NissanDiesel

glenlloyd · Joined: 28 Nov 2005 Posts: 633 Location: Des Moines, Iowa

Hey all
Finally, got a decent day and was able to repair the rear brakes, which obviously hadn't worked for some time.

Both of the rear adjusters were frozen and not doing what they were supposed to do. From my conversation with the original owner I learned that the rear brakes had never been replaced, and it showed. The right side had obviously worked longer than the left but neither was working when I bought the car.

I had to remove and clean the left rear wheel cylinder because of crud, but the bore looked good so I just reassembled it with the original components. Had I been thinking in advance I would have replaced both rear wheel cylinders just to be safe, but as it was I had only one afternoon before the weather was going to change.

What a difference this made in both braking ability and pedal travel. I noticed when I first got the car that the brake pedal was moving too far. After I found no rear braking ability I wondered if that didn't have something to do with it. Now it seems fine, and the fluid has been replaced too, all except for the front left caliper....which didn't want to bleed at all...but that can of worms I refused to open that night.

steve a

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97 Jetta TDI, 86 VW Golf D
79 Peugeot 504D, 89 Toyota 1 ton
94 Dodge B250 van, 81 VW Rabbit D truck

gir - won't the sploding hurt?
zim - silence!

asavage · Posted: Wed Mar 15, 2006 8:18 am Post subject:

Wagon rear brakes are unique.

_________________
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey.
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14-Jul-07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04-Sep-07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08

glenlloyd · Joined: 28 Nov 2005 Posts: 633 Location: Des Moines, Iowa

asavage · Posted: Wed Mar 15, 2006 2:05 pm Post subject:

My adjusters were completely frozen on my '82 Wagon too. Fortunately, the ratchet teeth weren't shot, so they were repairable.

_________________
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey.
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14-Jul-07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04-Sep-07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08

glenlloyd · Joined: 28 Nov 2005 Posts: 633 Location: Des Moines, Iowa

kassim503 · Posted: Wed Mar 15, 2006 3:08 pm Post subject:

glenlloyd · Joined: 28 Nov 2005 Posts: 633 Location: Des Moines, Iowa

asavage · Posted: Wed Mar 15, 2006 4:39 pm Post subject:

kassim503 · Posted: Wed Mar 15, 2006 7:13 pm Post subject:

My parking brake is stuck to the point where u cant pull it past the first click. Yes, the sedans have discs so i really dont need the parking brake because there really isnt anything to adjust.

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'83 maxima sedan, l24e, a/t, black

227K

rlaggren · Joined: 03 May 2007 Posts: 362 Location: San Francisco

I got the car from Steve 2 years ago and looked at the rear brakes this week. They apparently weren't betting much wear and the driver side adjust was frozen. The passenger side adjuster was moveable but it had been repaired with a round-head screw in place of a large cast nut; apparently the threaded stud with the nut (if it _was_ a nut - see below) had broken off.

For those working on the rears, note:

- when adjusting the brakes through the hole in the backing plate, moving the splines DOWN retracts the brakes
- 8mm bolts will almost certainly be needed to pop the drum off; screw them into the holes provided in the drum and they will force it off. But they probably won't spin on freely at first because the threads are dirty.
- The actuating elbow has a small plastic bumper on the outside of the backing plate. It's held on with a plastic push pin which just pulls out; if the head breaks off, you can push it out from the other side with a small nail or pin. A 6-32 x 1" socket head bolt fits perfectly; I used stainless steel with a lock nut.
- To get the adjuster off the backing plate I had to pull it apart, pulling the fork toward the front of the car; this left the adjusting threads and they were skinny enough to get past the hub easily. Reinstall in reverse order.
- Reinstalling the shoes, put the springs on first (per manual), then install the front shoe fully (while the rear is jammed against the hub). Using a brake clip tool like the one pictured below helps to hold the thing in place while you install the hold down spring. Then you can lever the rear shoe into position and fit it over the tab on the end of the actuating elbow.

The plastic bumper with the replacement bolt.

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The adjuster assembled as it appeared on the brake. You can see the "nut" at the joint; this is the good one from the driver's side. The passenger side had a round head bolt here holding the joint together. The joint was slightly loose but it felt like there was still good metal on the bolt; since it appeared almost certain that I would twist the head off if I tried to remove it I left it until I know I have the time to drill it out or I get another one - preferably the latter. Sorry no pics of the sorry thing. If all the other to-its get done soon I may revisit this in a few days.

The adjuster as it came off the brake.

It was frozen straight; after cleaning it moves freely through a wide range. This is just to illustrate that it's free - when in use it only moves a fraction of an inch or so.

The return spring locations (for those who get confused, like me)

The brake clip tool.

That's about it for now.

Cheers, Rufus

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82 Maxima wagon