random turning off

General information about the first-generation Nissan Maxima in the US. What was the Datsun 810 became the luxury leader Maxima in the US in 1981.

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kassim503
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#16

Post by kassim503 » 14 years ago

can the ecu's for the 280z and 260z be interchangable with the maxi's l24e?
'83 maxima sedan, l24e, a/t, black

227K SOLD 6/7/2012

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kassim503
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#17

Post by kassim503 » 14 years ago

Well the ups man should bring over a new ecu at 3:30 today, so i pulled the old one and out of curiosity i looked at it, no bad smells and everything was shiny and nice, i dont really think its the ecu's fault.

Are there any things that could tell the ecu to shut the injectors off? Not just make it run crappy, like what happens when you disconect the 02 sensor or the AFM or the TPS or the cyl head temp sensor, like something that would turn the car off completley
'83 maxima sedan, l24e, a/t, black

227K SOLD 6/7/2012

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kassim503
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#18

Post by kassim503 » 14 years ago

YESSSSSSS! :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

she runs :lol: :lol: :lol:
:D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D

There is a connector under the passenger seat, right next to the ecu, that wasnt listed in the FSM, it powers the fuel pump and some other stuff that has to do with the efi. Hole in floor, water splashed up, got connector all bad.


Gotta fix that hole, rivets and a piece of steel sound good?
'83 maxima sedan, l24e, a/t, black

227K SOLD 6/7/2012

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kassim503
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#19

Post by kassim503 » 14 years ago

btw the l28 ecu's dont work for the l24e
'83 maxima sedan, l24e, a/t, black

227K SOLD 6/7/2012

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83_maxima
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#20

Post by 83_maxima » 14 years ago

HowlerMonkey says they do. He is using a set (AFM and ECU) from an L28E for his turbo max with L24E.

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kassim503
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#21

Post by kassim503 » 14 years ago

For what year is the set for? mabye i have the pre 1978 ecu, i had to pry out a piece of plastic to make my 35 pin connector fit in the l28 ecu
'83 maxima sedan, l24e, a/t, black

227K SOLD 6/7/2012

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kassim503
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#22

Post by kassim503 » 14 years ago

Not fixed!

went out to start it today, started, got down the road, stalled, grrrrreat

I pulled the passenger seat and i serviced almost all the connectors i could find, mabye there are more under the passenger floor, i think im going to cut the carpet and clean thsoe up as well, im near the problem though, when i grab the harness and yank on it the engine would turn off, but not with the same symptoms. When i yank on it the injectors would turn off, but the fuel pump wouldnt, and usually the injectors and the pump turns off at once. Anybody have a extra ecu that i could borrow for testing? ill pay shipping both ways

Also anybody have the EFI wiring harness for a gasser? Ill buy it off you


Whats the chances of bad wiring? my windsheild leaked around tehre for some time and i really never bothererd to fix it until a month ago
'83 maxima sedan, l24e, a/t, black

227K SOLD 6/7/2012

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asavage
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#23

Post by asavage » 14 years ago

I checked, and I thought I had a gasser ECU but I don't. I know I began to pull it from the '83 Carimbo & I scrapped, but I guess I didn't actually put it in my "go home" box.

I have to say that I don't think the ECU is your car's problem though.
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.

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kassim503
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#24

Post by kassim503 » 14 years ago

the problem really dosent sound like a ecu problem, but all the wires are making good connections, so its either the ecu or some kind of component failure, like the AFM, but if the AFM had a problem the car wouldnt turn the fuel pump off. Also I found this on ebay click here[gotopost=] I might buy this just as a tool to keep around, and it might tell me if I had anything wrong through the lights on top, not too sure though never used anything liek that before. Also I found this, this tool is featured in the FSM for ecu testing ebay Im not too sure if this would actually help me with this problem but whatever.[/gotopost]
'83 maxima sedan, l24e, a/t, black

227K SOLD 6/7/2012

Carimbo
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#25

Post by Carimbo » 14 years ago

asavage wrote:I checked, and I thought I had a gasser ECU but I don't. I know I began to pull it from the '83 Carimbo & I scrapped, but I guess I didn't actually put it in my "go home" box.
I don't have it either.

If you are able to induce the failure by pulling on the wiring that's where you should concentrate-- the wiring itself or related connectors. Alternately you can substitute some temporary (sound) wiring along the same run to help isolate the failure location.

Not a true diagnosis but from what people are reporting, the wiring in these cars is predictably more suspect than the electronic devices themselves, with cold solder joints a distant second.

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kassim503
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#26

Post by kassim503 » 14 years ago

Oh, I failed to update with that pulling on the wiring thing, it really just shut down while i was pulling on it, but later i tried the same thing, even moving it side to side and doing all that stuff to it and it ran strong. I also jumped the connection from the battery to the ecu, and in another time i jumped the connection from the battery to the Fuel pump, yielded the same results. The only thing I didnt attempt yet is jumping the injector power, i feel like im going to mess up and cook them (there are 6 chances to mess up).

Not driving around is starting to show some of its good points, my public transportation skills have vastly improved, and ive been saving something like 200-250 a week on gas! Thats alot of money! :) :)
'83 maxima sedan, l24e, a/t, black

227K SOLD 6/7/2012

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kassim503
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#27

Post by kassim503 » 14 years ago

I was tinkering on the datsun, trying to make it run nice (actually ran all day today no problems, i know my luck will run out 2mm), also i finally got around to doing some work on my race car, trying to get that to run, get it ready for race, whatever.

Race car is a 1978 bmw 745i (the german made one) got a I-6 3.2 liter, but the fuel system is whats important- its a bosch L-jetronic. Datsuns got the bosch L-jetronic too! WOW! what luck.
I gotta find the ecu from that and try it out, mabye they are wired up the same :) I might not demo/race the car, the car could be a pretty good source of spare parts.
'83 maxima sedan, l24e, a/t, black

227K SOLD 6/7/2012

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kassim503
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#28

Post by kassim503 » 14 years ago

Bmw ecu dont fit - pin setup is different, connector is the same tho
'83 maxima sedan, l24e, a/t, black

227K SOLD 6/7/2012

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kassim503
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#29

Post by kassim503 » 14 years ago

New thought, problem might not be ecu related- it might be from hte coil trigger, according to the fsm the coils neg post is connected to the ecu, and the way you test this is by putting a analong voltometer on the end of pin 18 and see if it jumps, so far thats the only thing I didnt test so its either this or the ecu.
Problem now is I cant get the car to act up anymore, for some reason the car is running great again and hasnt acted up in 2 days.

If the ecu never got the coil signal, would it not run the fuel pump on startup? Like the fuel pump precharging the system when put into the ON position for the first time, would the ecu still run the pump even if the signal was not there? It should right?


Also I noticed after I put my ecu in the refigerator to see if ambient temperature for the ecu would effect anything seemed to get rid of the problem. Does that make any sense or is this just a fluke?

.... mabye this is the cars way of saying thank u for fixing the hole in the floor
'83 maxima sedan, l24e, a/t, black

227K SOLD 6/7/2012

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kassim503
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#30

Post by kassim503 » 14 years ago

found someting!!

Acoording to the fsm, testing the coil input trigger means hooking up a analog voltmeter to pin 18 then cranking the starter and seeing if the needle jumps, well when the car dosent run pin 18 seems to have battery voltage, and it stays there even when cranking. Also the neg post on the coil reads it has 12v positive, is this normal?

Im not all that smart with electronic ignitions, I understand the concept but im not too keen on the details liek this, Is the coil's neg terminal supposed to have postive current running thru it? This is when the key is in the on position.

Also when the car is running good I dont think theres any electricity in there, but I have a digital voltometer so it soent have a needle to jump, im picking up a analog one right after i post.
'83 maxima sedan, l24e, a/t, black

227K SOLD 6/7/2012

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