About the factory fan - how does it works?

General information about the first-generation Nissan Maxima in the US. What was the Datsun 810 became the luxury leader Maxima in the US in 1981.

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kossak
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About the factory fan - how does it works?

#1

Post by kossak » 11 years ago

Hi,

I'm having some issues with the factory fan. I took it from another LD28 engine and I remember that my father used to complain about overheating, so what he did was to put 2 screws in it to keep it spinning at full speed.

The problem is that it is very noisy at 2000+ rpm and is very annoying.
I tried once to remove the 2 screws but then the water temp was sitting almost at maximum. I also noticed that I could rotate the fan manualy and there was no resistance at all.

I read on a topic that it should look up. When should this happen?

Probably those 2 holes that my father did destroyed the cluch mechanism...
'86 Nissan Laurel LD28 AT

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kassim503
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#2

Post by kassim503 » 11 years ago

Your fan clutch is busted, its the part in the center of the fan blades that has the two screws in there.

It cant be repaired b/c of the holes from the screws, so you have to find another one to fix it.

Two words of warning
1) the screws are overspeeding the nylon fan, and it will start to crack and break up over time.

2) If you get a cheap aftermarket replacement clutch, it may be set to engage at 210 degrees instead of 180, you need to adjust the spring to get it right.
'83 maxima sedan, l24e, a/t, black

227K SOLD 6/7/2012

diesel-man
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#3

Post by diesel-man » 11 years ago

The thermostatic clutch fan can be repaired if the original fluid is still in it.

Remove fan (and these two bolts) The clutch fan has 4 bolts that hold the 2 halves together, remove them, pry the two halves apart...but keep it flat so that none of the fluid runs out. Leave it sit with the half that bolts to the water pump facing up for 15 minutes. (an o-ring seals the two halves) Seperate the two halves, and take the half that bolts to the water pump and flip it over, and you will see that there is a disc in the center that is slipping on the shaft that bolts to the water pump. You need to use a center punch and "stake" about 12 or more places to "connect" the two peices so that they will not slip any more. (maybe almost 1mm deep) Do whatever you have to do to make it move as one peice....no slipping. You can't weld it ir use bolts or screws. Those two peices were originally pressed together, just not tight enough.

Most important is to not lose any fluid from inside. It really isn't that hard.

davehoos
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#4

Post by davehoos » 11 years ago

nissan hub flat out rotates under 3000 rpm.over that the fan falls apart.
always check fan belts and crank pulley.they often look good and slip,with the hub locked up the water pump pulley often slips to the point it stops working.

the hub operates with air temp.normally engages 70 c then disengage 35 c.
they engage when you first start up--untill they fluid centrifically flows into the storage chamber--this time give an indication of how much fluid is present.

some hubs work when cold,inside this a slotted plate-the bymetal strip rotates a flap to uncover the fluid passage.Ive often found it moves to far each side.i recomend a heat gun thermometer and an adjuster of some type.

fitting non stock radiator changes the air to water temp ratio.the impotant bit is to borrow a spot temp sencor[laser things] and a nomal thermometer that will handle 100 c.these new cheep thermometers are good incase it gets lost.

fluid is available for toyota as its serviced regulaly in most 6 cyl [crown-landcruiser].these have filler plugs.the aftermarket hubs and other brands i found have fluids of varied viscosity.for the nissan the fluid that becomes more solid [visco diffs] when hot is not the good idea.
WCJR31 Skyline.3.0 manual.wagon
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rlaggren
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#5

Post by rlaggren » 11 years ago

> can't weld it ...

Diesel-man, I guessing that's because of the seal (don't want to burn it), right? Seems like a couple tack welds could be applied w/out frying the seal; maybe grind them down after for balance.

Unless staking is easier. Not sure I see how that works, though cuz isn't the shaft pretty hard to put an indentation into? Haven't seen the guts myself so maybe I don't have the right sense if this.

Dave - do you think the Toyota fluid would work on Nissan clutches? Or is that one of the ones that won't?

Rufus
82 Maxima wagon

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kossak
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#6

Post by kossak » 11 years ago

Thank you all for the answers. This weekend I'll have some time to check the fan. But I'm afraid that the fluid is no longer there....so probably I'll have to come out with some ideas.

However, if it will be impossible to do anything to it, I'm thinking to put a smaller fan, which should make less noise...

I'll let you know the results :) I appreciate all your help :)

Florin
'86 Nissan Laurel LD28 AT

davehoos
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#7

Post by davehoos » 11 years ago

toyota fluid if its available in the USA should be the same as the original nissan.
ive had problems with new hubs that are filled with a heavier fliud than is needed.

these items are mostly the same aisian brand units.
[couple other brands but all the nissan types are similar]

my old mitubishi I had the other type of clutch with out a bymetal valve,ive also had this type on the rover these dont work in slow hot traffic..
the 80's ford falcon here in OZ refer to to a basic clutch hub that runs at one speed ratio,ive not seen on a car but the parts shops sell these.

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kassim503
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#8

Post by kassim503 » 11 years ago

If you are gonna permantly lock up the fan, you might as well stick the screws back into it. Same concept
'83 maxima sedan, l24e, a/t, black

227K SOLD 6/7/2012

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asavage
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#9

Post by asavage » 11 years ago

The water pump bearings are not sized for the considerably higher loading of a mechanical fan at higher speeds. That noise is a warning.

Can you acquire another fan clutch? I have a couple of used ones.
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.

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kossak
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#10

Post by kossak » 11 years ago

Hi,

Finally I was able to find another clutch fan. I tried to use one from a '89 BMW with gasoline engine, but that one wasn't good, the engine temperature used to go very high (near the red line). But for safety, I installed an electric fan and I used that.

I went to a junk yard on Friday and I asked for a clutch fan for a mid '80 nissan diesel. What I found was good, it was written Nissan 2.0 on the fan, so I thought it was from an LD20 engine.
When I got home I noticed that it was a bit different from what I had, but I installed it and it seems to be working fine. I tested it on a long hill and the temperature indicator wouldn't go higher than 3/4 of the gauge.
So I would say that problem is solved. Very happy with that.


Of course, locking the fan permanently would not have been a solution, I was thinking about the load to the water pump and of course the noise.
'86 Nissan Laurel LD28 AT

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