ka24e to sd25t 4x4 swap

SD diesels were widely available in the US in the 1981-86 Datsun/Nissan 720 pickups, and in Canada through '87 in the D21 pickup.

Moderators:plenzen, Nissan_Ranger

Post Reply
User avatar
asavage
Site Admin
Posts:5351
Joined:15 years ago
Location:Duvall, Wash.
Contact:

#46

Post by asavage » 7 years ago

A local fellow is in the process of converting his 1982 720 SD22 to SD25, and he's rebuilding the SD25.

He has found a North American supplier of Alfin* (ALumnium Ferrous INsert) piston/liner sets. We don't know yet if they're 3-ring or 5-ring, but we'll know that next week. He actually bought the whole kit to rebuild the engine: rod & main brgs, gaskets, etc.

[later edit: 3-ring, but not Alfin -- no insert]

Tiffin Parts LLC
235 Miami St
Tiffin, OH 44883‎
(419) 447-7527
800-219-6354
888-397-4794 Fax

They seem to be geared to the industrial market (forklifts), so 5-ring is likely. However, there's not a lot of downsides to 5-ring pistons/rings IMO.

Tiffin's website is infected with malware right now (I don't run Windoze, so malware doesn't seem to affect me) so you may want to get there via Google, as Google will warn you if Tiffin's site is still bad:

http://www.google.com/search?q=tiffin+parts
It's the first link.

Their direct page listing the Nissan engines is here, with links to PDFs with part Nos.:
http://www.tiffinparts.com/products-and ... uides.html

For example, for the SD25 it's
http://www.tiffinparts.com/documents/N13.pdf
TIFFIN PARTS, LLC Phone 1-800-219-6354 Fax 1-888-397-4794
REV 1/23/2012 
OTHER PARTS AVAILABLE 
N12                  

ENGINE KIT 250         (4 CYL. DIESEL)     SD22 NISSAN
 **********Piston & Ring Size Availability********** 
                  STD          .50mm
4 PISTONS     12010-J5310    12010-J5310.5
1 RING SET    12033-R8112    12036-R8112
4 LINERS      11012-76200

**********Bearing Size Availability********** 
                           STD       .25mm       .50mm       .75mm       1.00mm 
1 MAIN BRG SET          12207-37506 12209-37506 12210-37506 12211-37506 12212-37506 
1 ROD BRG SET           12117-Y5210 12117-Y5211 12117-Y5212 12117-Y5213 12117-Y5214 
1 CAM BRG. SET          13002-71204 
4 PIN BUSHINGS          12030-37500 
1 0/H GASKET SET        10101-L2526 
1 THRUST WASHER         12280-37525 SET 
1 FREEZE PLUGS FPK250 

[Part No. for all of the above ordered at once: EK250]


Valve kit Part No. VK250 
4 INTAKE VALVE    13201-Y5200 
4 EXHAUST VALVE   13202-Y5200 VK250 

Lifter set CK250
8 LIFTERS         13231-78201 CK250 

Other parts
1 VALVE SPRING    13203-T7200 
1 KEEPER          13208-Z5500 
1 HEAD GASKET     11044-V1700 
1 IDLE GEAR       13012-L1801 
1 F/CVR. GASKET   13520-10H00
Alfin:
From the web:
ALumnium Ferrous INsert PistonIt is a bi-metrallic piston, consisting of a body of aluminum alloy and a wear resistant cast iron inserted for the top grove. The top grove is fitted with a steel chrome in land ring. Which will give a enhanced piston life.
ALFIN is inserted within the ring grooves when casting. ALFIN is made of special austenitic cast iron. It is tightly bonded metallically to piston body and counteracts the wear in the top ring groove. ALFIN pistons are commonly used in diesel engines.
Austenitic means that (amongst other things) it's non-magnetic.
Last edited by asavage 7 years ago, edited 1 time in total.
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.

ehtrain
Posts:141
Joined:8 years ago
Location:regina, sk

#47

Post by ehtrain » 7 years ago

The more info the better! I will likely need a paper gasket soon if i can't get a couple set custom cut as I only want factory headgaskets.

Ok so I'm going to start posting pics for the turbo kit. I was actually surpised how well everything fit. The turbo seems to respond well and holds 5psi at speed in 4th and 5th on hwy which is kinda cool. I now have it from5-6psi adjusted to 8psi approx. The power doesn't seem to be much more but egt's dropped some more and boost is much more responsive due to increase waste gate pressure. still on stock fuel adjust, going to do a dyno pull soon !!!

here's some before turbo shots
Image
Image

here's a shot of my egt probe in the manifold and the shiny 2000F heat refection tape I covered the bottom of the intake manifold with to help prevent heat soak.
Image

here's the air box I made up from an old ammo can. Only thing I could find water tight easily. I put a big KNN airfilter inside with a silcone mesh waterproof sock as a last preventative. the box is 2.75in in/out
Image
Image

here's the god speed project turbo I bought off ebay. It's a plain journal bearing T3 oil cooled and internally gated. Nice and simple. I got a cheap oil restrictor and drain plate as well as an exhaust flange off ebay. The exhaust being v-band saved lots of headache making the exhaust downpipe/collector and was a major decision maker for me as well as the availability of flanges in any material type make this an easy at home project. I also picked up a host of 2in and 2.5 in v-band kits off ebay.
Image
Image
Image
Image

here's my nice table full of goodies waiting to go in :)
Image
Image
Image

ok so I cut back the exhaust under the firewall to give myself room for the v-band connection as its 1.25in thick with both flanges. I took the regular exhaust flange from another manifold and went to work.
Image

I cut back a 2" radius mandrel 2" pipe into a "J" pipe and tack the piece I cut off on top.
Image
Image

the flange is larger then a 2in pipe so I had to add a little piece in and stretch the pipe into place for welding.
Image
Image

the turbo has a 2.5" v-band exhaust housing and I have a 2" exhaust so I made an adapter. I made the downpipe from a 3" radius mandrel "J" pipe, According to my math even with turbo I could not limit the cfm of the 2in pipe ... if I do I guess bye bye muffler lol.
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image

Got the J-pipe and downpipe installed so I put and a heat reflection wrap around the electrical,oil drain, steering shaft, and anything else near by like brake booster vacuum line. I also Put a heavy duty heat reflection blanket over the starter.
Image


ok so that hard part is done. I got a stainless oil line made up locally to feed the thing and some nice hose for drain which I "t'd" into the alternator drain since the other block drain is sorta awkward below the motor mount

I made up some sheet metal heat shields for the brake master cyl. and throttlebody. I covered them and anything that was close to the turbo with the same 2000F heat tape. I also put the factory heat shield back on the exhaust to help with the turbo temps/spool and help prevent heat soak into the intake. I thought about heat wrap but decided against it as would likely cause rusting or cracks in the manifold or j-pipe.
Image

I got the largest thinnest intercooler I could find. Ironic it ended up being the cheapest also! It's a yonaka type 10 intercooler. It's very nice and well built. slightly heavy for my likes but oh well its a 500hp bar plate intercooler on a little diesel... can't expect everything... lol. the aluminum pipe kit is all 2" also a godspeed project kit from ebay. Majority of the silicone couplers are from Silicon intakes, their couplers are absolutely amazing quality.
Image
Image
Image

ehtrain
Posts:141
Joined:8 years ago
Location:regina, sk

#48

Post by ehtrain » 7 years ago

ok im gonna post all my ve bosch kiki injection pump info reference. everything is typed out on the same line as its printed on the pump

the current pump im using:

on the sticker:
16700 14G03
104740-4790

stamped in the body:
745 D045003
104640-4790
NP-VE4/10F2100RNP407

The spare pump body I have is:

on the sticker:
16700 14G03
104740-4790

stamped in the body:
647 C449249
104640-4790
NP-VE4/10F2100RNF407

User avatar
asavage
Site Admin
Posts:5351
Joined:15 years ago
Location:Duvall, Wash.
Contact:

#49

Post by asavage » 7 years ago

ehtrain wrote:on the sticker:
16700 14G03
That resembles a Nissan part No., but it's a couple digits off AFAICT.
NP-VE4/10F2100RNP407
According to this website, that decodes to:
  • Diesel Kiki manufacturer
  • VE-style (distributor)
  • 4-cylinder
  • 10mm pump plunger
  • Mechanical governor
  • 2100 RPM governor max (pump RPM, not engine RPM, so 4200 RPM crankshaft)
  • Clockwise rotation
  • NP407 = some kind of serial number
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.

ehtrain
Posts:141
Joined:8 years ago
Location:regina, sk

#50

Post by ehtrain » 7 years ago

ok well I have about 8-9,000kms on the truck now, it seems to be running good and the turbo hasn't missed a beat. So I finished up some other stuff and took some more pictures since its mostly done. unfortunately my oil pan developed a crack due to technique of welding my friend used. The pan has been out and repaired with a different method of welding which should not give me anymore problems. This also gave me a chance to peak at the cylinder liners which all appear to be evenly seated in the block still... which is absolutely good news.

Image
Image
Image
Image

after towing and some wheeling. the 2pc rear drive shaft really showed how punny it was for diesel and bigger tires bagging around under the truck. brand new hanger/steady bearing too haha
Image
Image

got a 1pc shaft made up locally after a bunch of crap finally found a machinist smart enough to convert a metric tubed drive shaft to an imperial one since nobody apparently does metric locally and my rear shaft is not staked. 380 bucks later and it hits nothing, didn't even cut the old bearing hanger mounts off.... why nissan did you waist your time with a more expensive 2pc shaft. this also seems to have corrected some of the low end torque issue due to the fact its not twisting the drive shaft around. It also greatly improved my towing and offroad handling/axel wrap
Image


heres some updated engine bay pics. hooked up my catch tube setup for the blow-by gases, made mounts for the intercooler and rearraged some of the piping abit for better clearance.
Image
Image

here are some injection pump body pictures from my spare injection pump.

Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image



ok so I'm going to be hooking up some extra gauges inside the truck soon. The turbo has brought me to wonder a few things watching my oil pressures. after long trips when oil temps would peak at idle while cooling turbo before shut down oil pressure drops to 12-14psi range until it idles for awhile. but if I'm casually driving around my idle pressure never goes below 16-18psi. So I'm curious as to what my oil temps are getting at to see an extra 2-4psi drop. unless the oil temps around town aren't actually hot temps.

ehtrain
Posts:141
Joined:8 years ago
Location:regina, sk

#51

Post by ehtrain » 7 years ago

ok so it's been awhile. got some info for you turbo'd guys if anyone is still paying attention to this thread.

though my own trial and error... how I got 10,000kms before this happened I don't understand haha.

took a trip with my camper decided to head toward border and about 2 hrs in pulled over to check stuff. to see oil seeping from my intake gasket? wtf can only mean the last roo dog gasket has been leaking this whole time... also explains the slight exhaust leak noise once in awhile and why I could not locate it.

so I let everything cool down and not sure what to think since I had just done a fresh oil change before leaving. oil level was still ok.

So I unhooked the bypass gas tube from preturbo and let it road draft. thinking that constant boost and higher oil temps might be sucking the oil vapor from the crank case out. Since most diesels don't recirculate bypass gas when turbo is present it would seen on industrial stuff I've seen anyway.

So I drove for another hour or so heading toward my destination and decide to check. yup something is definitely, wrong oil level has dropped and oil leak from manifold is visible again. Topped up the oil and decided to head home. 350km home used 1.5L of oil.

at first I was angry thinking the turbo seal was likely the issue. But I started thinking. I asked a couple friends with factory turbo setups. Yup not enough drainage! you can't joint the alternator drain and trubo drain. IT IS NOT ENOUGH!

likely the sd25 has a second block drain port by the motor mount. So I road tested with camper again for 2hr straight drive and no oil leaks... so pretty sure that fixed it. so for 1/8th feed line you NEED 1/2 drain on its own!

here's a couple pictures
this is how I tried it first because I didn't want my oil drain rubbing on the frame/motor mount
Image

this is how I have it routed now. as you can see there is a second drain port in the block. there is also a second oil feed port beside the alternator feed on the block... soo it's like nissan knew it needed turbo... lol
Image

yes I know your all asking what about the leaky intake gasket?

well I have ordered an oem gasket that im hopping is still in production. 2 days now an no phone call saying no go.. so fingers crossed. If I have been driving this long with leaking intake gasket and diesel makes very little vacuum(low manifold pressure for proper) so shouldn't leak much in when boost is leaking out haha. it would appear to be very slow though if motor burned 1.5L there was some drips only on the block. made some mess but not crazy.

I also tried hot pipe with turbo. noticed approx 150-250F increase in EGT on average, nothing got too crazy. BUT I noticed a big power curve change. starting say pulling my camper it worked a lot nicer feels more torquey. however on the top end the power loss is noticeable. part of this factor is to do with my large intercooler in why my bottom end doesnt feel so nice as hot pipe. So Im going to try and find or make a smaller intercooler that fits nicer and proper with same side inlets. so the 1100f under load or so hot pipe'd and hovered around 950f on highway. where as the intercooler under load was 1000f and would quickly drop to 800f.

also I should maybe address boost performance and surge levels since I have no BOV. with intercooler the turbo surged only a few times that i can hear through the snorkel. nothing a like a jap car would. and full boost seemed to average around 2900 rpms.

without intercooler there is less surge but still a minor amount. Max boost rpm seems to be about 2900 rpms also.

I believe this is largely due to the no throttle blade in a diesel forces the turbo to build back pressure again the valves. so naturally at lower rpms when the engine is accelerating its demanding more then turbo can produce at that exhaust volume. A smaller exhaust turbine would get boost levels up quicker. If I was to choose another turbo id want a larger compressor and a smaller turbine. this would likely solve majority of the boost level to rpms imbalance. I don't mind how mine operates but for a 4,000rpm red line there is only a short period where full boost is available.

a turbo like:
if they listed the turbine specs would be nice.....

http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant.mv ... _Code=T3T4

or

http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant.mv ... _Code=T3T4

or if wanted external wastegate this turbo would be the best I think

http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant.mv ... _Code=T3T4

PLEASE REMEMBER ALL SPEC I'M LISTING RELATING TO TURBO SPECS OF MINE ARE T3. EACH HOUSING HAS DIFFERENT CHARACTERISTICS. a t25/t28 housing would also be worth looking at as they have a tiny turbine housing compared to t3

however.... without a dyno this would be very hard to prove effective since the injection pump can't supplement fuel for boost... would earlier boost help more I would hope so... but who knows.

User avatar
asavage
Site Admin
Posts:5351
Joined:15 years ago
Location:Duvall, Wash.
Contact:

#52

Post by asavage » 7 years ago

Yup not enough drainage! you can't joint the alternator drain and trubo drain. IT IS NOT ENOUGH!
A common problem on add-on turbos.

I had (have?) a book on adding a turbo, it was published in the early 70's, and it stressed that the oil drain line must a) be above the oil level in the crankcase and b) be large. What comes out of the turbo's drain line is very aerated (whipped) and it takes a lot of line to drain it.
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.

ehtrain
Posts:141
Joined:8 years ago
Location:regina, sk

#53

Post by ehtrain » 6 years ago

ok so its been awhile since ive posted. In the fall the diesel started running funny again so I began to investigate.... AGAIN.... piss me off. anyway compression test revealed #1 cyl was 20psi low and engine would idle on 3 cyls until temps warmed up same as it did when the liner was cracked last year. I found that the valve lash on #1-3 cylinders were none existant on the intake valves. VERY concerning meaning that 3 intake valves somehow sunk further into the valve seat .014in in only 20,000kms. I've never seen that before on anything but worn out valves. I adjusted the valve lash and found my compression back where it needed to be and my running issue disappeared for a day or 2.

So these valves are roodogs again... so literally every single part I purchased from him has failed or caused issues. Never ever will I purchase anything but OEM for these diesels again. Be fussy with your parts people!!
good news is the tieken liners measured out perfect after some mileage and no signs of stress or damage to them. this only proves with the same guy and machine installing roodogs crap vs some real parts and no failure... imagine that...

so I spent a day at nissan collecting parts and spending more money because im stupid and want my truck to work haha. I was not able to find a new CSD. that is discontinued so I will be rigging up something new for that.

I ordered everything from nissan dealer locally minus the sleeves and wrist pin bushings everything is still available for the VE injected sd25. TRUST ME its not worth saving 800 bucks to buy aftermarket other parts. Nissan also still lists a complete cylinder head assembly part number and it is orderable. I paid 850 or so for head parts + machining it will be 1000-1100 probably. a whole head assembly right from factory was 1650.... the question is what is your time worth vs factory parts

new cam shaft - 13001-37509 -$464.28
Cam bearing - 13002-37501 -$23.92 (.std)
thrust bearing - 12280-37525 -$33.14 (.std)
rod bearing - 12117-y5211 -$75.84 (-.010/-.25mm)
main bearing - 12209-v1701 -$53.46 (-.010/-.25mm)
ring gear - 12312-37501 -$132.74
piston w/pin - 12010-t7205 -$397.00 (.std bore x height) (3 ring with alfin)
ring set - 12033-L2006 -$223.36 (.std)
lifter- 13231-78201 -$88.08
intake valve - 13201-L2000 -$79.44
exhaust valve - 13202-L2000 -$118.24
valve spring - 13203-T7200 -$36.48
rocker cover gasket - 13270-R8810 -$29.99
valve seat - 11098-L2000 -$69.76 (intake i think)
valve seat - 11099-L2000 -$77.64 (exhaust i think)
Intake/exhaust gasket - 14035-10G00 -$25.86
head gasket (mulit-layer metal) - 11044-09W01 -$98.63
valve stem seal - 13207-V1700 -$40.80
valve guide - 13211-V1700 -$195.36
push rod guide/protector - 11052-76203
thermostat - 21200-64w01 -$21.96

all prices above are in CAD and the total cost of all the parts. many parts are individually listed numbers so your price may be different.

new cylinder liners are available from tieken and seem to do ok.
wrist pin bushings I'm getting the machinist to find if possible

I can order these parts for anyone if they cannot order them themselves.

I have all the numbers for the hoses and thermostat etc also. ill see if i can sort out what number is what later


what also has my interest is the td27t injection pump part#s
line 1: 16700-80g09
line 2: 104740-7132

it shares some same numbers with my injection pump and according to the break down on that ve pump it also has a tapered mounting shaft and 3 bolt mounting plate. I wonder if the td27t pump wont fit into the sd25 with some metering adjustments or maybe switching the top hat would work also. Thus providing properly boosted sd25,sd23 or sd22 with some work and expenses
Last edited by ehtrain 6 years ago, edited 2 times in total.

elminero67
Posts:143
Joined:10 years ago

#54

Post by elminero67 » 6 years ago

Nice write up and nicer truck, thanks for sharing. As you can see there isn't always as much feedback from us lurkers as there should be, but I'm closely following your successes/setbacks and appreciate you taking the time to share.

User avatar
asavage
Site Admin
Posts:5351
Joined:15 years ago
Location:Duvall, Wash.
Contact:

Re: ka24e to sd25t 4x4 swap

#55

Post by asavage » 6 years ago

Thanks for posting all those part Nos. & prices.
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.

KCCats
Posts:5
Joined:7 years ago
Location:North Central Ill

Re: ka24e to sd25t 4x4 swap

#56

Post by KCCats » 6 years ago

So what was your total cost?
I have a SD22 and I want to put a turbo on it!

ehtrain
Posts:141
Joined:8 years ago
Location:regina, sk

Re: ka24e to sd25t 4x4 swap

#57

Post by ehtrain » 6 years ago

well for the engine parts from nissan run about 1500-2500 + you need to machine parts so dont be surprised when you see 3500-4g at the end of your bill if your doing it yourself. if your motor is in good condition and you want to freshen the motor you may only need rings,sleeves, valve job and new seals.

if your just putting a turbo on. id say allow yourself 1000-1500 by time you get turbo, get oil/coolant lines made up, exhaust, flanges etc. being that you don't have to mess with the fuel much like a gas that's where you save the cash not needing larger injectors and new programming for ecu. if your willing to do all the work like I have it will save you considerable amount. However a tech can only be as good as his tools sometimes.

this is the turbo im looking to put on next. keep in mind im only looking for 10-14psi MAX so tiny isnt as big of an issue vs boost response. this turbo will require a special made dump pipe housing to be made v-band exhaust. Otherwise you will end up needing to create your own exhaust collector from a precut flange that will allow your exhaust to work easy.
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Nissan-RB20-RB25 ... 5b&vxp=mtr

i do not have any experience with the inline injection pump and this is entirely speculation. however I would leave the throttle blade where it is currently on the intake and plumb a blow off valve in to allow air dump on decel same as a gas engine would. to allow the fastest return to zero fuel as possible. being that it is diesel and low "vacuum" tuning a blow off valve may be difficult but may allow the injection pump diaphram to keep the closest to correct reading as possible. I believe the slight second where you would have residual intake pressure on decel (compressor surge) the injection pump diaphram would take longer to return to zero. as long as the pre throttle vent tube is moved pre turbo this should give the most stock like performance without modifying the injection pump for manual control. however I have done some studying of the factory inline IP and it appears there is a counter weight assembly that advances the throttle as the throttle "vacuum" is present or metering both halves of the diaphram. Now it would seem possible that the advance system (in the cup directly below the diaphram) could be removed which should allow free control of the fuel rake. but this also would result in uncontrolled fuel. so it would seem to need a return spring assembly installed behind where the diaphram is normally. I cannot tell if the advance weight on the injection pump drive gear alters the flywheight in the back of the pump on the same shaft. removing one advance could cause the the other to loose balancing or alter advance control or vice versa

waynosworld
Posts:519
Joined:7 years ago
Location:Vancouver Washington USA

Re: ka24e to sd25t 4x4 swap

#58

Post by waynosworld » 6 years ago

Did you see how Larry did what you are talking about when he turbocharged his inline SD25 diesel engine in his Volvo, he left the throttle blade stock, what he did was put a "tee" in the throttle control line and piped it to a vacuum controlled blow off valve, so when he let off the pedal it created vacuum in that line which pulled back the diaphragm to idle, and it also dumped everything between the throttle blade and the turbo, it worked really good, but when he installed the propane injection, he removed that BOV because he didn't want propane dumping into the engine compartment.
I am going to have to look real close how he has it piped now, there is still a "tee", but it looks to be in the vent line now, so when he let off the pedal, it senses a vacuum between the turbo and air filter, which turns off the propane injection, it's kinda a complicated setup with a lot of one of a kind things now.
I know the voices are not real,
but they have some really good ideas.

ehtrain
Posts:141
Joined:8 years ago
Location:regina, sk

Re: ka24e to sd25t 4x4 swap

#59

Post by ehtrain » 6 years ago

waynosworld wrote:Did you see how Larry did what you are talking about when he turbocharged his inline SD25 diesel engine in his Volvo, he left the throttle blade stock, what he did was put a "tee" in the throttle control line and piped it to a vacuum controlled blow off valve, so when he let off the pedal it created vacuum in that line which pulled back the diaphragm to idle, and it also dumped everything between the throttle blade and the turbo, it worked really good, but when he installed the propane injection, he removed that BOV because he didn't want propane dumping into the engine compartment.
I have read the page about propane injection however I have not seen any build pictures. but "T" ing into the the throttle pedal vacuum would seem very logical and being in the throttle blade area would have vacuum(low pressure) because its designed for it.
waynosworld wrote: I am going to have to look real close how he has it piped now, there is still a "tee", but it looks to be in the vent line now, so when he let off the pedal, it senses a vacuum between the turbo and air filter, which turns off the propane injection, it's kinda a complicated setup with a lot of one of a kind things now.
that would seem rather simple? as port vacuum is only high when turbo speeds would be up (same as open throttle in gas) is the only time the propane vapourizer would get vacuum signal pre turbo. I guess it depends on where he is getting vacuum signal for the vapourizer regulator. (gas is idle = high post throttle vacuum, WOT = low manifold vaccum and high pre throttle vacuum which is port) off throttle if you dont want propane in the engine bay. recirculate the blow off valve? however im not sure if the residuel propane in the system would allow the engine to decel or if it would slowly decel until propane is all gone. and granted an intercooler etc would magnify this.

maybe the more ideal thing is find a better vapourizer that has 7+psi or adjustable supply pressure off a newer propane system with electronic injection. this way you could inject the propane right into the manifold under the throttle body with a fogger nozzle etc

waynosworld
Posts:519
Joined:7 years ago
Location:Vancouver Washington USA

Re: ka24e to sd25t 4x4 swap

#60

Post by waynosworld » 6 years ago

ehtrain wrote:
waynosworld wrote:Did you see how Larry did what you are talking about when he turbocharged his inline SD25 diesel engine in his Volvo, he left the throttle blade stock, what he did was put a "tee" in the throttle control line and piped it to a vacuum controlled blow off valve, so when he let off the pedal it created vacuum in that line which pulled back the diaphragm to idle, and it also dumped everything between the throttle blade and the turbo, it worked really good, but when he installed the propane injection, he removed that BOV because he didn't want propane dumping into the engine compartment.
I have read the page about propane injection however I have not seen any build pictures. but "T" ing into the the throttle pedal vacuum would seem very logical and being in the throttle blade area would have vacuum(low pressure) because its designed for it.
waynosworld wrote: I am going to have to look real close how he has it piped now, there is still a "tee", but it looks to be in the vent line now, so when he let off the pedal, it senses a vacuum between the turbo and air filter, which turns off the propane injection, it's kinda a complicated setup with a lot of one of a kind things now.
that would seem rather simple? as port vacuum is only high when turbo speeds would be up (same as open throttle in gas) is the only time the propane vapourizer would get vacuum signal pre turbo. I guess it depends on where he is getting vacuum signal for the vapourizer regulator. (gas is idle = high post throttle vacuum, WOT = low manifold vaccum and high pre throttle vacuum which is port) off throttle if you dont want propane in the engine bay. recirculate the blow off valve? however im not sure if the residuel propane in the system would allow the engine to decel or if it would slowly decel until propane is all gone. and granted an intercooler etc would magnify this.

maybe the more ideal thing is find a better vapourizer that has 7+psi or adjustable supply pressure off a newer propane system with electronic injection. this way you could inject the propane right into the manifold under the throttle body with a fogger nozzle etc

I said one thing wrong in the post I made, the propane injects when it senses a vacuum between the air filter and turbocharger inlet, when there is no vacuum, it quits injecting propane, so when under compression there is no vacuum in that area.
Larry modified the throttle blade when he added the propane injection, and dropped the BOV, I asked him the same question, why did he not recirculate it back into the air filter, I did not get an answer, but I do remember him saying the day he delivered the vehicle that one could add to much propane, and not to monkey with it, so I assume that it is the reason why the BOV was just removed.
I thought the setup before the propane injection was a work of art, I had seen no one do it that way before, but he said it ran cooler with the propane, and it ran cleaner also, I can tell you this, when the propane is on, diesel smell is at a minimum, when it is off, it smells like the normal smell I am used to.
I know the voices are not real,
but they have some really good ideas.

Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 5 guests