scanner and baby-sit it, automatic processing of the data) is still a lot of work and pretty well destroys the manual, and the finished product is generally poor, though still somewhat useful.
I've done it several ways over the years.
Posted: Sun Sep 09, 2007 7:50 pm
I have to go to the Nissan dealer in the next few weeks for a LF side marker light bulb holder. I will take my FSM with me and see what he says when he stops laughing at me. He has been really good at getting different bits for me so far. The only thing that he was not able to get was the actual banjo fitting that goes on the side of the Cyl head. He got the bolt, the gaskets, etc, but the actual fitting was out of production. I can still order a rocker shaft and oil pump if I want it and they ship from Japan. I will ask if they still might even have one or two of these manuals kicking around the shop with all the Nissan SD25 tools that the say they still have,,,,,,,,, someplace. I know where the old service manager has moved to so will find out from him if he knows where they might be.
Posted: Mon Jan 07, 2008 8:04 pm
Where abouts in Vancouver or BC do ya live???
I just bought this truck from Kelowna, and I've so far tryedn adjusting the fueling screw on the IP. I cannot find a repair manual that illustrates the proper adjustments on the VE pump for this nissan, and I don't think I'm the only one. Can you please help me out on this? I would really appreciate it.
Posted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 6:30 am
Don’t live in BC, live near Calgary. What screw are you winding on? In the FSM there are no adjustments for fueling, but there are settings for the Cold Start Device ( CSD) and Plunger lift for setting the timing. AFAIK all the adjustments for setting fuel rack and governor are internal. Min Idle is lock wired from Factory. There is an adjustment for "fast Idle" for lack of a better term but that coincides with the CSD.
What problems are you having that you have to adjust fuel?
Posted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 2:47 pm
Well I'm familiar with the old VW VE pumps, and I thought this was similar, the screw with the slotted end and the locknut is the one i thought was the fuel load screw, when backi it out less power, I can increase the power when turning it in. However at the same time this raises the idle.
The truck amazingly does not smoke, but the reason I'm trying to adjust is because of the high idle araound 1000rpm when i know it should be somewhere around 700rpm, and hard start wen cold. I'vv checked the glow plug circuit, it works, but to me it does not stay on long enough.
I'll try taking a picture of the pump so i can show you exactly which screw im sdjusting.
I wouldnt mind being able to fine tune the timing also, who knows where it is now.
Posted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 6:41 pm
The book says that the timing should be at 6 BTDC. They list a plunger lift of .95 - .99 mm (.0374 - .0390 in.) On the specs page they say this is equal to approx 6 B.T.D.C.
1. remove plug bolt from distributor head and install dial gauge
2. Set CSD device so it does not operate
(a) Turn CSD linkage clockwise ( they show a phillips screwdriver inserted through the two holes at the end of the CSD and lever it to the rear of the engine)
(b) Set block [length about 15 mm (.59 in)] between CSD and linkage
3. Adjust and measure plunger lift
(1) Turn crankshaft counterclockwise 20 to 25 degrees from No. 1 piston at T.D.C.
(2) Find dial gauge’s rest position at step (1) set position, then set the gauge to zero
(3) Turn crankshaft clockwise until No.1 piston is at T.D.C.
(4.) Read dial gauge
Plunger lift .95 - .99 mm (.0374 - .0390 in)
(5) If dial gauge is not within the above range, turn pump body until it falls within range
(a.) If smaller turn pump counterclockwise
(b.) If larger turn pump clockwise
4. Tighten injection pump securley:
Injection pump fixing bolt to 20 - 25 Nm (14 - 19 ft-lb)
Injection pump to mounting bracket 16 - 22 Nm (12 - 17 lb ft.)
5. Disconnect dial gauge and install plug bolt with a new washer
(14 - 20 Nm (10 - 14 Ft Lb)
After plunger lift adjustment, mark aligning marks on injection pump flange and front plate.
They do not mention to re-engage the CSD but I would assume that you do. There are marks on mine where it was factory set already so I assume that this procedure is for if and when you may get the pump serviced.
Posted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 6:46 pm
So here it is...what do you think?
BTW do you know anything about adjusting the start of delivery(timing) with a dial indicator and a VW sleeve inserted into the back of the IP.
Bosch is Bosch.
Posted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 7:02 pm
These little guys do not like the cold at all. At least mine does not. The old retired service guy from a Nissan dealership in Calgary (1978 to 2006) assured me that at -10 it would not go if not plugged in. I ended up installing an air box heater and you can read about that in Users rigs under Retired Paulys D21. (still have not figured out how to make a link to different threads yet, computer stupid you know). There is a quick glow and an after glow system on your truck. Hook a test light to one of the glow plugs when engine is cold and cycle them on with the key. The test light will glow brightly at first and you will hear a clunk of the relay shutting off, the light will then dim and then will eventually go out with another clunk. The dim light is half power to the glow plugs that keeps them warm during cold start idle and helps smooth out the idle. The glow plugs for these are specific to allow for this “quick glow” and "after glow" cycle. I believe Al has posted a link to the proper glow plugs for these as well as other SD engines. I purchased Delphi HDS 283 glow plugs for mine and so far they have stood up quite well, but as everything north of the 49th they were expensive. I believe the proper NGK number is 1132 or Y-112RS1. (Al or Phillip will correct me if I am wrong) If you remove one and hook to a battery the very tip should glow red within a few seconds (less than 5 I think). The air heater was a definite improvement to the cold starts and I have had good success at -19C with a 20 second preheat on the air heater and two cycles of the glow plugs, cranking one to two seconds after the second cycle has begun. I have hooked a small light to the dashboard to tell me when the plugs are in “quick glow” and when they have switched to “after glow”. ( bright to dim) I have also installed a relay to fire the air heater and will explain to you how I did that if you wish.
Posted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 7:14 pm
Just typing here and there are your pictures
The small screw that you show at the front of the pump is the "fast Idle" screw near as I can tell on mine. If you put your finger under the CSD (the thing that you ask if there should be anything hooked to it) there is a small screw with a buffering spring on it. Lift that while the engine is running and you will see the lever that rests against that screw move and increase idle speed. That lock nut and screw can be backed out to slow the idle. ( set when hot) The two holes that you ask if there should be anything hooked to is where you put the phillips screw driver shaft to disable the CSD. The other two screws that you mention are lock wired on mine and have not been messed with. One is as you say min fuel idle and the other is the fuel screw, but again are lock wired. There is nothing mentioned about any of these in the FSM. And they do not give any adjustments on them and state that Service of the injection pump must be done at service centers recommended by the pump manufacturer
Hope tis helps
Posted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 8:21 pm
@jozef: You say Bosch is Bosch, and to a large degree that's correct, but recall that this is (IIUC) not
a Bosch IP. It is a Bosch-licensed
IP. Or is yours Bosch? SD25s are rare in the States, and I've never seen one in the flesh.
I see no reason why the VW adapter and appropriate dial indicator wouldn't do, unless (as on the Maximas' LD28) there is no room behind the IP for the dial indicator. For more information and a couple of pictures (on a Toyota diesel with a Denso version of the Bosch VE IP), see the latter part of this post
(The IP must be timed on the vehicle, of course; this pic is only a mock-up)
There exist alternate adapters that bring the dial indicator out to the side. They are quite expensive.
There's also a post on how to shorten up the VW adapter for use on the LD28
, which might apply if you have no room for the std VW adapter on your SD25. Good pics by member Dr. Jones.
@Paul: The way to link to another post correctly is laid out in this post
. It is not as hard as I make it look in that post -- I am wordy.
6° BTDC: is this from a Nissan manual? First time I've seen a degree equivalent to plunger lift on a VE IP.