cv joint removal

General information about the first-generation Nissan Maxima in the US. What was the Datsun 810 became the luxury leader Maxima in the US in 1981.

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kassim503
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cv joint removal

#1

Post by kassim503 » 14 years ago

Has anybody had success in removing the CV halfshafts out of the differential? Im trying to get my Halfshafts remanufactured or at least change the boots on them- both inners are split boots, badly cracked in 5000 miles and the outers are badly cracked as well.

I attempted at removing my halfshafts by opening the differential and trying to dissasemble the spider gears inside it, but the locking pin wouldnt come out (couldnt get the force at the right angle).

I also tried to remove them by prying the halfshafts out by sticking a pry bar between the shaft and the differential case, didnt work either. If i did manage to pry the shafts out would that mean I would have to hammer the shafts back in?

Also would anybody have a extra set of good halfshafts on hand? Mine used to run many miles without boots and if im able to get ahold of another set I would like to.
'83 maxima sedan, l24e, a/t, black

227K SOLD 6/7/2012

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asavage
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#2

Post by asavage » 14 years ago

Carimbo has removed two sets (I think) of them now. Or maybe it was just the one set from the '83 Sedan gasser three weekends ago. They slipped right out with only minor prying between the inner CV cups and the diff's housing.

I don't think he wants to give up his, they're spares for his Sedan.

I passed up pulling a set at the JY. The Lakewood '84 Sedan may have a set, they get $22 ea for them (plus $2 to get in, plus driving there, etc.). No way can I get there before next weekend . . . and I'm not certain that that car is even there anymore.

New is $589. Each.
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.

Carimbo
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#3

Post by Carimbo » 14 years ago

Some can be near impossible to pop off.

You need to remove all the bolts at the wheelhub, then pry the halfshaft free of the wheelhub (I had the halfshaft outer end resting free just outside the 2 o'clock position on the RH wheelhub), then use a large prybar between the inner CV housing and the shoulder of the differential carrier. I used a 24" tire spoon and was able to push it with my foot until halfshaft popped free, then simply pulled it the rest of the way out.

Currently one of mine also has a completely cracked inner boot; leaving a large grease trail on the underbody and nearby components. My plan is to replace them soon as better weather is starting. I presume installation is straightforward.

Before this last time I had tried two times unsuccessfully to remove halfshaft from another car at the JY-- it would not budge noway. Am sure this last time was a success however because I had brought my 4lbs. demo hammer to the work area just in case. Usually when I do this the items come apart easily because "they know..."

Somebody said the CV joints in this application are not very stressed and so probably not as prone to failure as on a FWD car. Mine has seen at least 10,000 miles with the cracked boot in all kinds of wet and muddy conditions and still seems quiet and solid. Here is the thread the last time this topic came up.

davehoos
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#4

Post by davehoos » 14 years ago

slide hammer.

hose clamp a chain to it.its the impact that pops them out.

i find that the lever idea can be too much damaging the circlip..
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83_maxima
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#5

Post by 83_maxima » 14 years ago

I've done this on my max and on an 85 200sx which was my rear-end donor car.

Once the cv is free from the wheel hub, I just yanked on the cv. There is a small clip inside the diff that holds it in place. A few stout jerks and they popped right out - both my max and the 200sx. I was leery of prying with anything because I didn't want to cause any damage.

I ended up finding a web page about z-car diffs that outlined this procedure. Z-car info can be very useful when working on our cars - especially the gassers.

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kassim503
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#6

Post by kassim503 » 12 years ago

anybody know if the rear halfshafts are compatable from the maxima to some 80's 280zxt? My day at the jy yielded one hot turbo Z, pristine except for floor rot :(

before closing time i was able to pull a underhood light and a MF switch, im going back tommorow, try to clean out anything that i could possibly need
'83 maxima sedan, l24e, a/t, black

227K SOLD 6/7/2012

Carimbo
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#7

Post by Carimbo » 12 years ago

kassim503 wrote:anybody know if the rear halfshafts are compatable from the maxima to some 80's 280zxt?
No idea. I did try some rear springs from a 280z; correct size & fit but too soft for the maxima. The Maxima is probably heavier in the rear than the Z.

HowlerMonkey
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#8

Post by HowlerMonkey » 12 years ago

I don't remember if the flange on the axle stub has the same bolt pattern as the 280zx since I did it so long ago but I will be doing it on another car this weekend.

Using the R200 out of a 200sx turbo and the mount with 280zx turbo halfshafts yields the correct overall length but the only variable is you might have to also pull the flange off of the 280zx turbo donor car.

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kassim503
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#9

Post by kassim503 » 12 years ago

oooh, mabye i should try yanking the flanges. It dosent look easy, but ive got the rest of the day off :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D

I may try pulling the diff and moustache bar, hopefully itd be a r200, cause I can think about limited slip options, which would really be nice in the snow.
'83 maxima sedan, l24e, a/t, black

227K SOLD 6/7/2012

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