Parts Availability - G1 Maxima

General information about the first-generation Nissan Maxima in the US. What was the Datsun 810 became the luxury leader Maxima in the US in 1981.

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Carimbo
Posts: 459
Joined: 14 years ago

#31

Post by Carimbo » 13 years ago

Last month during our PNW cold snap, when I was troubleshooting my bad starter, the DVOM started giving some oddball readings. Really confused me. DVOM was stored in the trunk overnight (outside)(teens* F) and I was using it in 20's* F temps. On a hunch I replaced the DVOM battery, which cleared up the oddball readings. Too cold for the 9V DVOM battery to power the DVOM accurately!

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83_maxima
Posts: 423
Joined: 14 years ago
Location: Denver

#32

Post by 83_maxima » 13 years ago

asavage wrote:
83_maxima wrote:I cannot seem to get a reading at any of the GPs. Does not mean they don't have voltage because it will start. May be the voltmeter.
You can't suspect the voltmeter in one sentence, and vouch for it in the other!

If you aren't getting a voltage reading at the No. 1 GP, then either the voltmeter isn't working, the voltmeter isn't connected well or correctly, or there really isn't voltage there.

You choose ;)
Sorry Al. I think it may be as simple as a poor connection, being that the glow plugs are a little dirty.

I will get back out to it in the next couple of days, re-connect the auto glow and see what I've got at the plugs directly.

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83_maxima
Posts: 423
Joined: 14 years ago
Location: Denver

#33

Post by 83_maxima » 13 years ago

Pulled all of the GPs. Teseted and cleaned all 6 and bus. All 6 are good.

Bus is OK - broken at the end on GP #6. All but 1 of original thumb-screw washers replaced with nuts.

Voltage is good at all plugs thru bus. Will update when I do some more troubleshooting with the auto glow system connected.

Thinking of making one of Steve's copper bus bars...

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asavage
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#34

Post by asavage » 13 years ago

83_maxima wrote:Thinking of making one of Steve's copper bus bars...
Buy one instead: the Addy all-copper GP Bus, Rev B is about to hit the stores. See this post for details of the Rev A version and why you might not want to try to reinvent the wheel here.
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.

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83_maxima
Posts: 423
Joined: 14 years ago
Location: Denver

#35

Post by 83_maxima » 13 years ago

asavage wrote:
83_maxima wrote:Thinking of making one of Steve's copper bus bars...
Buy one instead: the Addy all-copper GP Bus, Rev B is about to hit the stores. See this post for details of the Rev A version and why you might not want to try to reinvent the wheel here.
Sign me up Steve!

I did a little more investigation into this today and have determined that the GP bypass was done in response to a couple of issues...

1) I pulled each GP and tested them with a 12V battery, each tested good, but took a full 7 seconds to glow red. Plugs are all Champion.

2) The original #1 relay is no good. I used it's signal wire in conjunction with the aftermarket relay to test the system. I get (at the plugs):

-Voltage increases from 5.4- 6.8v in 10 seconds of fast glow with TS connected
-20 sec wait time before ignition can be turned off and on again to engage relay

-Voltage increases from 4.2-7v in 13 seconds of fast glow with the TS disconnected
- 60 sec wait time until the relay will re-activate

My conclusion is that in addition to the #1 relay being bad, the temp sensor is probably also bad (all tests performed on cold engine, 40' ambient) and the GPC is just not glowing the plugs long enough. On a cold morning, without the engine plugged in, it takes 3 or 4 27 second cycles to start the car with the GP bypass relay.

I would have expected the GPC to fast glow for 20-30 seconds when cold (if all components were funtioning correctly). At 10 seconds, the plugs have only been glowing for 3, after waiting 20 seconds, the chamber is already cold again.

I am trying to figure out what is the best solution. Manual glow might be the best way to go, maybe trying to incorporate the light somehow.

I guess I should try to test the afterglow relay to see what it is doing as well.


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