Regarding the timing belt, I had planned to replace it just for good measure but upon inspection it looks like it is in good shape, heres a picture. Still would like to get a replacement if someone knows where I can get one in the US.
do a search under LD20II in this forum-you have to count the teeth as there is 2 different teeth count used on japanese sold engines.there is no way of knowing what spec you have even with the vin number.
The flywheel looks to weigh about 50#, we typically run lightened flywheels in our applications,
the LD20II has a massive heavy flywheel with a very small clutch disc,it uses the type that the plate looks like its fitted in reverse inside the flywheel.i modified the crank to use the older LD20T flywheel thats similar to the LD28/L20B.you could if needed mofify the flywheel center but i cut the rear flange with a hacksaw and hand filled flat in the car.not a good idea.
i would not go fitting a very light wheel as this idea is used in aplications to improve excelleration/decell[responce] but LD20IIT is for aplications of constant running,these engines are not suited to short trips and will use lots of fuel racing at traffic lights.
braking cranks is often due to missmatch of clutch disc to flywheel wieght,causing crank whip.
What is the thing next to the EGR valve? I assume some kind of pop off valve,
emergency relief valve-with gasoline its double the normal boost pressure.
works the same as a radiator cap and when it releives you get black oil stains.with a large dia engine pipe you can get these sitting on overboost.
like to know what the stock boost pressure is typically and what is the max boost possible based on the stock enrichment circuit?
waiste gate is set for 0.015 inch travell @ 3/4 bar.and recomended not to test above 1 bar[14PSI] mine sat on 18psi on hills when hot with auto.
ceramic turbo dont like these high pressures and you find on van engines it will have an old style overkill unit to delay the point of achieving max boost.mine has an old garret-air research.
