Valve stem seal replacement

SD diesels were widely available in the US in the 1981-86 Datsun/Nissan 720 pickups, and in Canada through '87 in the D21 pickup.

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asavage
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Valve stem seal replacement

#1

Post by asavage »

[I originally wrote this in Sep-2004 in another venue; now I am reposting it here.]

I got around to replacing the valve stem seals, and here's a tip: I ordered the KD tool but my supplier substituted the more-expensive Lisle tool instead. The Lisle is supposedly a better tool because it uses a mechanism that negates having to reset the spring pull stroke for every valve, but I found that its handle kept getting in the way. I'd much rather have used the KD tool with the big knob on top. About $30.

Plus, it was a messier job than I'd thought. The springs are in pockets that are a bit deeper than normal, and every time the spring would pop off the tool, a spray of black oil would arise and cover me and the hood insulation (and anything else withing striking distance). After the second time, I took to draping a rag over the tool and spring to try to contain it as much as possible, and that helped.

Image

I pulled the valve cover again and adjusted the valves after having run the truck a couple of days. You have to have the engine up to operating temp to do this. Spec is .014". I found five valves over .020", two right on, and one at .011". Worth doing. On my non-PS, non-AC, non-EGR SD22, it required a 10mm wrench for the valve cover bolts, a 12mm box end wrench for the valve adjusters, and a GOOD No. 2 flatedge screwdriver for the actual adjustment.

Additional tools that are nice are a remote starter button (for bumping the crank around: be sure to disconnect -- and later reconnect -- the DPC controller at the round harness plug behind the battery), a new valve cover gasket (the Fel-Pro gasket fits nice but does not come with the two round gaskets for the cover bolts, it's about $10), some solvent to clean the inside of the valve cover, some clean-up soap for the engine for when you're done (Simple Green works well, as does the Castrol Purple stuff, which is mostly sodium hydroxide (lye)).

And, of course, a feeler gauge set.

Results? After getting all the glow plugs working, and new valve stem seals, if I let the glow plugs warm ten seconds longer than the dash indicator says, when I crank up cold I get NO (no!) smoke. Wow, I've never owned a smokeless diesel.

This truck doesn't smoke at all on the road. At least, I'm looking right at the tailpipe in the side mirror and I can't see any at all, even rev'd to the governor, even under full load on a hill. Must be something wrong ;) I am running ASTM D-6751 biodiesel (100%), so that might help.
Last edited by asavage 17 years ago, edited 1 time in total.
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.
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Zoltan
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#2

Post by Zoltan »

Al, do you have the part# for the KD tool? My oil consumption (and draft tube smoke) is so high that I've decided to replace the valve stem seals. I found a FelPro set for $25, I just need the right tool.
- Zoltan -
________________________________
'82 Datsun 720 SD22 California model
'86 Ford Escort 2.0L Diesel
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asavage
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#3

Post by asavage »

You won't improve draft tube smoke by replacing valve stem seals.

The spring compressor I should have purchased was KD 2078, $19 - $28:

Image Image
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.
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Zoltan
Posts: 136
Joined: 18 years ago
Location: Honolulu, HI

#4

Post by Zoltan »

Do I need 4 of the seals or 8? I'd think 8 valves = 8 seals. I saw some pictures with 8 seals, but Al listed 4. Amazon sells them for $2/ea.

I pulled the injectors last night... two of them looked really OILY. So if oil gets in, perhaps diesel, too, can get into the oil system through the seals ? I also tried to measure compression with my Chinese compression tester, but I could get access only to the third glow plug hole. I measured around 420 psi with a foot-long hose.
- Zoltan -
________________________________
'82 Datsun 720 SD22 California model
'86 Ford Escort 2.0L Diesel
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asavage
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#5

Post by asavage »

Zoltan wrote:Do I need 4 of the seals or 8?
Nissan FAST says eight.

Some engines, and some rebuilders, do not use a valve stem seal on the exhaust valves -- at least, back in the day. I'm just throwing that out there for historical perspective. You want eight.
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.
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