Al Savage's 1981 720 SD22, "Orting Truck"

This is where we can post about our rigs, specs, ongoing plans, etc., links to pics.

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plenzen
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Location:Cochrane Alberta Canada

#46

Post by plenzen » 13 years ago

You were right about the mirror. I know you cant pull on a damper and I read what I had typed and saw that I left out the part about the groove (dumb ass that I am) , I was hoping to turn the feet on the puller around and grab it from the groove cut on the inside of the damper but it is not deep enough, in fact, now that I have looked at it with a mirror and light etc. I am not even that certain that it is not the edge of the washer that I was looking at and not a groove at all. The flange of the nut takes up the entire inside. Here’s hoping there are tapped holes under the washer or flange or whatever it is that is there.
Retired Pauly
Problem with being retired is that you never get a day off.
1987 D21-J SD25 KC
KJLGD21FN

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asavage
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#47

Post by asavage » 13 years ago

Better pics of the '82 w/AC:

Image Image Image

This has no damper, as can be seen. It has four holes equally spaced about though. I wonder if round bar could be used here?
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.

plenzen
Posts:869
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Location:Cochrane Alberta Canada

#48

Post by plenzen » 13 years ago

Had another look at your photos and still have not tackled mine yet. I wonder if I can get a bearing puller between the front cover and the back of the damper :?: The 4 holes that are visible in the pic that you posted I also wonder if would you be able to put in a loop, or a thing that looks like the omega sign and get on the end with a slide hammer? Or if you can use a slide hammer with a hook on it over a steel rod put through two of the holes. Is the machined fit too tight for that, or you think that might work :?: :?: :?:

Paul
Retired Pauly
Problem with being retired is that you never get a day off.
1987 D21-J SD25 KC
KJLGD21FN

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asavage
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#49

Post by asavage » 13 years ago

A very large split brg puller might fit behind the damper and be able to grab the non-rubber-mounted portion. It'd have to be humongous though to have the puller's flanges also clear the OD of the damper, to attach the threaded rods.

I was thinking of sliding some round bar through the holes, but now I see that wouldn't work as a grab point either -- the RB could only be put through two holes, and then it would obscure the center, so nothing to push on. I wonder what Nissan had in mind.

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philip
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#50

Post by philip » 13 years ago

asavage wrote:I was thinking of sliding some round bar through the holes, but now I see that wouldn't work as a grab point either -- the RB could only be put through two holes, and then it would obscure the center, so nothing to push on. I wonder what Nissan had in mind.
Centrifuge exit for water. :wink:
-Philip
Passed 08May2008
My friend, you are missed . . .

1982 Datsun 720KC SD-22

"Im slow and I'm ahead of you"

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asavage
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#51

Post by asavage » 13 years ago

Crankshaft front nut is ~1-5/8" (41mm ?). On the "Vashon Truck" just now, I put a 4' pipe (floor jack handle) on a 3/4" ratchet and 1-5/8" socket to break the nut loose. I was aided having everything removed from the front of the engine, radiator out, and the crank locked by the broken rod. Even at that, I was pretty much hanging on the bar. That nut is tight.
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.

plenzen
Posts:869
Joined:13 years ago
Location:Cochrane Alberta Canada

#52

Post by plenzen » 13 years ago

I believe that my front seal will be allowed to live where it is for the next little while and I might buy a bottle ( or three or four) of the “miracle” cure stop leak stuff and see if that don’t help some. It aint pouring out of there now and as previously mentioned just flinging a few spots around on the splash guard under the engine. I do not have any three quarter drive stuff although I am pretty sure I can find some somewhere. The biggest problem would be locking the engine from turning and that might pose a bit of a challenge. I can take the starter out I guess and try and secure the flywheel some how, which, from what you say, will have considerable torque on it. Hmm? No other way around it from what you say. Engine out is defiantly the only way but a bit of an "exercise" to repair a seal.

Paul
Retired Pauly
Problem with being retired is that you never get a day off.
1987 D21-J SD25 KC
KJLGD21FN

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philip
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Location:Southern California, USA

#53

Post by philip » 13 years ago

plenzen wrote:SNIP... The biggest problem would be locking the engine from turning and that might pose a bit of a challenge. I can take the starter out I guess and try and secure the flywheel some how, which, from what you say, will have considerable torque on it. Hmm? ...SNIP

Paul
Is mentioned in your FSM. (Yes, this is a view on the gasoline engine but it still works)

Image

Image :wink:
-Philip
Passed 08May2008
My friend, you are missed . . .

1982 Datsun 720KC SD-22

"Im slow and I'm ahead of you"

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asavage
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#54

Post by asavage » 13 years ago

Unfortunately, as I've found, many of Nissan's special tools are NLA.

Off the top of my head, the best thing I can come up with to hold the crank steady whilst applying that much torque to the front nut, is to use some flatbar (1/4 x 4" x 4') that can be fastened to the companion flange instead of the rear driveshaft. Remove the rear driveshaft (leaving the carrier brg), use the rear driveshaft's companion flange as a template to locate and through drill four holes near one end of the flatbar. Bolt this plate on in place of the rear driveshaft. It can be positioned to either the left or right, but if to the left, provide some cribbing to hold it off the ground plus some blocks of wood etc. to protect the cab as it swings up.

[Placing FB to the left would be less stressful on the trans' rear mount: it will be compressed, which it can handle better than being stretched.]

Put trans in fourth gear. Rent the socket/breaker (or ratchet) and pipe extension.

A chunk of FB like that would run me probably $25-30 here. I bought some 3/8" x 4" recently for Dad's genset. It's a stock size. You could use 1/4" x 3" FB, but it might tend to deflect. 3/8" would probably be overkill but if you could use it for something else later, 3/8" x 4" is an option.
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.

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philip
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Location:Southern California, USA

#55

Post by philip » 13 years ago

asavage wrote:Unfortunately, as I've found, many of Nissan's special tools are NLA..
Image
US$44


Image
US$109


Either of these may well do the job ...after some machining.

Oh ... how about these?

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-71189-CA ... B00023T9MU

http://www.mooreparts.com/AC000111.html ... p=AC000111
-Philip
Passed 08May2008
My friend, you are missed . . .

1982 Datsun 720KC SD-22

"Im slow and I'm ahead of you"

plenzen
Posts:869
Joined:13 years ago
Location:Cochrane Alberta Canada

#56

Post by plenzen » 13 years ago

Where do you find this stuff?? :?: I gotta start looking at more pages in the FSM other than just SD25 things. After you showed it, I went and found it in mine.
How about an old starter pinion welded to a piece of quater flat bar and then bolted to where the starter bolts to? Better be a good weld or I am fishing with a magnet. Thanks for the ideas and the links to stuff. :D :D
Retired Pauly
Problem with being retired is that you never get a day off.
1987 D21-J SD25 KC
KJLGD21FN

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asavage
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#57

Post by asavage » 13 years ago

At those prices (and sure to need modification after buying), I'll stick with the 4' chunk of 1/4" x 4" FB and drilling four holes. When I'm done, I can use the "tool" for other things too ;)

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