Small overheating problem

[asavage]

step c. on EM-6 for removing the timing chain it says support timing chain by placing Tool between timing chains they labled the tool as kv10105800 (sti7420001)

Alltrade 648831 Nissan Timing Chain Holding Tool (1970 - 1983), $7 from Amazon.

* For Nissan "L" series engines (1968-80 1.6L, 1.8L & 2.0L 4-cylinder, 1970-83 2.4L, 2.6L & 2.8L inline 6-cylinder)
* Used to hold timing chain in place while cylinder head or camshaft is removed
* Keeps timing chain from dropping inside the timing cover
* Wedge shape keeps chain tensioner from popping out
* Eliminates the need for timing cover R&I when servicing head

Note that this is not the tool to use on the NAPS-Z engines (2.0, 2.2, 2.4l in 720 PU, 1980-86). For those, use a different wedge, Alltrade 648832.

[kassim503]

Today I woke up, I was like today is the day!

Got food posioning

I knew having KFC for dinner was too good to be true

Sooo, tommorow if im feeling a little bit better ill suck it up and do the job

Too bad its too late to order that part off of amazon

[kassim503]

GODDAMNIT when i pulled the head I forgot to scribe a mark on the figgin gear and on the chain, what in the world do I do now?!??

ANYBODY know how to put the timing back, reply quickly pleasse

[kassim503]

quit for the night, I rented the wrong valve compressor- i need the c clamp style one.

I got some pics, I noticed some kind of groove worn into the block, right at the deck, not on the cyl wall, it could be some kind of valve damage, but its not big enough and the valves dont show it. Its only on cyls 2-3 and 6 (the leaky one) See pic below -



Good news is that there is no head warpage and block warpage or anything catastrophic, also the valves and seats are in good shape.

Also I think I popped the tensioner out- ill see whenever i put the chain in - also i found hope for my messing up, i locked the camshaft at tdc, so hopefully ill just lock it back up at tdc and test turn it, make sure there is no contact, and keep running it and jumping gears until i get it right - it sounds promising.

[asavage]

I noticed some kind of groove worn into the block, right at the deck, not on the cyl wall

At first blush, it looks normal. It's not wear, it's a valve relief cutout. I didn't know the L24 used that, but a Google search revealed that others have noted it, such as http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=95803 :

I just bought a '82 maxima . . . since the block is already notched for the larger valves . . . didn't know if the notched block of the L24e would be enough for a z cam . . .

What throws me is that you say that only three cylinders have it. Have you looked on the "other side" of the other three cylinders?

[later]
Hmmm, the picture link went dead.

[kassim503]

What throws me is that you say that only three cylinders have it. Have you looked on the "other side" of the other three cylinders?

Why no, ill look when I get back to work, which would be now, ill update whenever I get tired.

On another note I think I can line up the painted dots on the timing chain, after taking my guess with the camshaft positioning, if I remember one of the dots go to the TDC nub drilled into the cam gear, ill consult the FSM later.

[kassim503]

the project from hell goes on to another day

The exhaust manifold wont move up due to the exhaust shop stretching the pipe in, tommorow ill drop the exhaust, put the manifold back on and stretch it back.

Also the timing tenisoner seems to have extended outwards a little and I cant pull the cam gear onto the cam, its not off by alot- im short about a quarter to an 8th of an inch, would sticking a crowbar with a chisel type point down the front chain passage and push the tensioner back in sound crazy? I really dont think I have all the tools needed to pull the crank pulley off, no puller and there is a 90 percent chance the bolt is going to be a size i dont have a socket for. Also I didnt order a front seal kit because I was planning on this not happening

But if the worst happens, what is the size for the bolt on the crank pulley? And according to the pics in the FSM there seems to be 6 smaller bolts holding the pulley to a hub that is held on by a bigger bolt, is this true?

I want to get this over asap, I want to ride

[kassim503]

Anybody want to throw some ideas out on how to lock the engine so i can pull the crank pulley?

[asavage]

5-spd? Put it in 5th gear, set parking brake.

Not 5-spd? Pull the starter, jam a large screwdriver into the flywheel's teeth.

Too hard? Pull radiator, use air impact wrench (which is what I do).

If you pull the timing cover, you'll add the complication of having to correctly install the distributor too. Are you sure you can't finesse the tensioner from above?

[kassim503]

If you pull the timing cover, you'll add the complication of having to correctly install the distributor too. Are you sure you can't finesse the tensioner from above?

Thanks for reminding me- the distributor is half bolted to the timing cover

I was just trying to see if there was another way instead of locking the flywheel.

After i get the intake all set up again ill try poking around and try to finagle it back in, hopefully the spring tension isnt immense and itll let me get it back in its hole with a screwdriver or crowbar

[kassim503]

Hmm, the tensioner is very easy to jimmy back using a screwdriver or crowbar, I must of done it over 20 times without fatigue.

Bad news is even with the tensioner retracted i still cant seem to get the cam gear to get on the cam! its the same distance away as it was when the tensioner was popped out, wtf!

Does the tensioner have to go in past the rail?
I made a crude drawing on the worlds greatest photo editor (microsoft paint) to try to help illustrate what im trying to say- im talking about pushing it in until there is a recess, its the green arrow.

Click to make it bigger- there is no way you can see from the thumbnail

[asavage]

1983 FSM:
Page EM-6, top center pic (Fig EM709)
Page EM-17, lower right pic (Fig SEM320)
and the next page, upper left (Fig EM170)

Have you considered that you may have an extra link in a slack portion under the crank gear? Looking at the pics, it seems likely that, if the chain became slack enough at one point to droop off the crank gear, it could be difficult to get a tight wrap on it -- unless you turn the crank 90° while pulling up on the chain (and then turn the crank back). If there is any slack lurking below the crank gear, that'd reveal it.

[kassim503]

I tried turning the crank the reverse rotation of the engine, ill try turning it the way it spins normally, but im afraid of popping the tensioner out and the chain catches it, yanking it down into the crankcase. I dont really think the chain has a extra link hanging on the bottom of the gear but its more than possible. Also im trying to duplicate the alltrade from amazon- see 3 or 4 posts back, out of plywood, They seem to work nice, but I want to make one thatll hold the tensioner in the best and I dont know the width of the lower part, so its try and try again.

After 5 days and probably something like 40 hours of work and im still not done?! Im losing my touch

[asavage]

I'm losing my touch

Better to have had a touch and lost it, than to never have had a touch at all.

Get used to it. If you live long enough, you learn a lot of answers . . . and then nobody will listen to you!

[philip]

I'm losing my touch

Better to have had a touch and lost it, than to never have had a touch at all.

Get used to it. If you live long enough, you learn a lot of answers . . . and then nobody will listen to you!

"Once you learn just about all there is worth knowing about something, the thing is discontinued" .... which is why nobody wants to listen!