This is The Bomb ... with Turbo!

SD diesels were widely available in the US in the 1981-86 Datsun/Nissan 720 pickups, and in Canada through '87 in the D21 pickup.

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Knucklehead
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#91

Post by Knucklehead » 13 years ago

zen wrote:With throttle body in-front of turbo....so you're not worried about pulling oil in from turbo bearings on part throttle???
Yea, it pulls some oil in, but I ran it that way for years. It's not the best, but it's better than after the turbo.

Been hauling stuff everywhere with it (got it running just in time!) and getting my house ready to sell. Soon I'll have some time and money to fool around some more and do some dyno testing.
'82 standard cab 3 axle SD22 turbo
'89 int'l 9700 Cummins 444 (855 ci)
'29 HD FD export model

zen
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#92

Post by zen » 13 years ago

let us know the results...

MY NITROS turns up next week...so time allowing on goes the propane and nitros kit...

(nitros will only be injected at full throttle in conjection with start/stop/run lever being moved to start..atleast thats the idea..am assuming here it will inject more fuel at full throttle..if not plan b..)
turbo it

(sd33t home turbo set up if anyone is interested..)

TheDieseliminator
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#93

Post by TheDieseliminator » 13 years ago

Knucklehead wrote:Soon I'll have some time and money to fool around some more and do some dyno testing.
Cool, the dyno results will be exciting to see. :D
1982 Datsun Maxima diesel wagon w/ 228k miles
*occasional daily driver*

1982 Datsun Maxima diesel sedan w/ 252k miles
*now off the road as a parts car and sent to the yard :( *

weezledeezle
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#94

Post by weezledeezle » 13 years ago

ooooooohh.... Purty! That is one Beautiful piece of equipment!! I am building one myself, so thanks for the passive encouragement. I got an SD-22 ($100US) from a 720 that was nearly dead from rust and rubber issues- the little diesel runs sweet though- especially with the KKK Turbo I haxxed from an Audi 2.2l gasser (gift from a friend). I have begun haxxing on it to make it fit it into my 84 Jeep XJ Wagoneer 4x4- quite the pain in the $#%! - Clutch, engine mounts, bellhousing, and intake/exhaust systems all need major tweaking, as well as converting to a serpentine 5-row belt system (some people are just never happy). I will post pix as I can. Thanks to you all for the info, and the encouragement. I look forward to chatting with all of you.
I have also gathered a boatload of info on these little diesels, so if I can help, lemme know. Peace, and happy dieselling! :twisted:
84 Jeep XJ Wagoneer 4wd w/ Nissan SD22 and TC-05 turbo w/ 2-1/2" straight pipes to a BW T5 trans. Mods and Mods and Mods everywhere. 40 mpg avg and climbing.

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asavage
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#95

Post by asavage » 13 years ago

Knucklehead wrote:Japanese castings like the valve cover or thermostat upper tend to be high quality finish cast so usually you can get away without any grinding or sanding and go straight to using a buffing wheel starting with brown compound, green, white, blue. Rarely do I go beyond green.
I'm thinking of something like this:

Image Image

Too fast? Too weak?

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asavage
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#96

Post by asavage » 13 years ago

bacho wrote:Cool, I will try to find one, but none on ebay at the moment.
There is an SD33T IP on eBay now. Reserve is somewhere above $78, which is what I bid and is the most I'll pay.

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Knucklehead
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#97

Post by Knucklehead » 13 years ago

Al - The speed is good, 1/2 hp is minimum, double sided long arbor layout is perfect. They make a lot of black dust and lint. Best to mount it outside.
'82 standard cab 3 axle SD22 turbo
'89 int'l 9700 Cummins 444 (855 ci)
'29 HD FD export model

zen
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#98

Post by zen » 12 years ago

old thread..but mr galen...

time to rebuild a spare engine /blue printing/balancing it tuning it..(sd33)..(mine still going strong,15psi+gas injection)pistons etc ordered from australia (yes they have steel top ring carrier) so its all go when they arrive..

have you found any advantage in teflon coating??which bits did you do and why??

also details please of cam regrinding..lack of companies here willing to do diesel cams..

thanks
turbo it

(sd33t home turbo set up if anyone is interested..)

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Knucklehead
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#99

Post by Knucklehead » 12 years ago

I'm sorry for the delay Zen. A bit of drama has put me back on the road for a paycheck and I don't get here much anymore.

Mine is running well too.

I can't give you any numbers. That's too bad, because I am very fond of numbers. Or at least pictures. Haven't taken anything apart, so I can't tell you how it looks now. I coated the cam, lifters, crank bearings, skirts, and valve stems. And valve springs. I didn't want to have to worry about breaking in the fresh cam, so that was my main reason for doing that piece.

I had a place in CA do the cam regrinding. The machines they use are computer controlled and he had a program for the SD cam. Other than taking the time to program, there isn't anything unique about the cam that should scare any regrinder away. Do you want specs or an address?
'82 standard cab 3 axle SD22 turbo
'89 int'l 9700 Cummins 444 (855 ci)
'29 HD FD export model

macorti
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#100

Post by macorti » 11 years ago

Hi,

I know this's an old thread/post but I need some light on it.

I'm Marco from Costa Rica. I have a Nissan TD42 6 cil diesel engine, and as well as you guys this engine has a TB and inline pump.
Some weeks ago I send the car to a diesel lab in order to get it turboed. The lab ppl tried to get this done but it was unsuccessful. The main reason, the famous TB system. There was one big issue with it, the pressure that stays between the turbo and the TB. It causes the car to rev it self and go by it self, even if I leave the gas pedal it will go. The lab ppl decide to install a bov between the IC and the TB (I was using a top mount intercooler) it worked but not a 100%, so this guys decide to put the TB before the turbo and it worked but the big problem with this was that there was no power, for some reason the difference between having the car n/a and turboed was minimal. Because all of this I decide to undo all the installation and get the car as it was at the beginning.

To be honest with you guys it was very frustrating cause I waited for this mod like 4 years. But I'm still looking for some better options, and I think there are 2:

1) Get a VE pump.

2) Get an SD33T mech governor.

What do you guys think about this?

Thanks in advance for your advice and comments, they will be very much appreciate.

Regards
Marco
Macorti TD42

Tracteur Tom
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#101

Post by Tracteur Tom » 11 years ago

Hi Marco,

Great to read your post here.

I've had another thought, is the diaphragm good in the vac governor ? This can cause all sorts of weird effects if its got a crack in it.

re the BOV, it would appear from your post that it - almost - solved the problem ? Is the BOV quick enough to respond to you dropping the accel pedal ? You may need to play with springs to get it to respond as needed.

There is also another thread just started up in the Nissan Patrol Aus forum re this problem and its got some good info in there.

cheers

Phil

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Knucklehead
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#102

Post by Knucklehead » 11 years ago

Marco,

The TB creates a pressure differential that exists regardless of what the pressure before the TB is. Do you think if somehow the atmospheric pressure were doubled our engines would malfunction the way yours is? One line goes from the side of the TB to the back side of the diaphragm. The other should go from the front side of the diaphragm to somewhere between the TB and the turbo. Where was it connected? I made the same mistake. A few times my vent hose has blown off and it happens again.

Having the TB before the turbo doesn't work very well.

Having a leaky diaphragm will allow the pump to think that the TB is more open than it really is and give too much fuel when the TB gives not enough air. In principle this is the same as having the vent hose wrong, but unless the hole is huge (how did you drive it before?) it will behave differently. I assume that when you start up everything is fine but when you step on it, it keeps revving. That is not a torn diaphragm.

The TB was bad engineering. It is a factory mistake. Even when it is WOT it makes quite a bit of restriction, which is why it doesn't work well in front of the turbo. If you put the vent hose in the proper place it will work much, much better, but it will work best if you can get rid of the TB.

Again, where was the vent hose connected?
'82 standard cab 3 axle SD22 turbo
'89 int'l 9700 Cummins 444 (855 ci)
'29 HD FD export model

macorti
Posts:16
Joined:11 years ago
Location:Costa rica

#103

Post by macorti » 11 years ago

Tracteur Tom wrote:Hi Marco,

Great to read your post here.

I've had another thought, is the diaphragm good in the vac governor ? This can cause all sorts of weird effects if its got a crack in it.

re the BOV, it would appear from your post that it - almost - solved the problem ? Is the BOV quick enough to respond to you dropping the accel pedal ? You may need to play with springs to get it to respond as needed.

There is also another thread just started up in the Nissan Patrol Aus forum re this problem and its got some good info in there.

cheers

Phil
Hey Phil,

Good to hear from you again. I think that the BOV is quick enough, cause I just push the pedal is starts to work and you can hear it, it's loud !!!
I was about to tell about the thread in Patrol4x4, it's about some guy call bobs or bob, he has an SD33 and he turboed and it seems to wrok just fine...
And yes the bov almost resolved the issue, but not a 100%, it remains dangerous to drive, cause the car keeps reving by it self.
The only thing that keeps me away from doing keep on working on this is the fact that I don't know if the oil coming from the turbo to the IC will hurt or damage something else.....What do you think?
Macorti TD42

macorti
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#104

Post by macorti » 11 years ago

Hi Knucklehead,

To be honest, I don't have any idea about the atmospheric pressure issue. Maybe it can be a cause, but to be honest I don't know. :?
Talking about the lines connection, right know I'm not sure cause the lab guys took everything off some weeks ago, and I don't remember exactly how they had them connected. I remembered that there's a line that goes to the air box and this line was unplugged cause it was not doing any difference. But the rear I can't remember where it was plugged.
And yes having the TB doesn't make a important difference and it worked bad.

I been driven my car and it goes just as normal as always it has before. I'm not sure about the torn diaphragm, if is turn will it be notice as n/a?

Which one is exactly the vent hose is the one use like a breather? "See pic below that's the one" ? If this is the one, I think that it was plugged into the air box.

I'm sorry some times I have to connect things in my brain cause I have to translate them or guide my self through pictures cause I'm not sure which part is the correct one, in other words, I'm learning a lot from you guys, so please be patient with me !!!

I wish you guys could guide me with pics in order for me to be able to create the correct path in my head and then try to get a turbo and do it again if it's worth.

Image
Macorti TD42

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Knucklehead
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#105

Post by Knucklehead » 11 years ago

If you look on page 4 (of 7) about halfway down the page, you will see two very clear pictures of the two lines going from the governor. The forward one goes into the underside of the black air box, It doesn't matter where on yours, as long as it is somewhere between the turbo and the TB. It MUST have boost! If it is disconnected, that is your problem. The lines are easy, those two are the only ones that are very important. If the vent line has boost as it should, when you close the throttle the extra pressure will PUSH the diaphragm back closed. A torn diaphragm is not the problem or it would never run normally N/A..

I was only speaking about atmospheric pressure hypothetically. (Supongamos que la presion del ambiente era doble, que seria diferente? Nada.)
'82 standard cab 3 axle SD22 turbo
'89 int'l 9700 Cummins 444 (855 ci)
'29 HD FD export model

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