Air Conditioner Sheave Walking Off the Crankshaft Damper

Discuss (and cuss) the Nissan LD-series OHC Six diesel engine, popularly available in the US in 1981-83 Datsun/Nissan Maxima Sedans & Wagons.

Moderators: plenzen, goglio704, glenlloyd, Nissan_Ranger

User avatar
asavage
Site Admin
Posts: 5333
Joined: 14 years ago
Location: Duvall, Wash.
Contact:

#16

Post by asavage » 12 years ago

You can send him here.

(click on any image for larger)
Image Image Image Image Image Image

Carimbo
Posts: 459
Joined: 14 years ago

#17

Post by Carimbo » 12 years ago

Thanks, Al. Looks to me like they are touching?

User avatar
asavage
Site Admin
Posts: 5333
Joined: 14 years ago
Location: Duvall, Wash.
Contact:

#18

Post by asavage » 12 years ago

No, they can't touch, because the A/C sheave moves slightly in operation because it's on "rubber".

Because the adjacent surfaces are not flat (so they cannot be parallel), direct measurement would be tough. My micrometer eyes say .030-.045" is about where that one is. I did not lean on it to see if it, too, is loose though.

Guessing, I'd say that .030"+ would be correct. Just enough so the sheave does not overhang the hub area, but enough so that natural movement of the A/C sheave does not rub on the fixed sheave.
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.

Carimbo
Posts: 459
Joined: 14 years ago

#19

Post by Carimbo » 11 years ago

Received the rebuilt damper yesterday (looks good) and want to install it tonight. Which loctite for these screws-- crank damper to crank hub.

User avatar
asavage
Site Admin
Posts: 5333
Joined: 14 years ago
Location: Duvall, Wash.
Contact:

#20

Post by asavage » 11 years ago

Opinions vary. I use Blue. They need to be tight, as tight as you can make a 6mm wrench do anyway. If you're using a socket drive on a ratchet, not quite as much care is needed (the socket style can and often do use a better grade of steel than a Allen wrench).

Got mine, too. Took pics, but probably won't post tonight. Very busy next few days, through next Tues.

Carimbo
Posts: 459
Joined: 14 years ago

#21

Post by Carimbo » 11 years ago

Blue, thanks, that's what I picked up at the FLAPS. Dale did good work on the dampers, didn't he? Lifetime guarantee.

My 3/8" socket 6mm hex is S-K brand new, sharp edges, feel confident that I can really reef on the screws.

User avatar
asavage
Site Admin
Posts: 5333
Joined: 14 years ago
Location: Duvall, Wash.
Contact:

#22

Post by asavage » 11 years ago

Looks pretty good. I think I would have appreciated maybe a sandblast job on the stuff before paint was applied. The last pic is a close-up of a section of the vulcanizing after I scraped off the spray paint. That section represents about 1/2", for scale.

It does not look like it's going to come apart for a good, long time. I'll be interested to see what the runout is after mounting it to the crankshaft. Do you have a way to measure runout? I may have an opportunity soon to check this one out on a crank.

For others: Carimbo & I received 5% off for having two of the same type balancer rebuilt at the same time. My invoice shows $103 including shipping back to me. Add shipping to Salem, Ore. and you have my true cost. I consider it to be a very good price. However, the result is not a "show piece", but is a functional repair. I was expecting it to be a bit prettier. The nicks shown on this one were on my unit when I sent it to Dale Mfg. and are not a reflection of their work (it was a JY balancer that a crank pirate pried off).

(click on any image for larger)
Image Image Image Image
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.

Carimbo
Posts: 459
Joined: 14 years ago

#23

Post by Carimbo » 11 years ago

Yes, looks like the prep/paint job was rushed.

Installed the new damper. Off-idle drone/vibration is still there, but A/C compressor now runs quiet w/o the clatter from before. Funny, I use the A/C more in the winter than the summer. Defogs the windshield better than anything else. Guess I have to degrease the old tranny mount and swap it back in to see if that is the cause of the vibrations.

A little tricky to get the damper aligned correctly to where the screw holes were in the correct position but a couple of tries got it. Was able to torque them down tight using the socket bit on a 3/8 ratchet and a 27mm socket holding the crank hub holddown nut.

Found my spare PS idler pulley and replaced the cracked/brazed A/C idler. PS idler was slightly thicker and was not able to use the lockwasher-- there would not be enough threads left on its mounting axle stub.

This car has the most tortuous belt remove/install process I have ever seen. Really need to remove fan/clutch/hub do do any.

TIP: Damper mounting to the crank hub was easier after cleaning the paint off the damper's hub mounting radius area w/ steel wool and laying that side on a hotplate, heating it up to ~200°F.

rlaggren
Posts: 541
Joined: 12 years ago
Location: San Francisco

#24

Post by rlaggren » 11 years ago

Off-idle drone/vibration is still there,
I have a drone that I think is there all the time but doesn't manifest except at off-idle and high speeds. Looking at the intake across the radiator (all original) or the fan (maybe clutch doesn't release fully).

Rufus
82 Maxima wagon

Carimbo
Posts: 459
Joined: 14 years ago

#25

Post by Carimbo » 11 years ago

Carimbo wrote:Off-idle drone/vibration is still there...
Gone now, it went away when I replaced the new trans. mount w/ the old one.

Major noise the failed crank damper was making was the clatter when the A/C was operating. Sounded like a wasted bearing in the A/C compressor or clutch but I couldn't zero in on the location when probing around the A/C compressor w/ the mechanic's stethoscope. It was a puzzler.

Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest