Ford/IH 6.9l diesel parts (new)

[asavage]

I sold my '84 Ford F250 4WD SC C6 truck yesterday -- took a loss. Am now selling off a bunch of parts I had for it.

* ARP stud kit for 6.9l . APR 150-4069, sells for $220-250 everywhere, I paid $215.34 for it Jul-2005. New in box, some light rust on one stud (see the rightmost stud in the box). Funny story: see the second-from-right stud in the box? Notice anything funny about it (you may have to click on the pic to get the larger pic)? No threads on one end! And you can't run a die down it, it's cut before it's hardened.

I obtained two replacement studs free of charge from ARP/Summit Racing to replace that one.

This stud kit lets you torque the 6.9l heads to a higher torque, and it tends to remain there. These studs are a work of art.

$190 for the set. Comes with my receipt and the extra studs. If you find a better price, email me, please.




* Next, I have NORS rocker arm pair set for the 6.9l . NAPA 214-1131, with a retail price of $27:


Mine sat in my damp cab for a winter and have some surface rust, most of which is not an issue, but some light buffing would be in order on the rocker tip area. These arm pivot wear out on the 6.9l if the oil isn't kept clean. I didn't need this set, picked it up on eBay for some reason I can't remember. I'd like $10 for it.



More cool stuff coming (new set of Stanadyne injectors, pair of fully rebuild heads, cluster to add factory diesel tach for '83-'86, NOS tach sender, tach sender housing for IP, conversion filter housing to use 7.3l IDI fuel filter, two new lift pumps, NOS Ford water pump, etc.), time for bed now. Shipping from 98368

[pbknowles]

A pity you weren't selling this stuff when I rebuilt my 6.9, unfortunately I paid "retail" for a set of head studs. Don't know how you could give up on such a robust piece of equipment as these trucks are, I would be lost without my '86 F350 SRW for towing. Did you ever frequent the Dieselstop?

[asavage]

A pity you weren't selling this stuff when I rebuilt my 6.9, unfortunately I paid "retail" for a set of head studs. Don't know how you could give up on such a robust piece of equipment as these trucks are, I would be lost without my '86 F350 SRW for towing.

Three things I didn't like with mine:

* I don't want 4WD
* Bed height too high
* C6 (no OD, sloppy TC)

I would have kept it if it had the E4OD or ZF trans, but I wasn't going to convert a 4WD to either of those for cheap. Maybe if a 2WD '88-93 came along . . .

Since I knew I wasn't going to be keeping it long-term, I looked at market value of the thing and decided to cut my losses and not invest the time to replace the blown head gasket (blown from CC to outside, so no fluid mixing but lots of noise).

Did you ever frequent the Dieselstop?

Yup, I'm a member. Used to post frequently in the IDI section.

I've decided I'm going to sell off all the 6.9l stuff and go with a 6.2l in a '67-72 C10 or C20. I've pretty well lined up a "free" '70 GMC that is not so rusty as to be unusable (and it's Green), now I need a 6.2/6.5l and a 700R4. The rest is just plumbing. 6.2l engines sell pretty cheap up here. I have to pay off the Green '93 Aero first though.

[asavage]

Click on any image for larger.

* Brand-new Standyne injectors, purchased Jul-05 from Diesel Injection Service, part No. 780430, for 6.9l/7.3l IDI. Paid $36.89 ea (210.88 for the set). OFI gets $34 for them today. Sell the set for $175 . Will not separate.





Brand-new Ford water pump for 6.9l, NIB. Ford No. E4TZ-8501-C. Comes with new Ford thermostat E5TZ-8575-C. Purchased from eBay. New one from NAPA (not Ford) is $64, I'll sell this one (with thermostat) for $50 . It's heavy.





Brand-new lift pumps (fuel pump). This is a high-failure item, if you consider 200k miles an early failure Both seem to be Carter, one has a box label with information, the other not. NAPA's cheapest new one is $27, I'll sell these for $12 ea.





Brand-new Fuel filter update kit. This kit allows you to use the easier-to-replace, cheaper, 7.3l fuel filter instead of the earlier cartridge filter. It doesn't filter any better, it's just cheaper and easier to replace the filter.

[later edit]
Well, that was wrong. Let me try again:
The OEM setup has a separate water separator kind of in the area on the engine side of where the parking brake pedal is. They are notorious for letting air into the fuel system, making the engine start fine, then stop a few seconds later with air in the IP. Saavy owners of this nasty setup plug the drain line from the OEM separator and only unplug it when they want to deal with water drain-off. Others use this kit to put the water separation function up where you can get to it without crawling under the truck. That's what this kit does: it is a combined water separator and fuel filter (kind of like our Nissans, eh?). Unfortunately, it also ties you to the Racor replacement element (although a Google search just turned up "Racor IN F811 = Motorcraft FD3375 = Fleetguard FS 1281"). You remove/bypass the factory leaky water separator when you install this kit.

http://www.dieselpage.com/racref69.htm
[end later edit]

Purchased from USDieselparts in Aug-05 for $42, it's still $42 from them, shipping was $10 add'l., I have receipt. Sell for $30.




Factory Tachometer. The diesel tachometer was optional even in the XLT trim line, from 1983-86. This is a complete manual trans instrument cluster with the factory tachometer. The tach can be removed and installed in an AT cluster. It's in good cosmetic condition though dusty. I purchased this from a wrecker (Marsh Auto Parts) in North Carolina in Ju-05 for $100 plus shipping across the country. I have receipt. Sell for $75.




Brand-new Ford Tachometer Sensor. Ford part No. E5TZ-17B384-A. New, never used. This plus the tach above plus 10' of wire will get you a factory tach in your early diesel PU. Some 6.9l engines shipped with an IP gear cover with provision for the sensor, others did not. If yours doesn't have the hole for the sensor, I include this used and clean IP gear housing for an extra $10 (will separate). Easy retrofit, no special knowledge or tools required. I have the receipt for the sensor: $49 in Aug-05. Sell for $45, or $55 with the IP gear housing.





Brand-new TCI Deep pan for C6 transmissions. This is one of the few deep oil pans that are supposed to work in a 4WD application without interference. All-aluminum, has a drain plug. Comes with longer mounting bolts and a gasket. This sells for $140 and up. I do not have a receipt for this one, bought it locally. NIB, sell for $100. This is a very good pan.

[pbknowles]

Now that will be a cool truck....the 6.2 was a bullet proof piece too. I had a '69 1/2 ton 4x4 that I wanted to put a 4BT Cummins in, but paying for son's college got in the way, sold it for 2 semesters tuition. On the Ford I have already swapped the T19 for a ZF5, so can't use the C6 stuff, and I already have the factory tach, but what does the 7.3 filter kit get me? 6.9 filters are $10-$12 at my local auto parts, but this looks like it has a drain or something? Does it screw on to the stock 6.9 filter head?

[asavage]

he 6.2 was a bullet proof piece too.

I drove an '83 G30 w6.2 for seven years (1993-2000), I'm very familiar with it. 160 HP (a bit light for a van that weighed 5750 lbs with me and 33 gal of fuel), top speed of 81 MPH (limited by the fact that the 700R4 cannot do full-throttle and OD at the same time, and the engine governor hit redline at 81 MPH in 3rd), and a true 80k fuel mileage average of 19.1 MPG. One GP failed in 180k miles, but three GP controller failures. One water pump, one radiator, one lift pump, six fuel filters, 15 alternator belts (one per year). Dad bought it new, I bought it with 102k on it.

I had a '69 1/2 ton . . .

I had a '69 C10 CST for seven years also, 1981-88. Damn fine truck. Having driven both 1/2T and 3/4T versions, I think I want the 3/4T rear axle and front spindles with the 1/2T springs.

. . . but what does the 7.3 filter kit get me? 6.9 filters are $10-$12 at my local auto parts, but this looks like it has a drain or something? Does it screw on to the stock 6.9 filter head?

I don't have it in front of me . . .

OK, I remember now . . . it isn't what I remembered it being. What I wanted was the fuel filter setup from the later 7.3l but they are hard to find, so I settled for this setup that mimics the function that Ford built in to the later OEM setup.

From memory, the OEM setup has a separate water separator kind of in the area on the engine side of where the parking brake pedal is. They are notorious for letting air into the fuel system, making the engine start fine, then stop a few seconds later with air in the IP. Saavy owners of this nasty setup plug the drain line from the OEM separator and only unplug it when they want to deal with water drain-off. Others use this kit to put the water separation function up where you can get to it without crawling under the truck. That's what this kit does: it is a combined water separator and fuel filter (kind of like our Nissans, eh?). Unfortunately, it also ties you to the Racor replacement element (although a Google search just turned up "Racor IN F811 = Motorcraft FD3375 = Fleetguard FS 1281"). You remove/bypass the factory leaky water separator when you install this kit.

http://www.dieselpage.com/racref69.htm



T19/ZF5 = firewall reinforcement too. Just one more thing I don't have to think about, the firewall oilcanning and cracking out Dad's got a '93 F350 IDI crewcab 4WD with the ZF and it hasn't held up all that well in 220k miles. It's been out twice for synchros. He bought it new. If it wasn't crewcab and it didn't have 4WD, I'd buy it from him.