asavage wrote: Interesting. The LD28s sold in the Maxima ("Bluebird", in your area) in the US 1981-83 were all shipped here with factory oil coolers, similar to the setup Nissan uses in the 280ZX Turbo.
Hi Al,
Two of my engines (includes the one I transplanted into the Landrover) came from the Nissan Laurel as used car imports ex-Japan, and the third was lifted from a Holden as had been transplanted so original donor car is unknown. Not sure if the Laurel was relabelled as anything else really.
I also understand that a lot of LD28s were imported to NZ enmass on pallets so donor cars also unknown.
Is bypass filtration only available on the cooler apparatus?
windsock wrote:Is bypass filtration only available on the cooler apparatus?
In the US, only the 1983 model Maxima with LD28 has the oil cooler that accomodates the dual-nature spin-on filter with bypass filtration.
The factory oil cooler for the 1981-82 Maxima diesels don't have that feature.
Theoretically, it's possible to bolt-on the '83 cooler in place of the earlier ones (or none at all). I can't recall where the return line for the bypass-to-sump is plumbed and I don't have an '83 here to check right now, but I think it was a plugged hole in the side of the block, replaced with a hose barb.
windsock wrote:Is bypass filtration only available on the cooler apparatus?
In the US, only the 1983 model Maxima with LD28 has the oil cooler that accomodates the dual-nature spin-on filter with bypass filtration.
Thanks for the info Al, next time I am looking at buying a block or bits I'll try to get a bypass cooler for interest sake. I may even plumb it in . After reading your post yesterday, I remember looking at a pile of bits for sale and I recall an oil cooler in amongst the pile. It didn't have the bypass outlet. I ended up buying an alternator from the pile only.
The cooler alone is an improvement over no cooler, as it does double-duty: it can help warm the oil during warm-up, and it does a really good job of keeping the oil temp under 230°F or so, which can make a lot of difference to some engine oils.
The bypass filtration is a wonderful way of keeping engine oil clean, as opposed to having clean oil -> dirty oil, then change it.
I'll look out for one. An advantage not mentioned is the change in orientation of the oil filter makes it an easier change also. The horizontal one always spills oil on unscrewing.
I don't suppose anyones compared oil pressure differences between cooled and uncooled...?
As an aside, I bought a rear main oil seal today to replace the one in there while engine is out... NZD119! An off the shelf part here in NZ so I guess worthwhile to not have to wait but heck, sometimes you're the pidgeon, sometimes you're the statue...
windsock wrote:An advantage not mentioned is the change in orientation of the oil filter makes it an easier change also. The horizontal one always spills oil on unscrewing.
If you use a quality filter (such as the Wix), that has a silicone anti-drainback valve (you can see it, it's orange), and pull the drain plug and let the engine drain and cool for an hour or so, when you spin off the filter, you won't lose hardly any oil.
The black, nitrile ADVs that most filters use don't actually seem to work.
. After reading your post yesterday, I remember looking at a pile of bits for sale and I recall an oil cooler in amongst the pile. It didn't have the bypass outlet. I ended up buying an alternator from the pile only.
