Which engine oil do you use...?

[Nissan_Ranger]

There have been tremendous advances made in oil technology since the birth of our venerable SD22's and diesel fuel has but a fraction of the sulfur in it that it used to have. It seems reasonable to revisit the oil change intervals and types of oil recommended for our engines so long ago...

I change the oil and filter every 10,000 kilometers (6,200mi) (shunning the owners manual procedure of changing the filter every other change)

I use a ph8a/WIX # 51515 filter and Quaker State 'Q' synthetic 10W30 oil. Year 'round for the oil in a temperature range of -30C (-22F) to +30C (86F) degrees. The engine will start without the block heater being plugged in right down to -30C degrees. Thanks to the low pour point of the synthetic oil, the engine cranks over just as fast as in much warmer weather; cranking speed is everything when it comes to starting a diesel. It will start at lower temps without the block heater, but it cranks harder and takes much more glowtime. Just an hour of blockheater and it starts just like in warm weather. In the hot weather of summer, oil pressure is exactly the same with no drop of at idle and less engine noise that I used to get with the dino oil. Synthetic is the only way to go with this engine and drive train for my money...

First time I did the longer interval, I sampled the used oil and had it analyzed. Results came back declaring the oil still servicable with over 50 percent remaining life expectancy.

Oil consumption is on the order of 1 liter per 4000 - 5000 km (2,485 - 3,106 miles). I would have a better idea of this if I maintained a written record.

Blow-by is lower than most engines that I check in this class.

There is about 7000 km (4,350 mi) on my oil as I write this and the oil is still slightly translucent; i.e., it doesn't look like runny black paint.

The transmission and rear end are lubed by Amsoil high grade (of two available grades) synthetic lube. Makes for a nice shift even in the coldest weather and improves fuel economy even more.

I've been stymied in my search for a proven diaphragm oil and have been using a straight power steering fluid for the past 5 years in that function in the lack of any better information. No adverse reactions noticed yet, and the housing is a lot cleaner than it was with whatever the old gummy crap was...

So do tell.... What sort of oils and filters do ya'll use, and what change interval?? Why?

Regards,

N_R

[philip]

Oil Analysis I
Oil Analysis II
Oil Analysis III

I prefer my own findings.

Synthetic diesel oils are a lot more money. I do NOT find them worth money on THESE little engines. Around here, Shell Rotella, Mobil-1300, & Valvoline 15w-40 costs $9 per 4qt bottle. Rotella Rotella Synthetic 5w-40 cost $19 for a 4qt bottle. And Mobil1-1300 (synthetic) cost $30 for a 4qt bottle. They ALL 'look' like dense-black by 3,000 miles. But I find that "color" really does tell very little about the oil's truth.

While I don't see your low weather (-22F), I do see temperatures MUCH higher than you. Currently this is in southern CA and AZ really hot. (90-122F). Shell Rotella 10w-30 is nowhere around to be found.

I find that TB, oil soot, and fuel contaminated the 3 most important. You didn't mention these.

My engine has been providing 2800 - 3300 miles per quart (US). At 3,000 miles (and using ONLY diesel D2 fuel) ... that oil 'looks' dense-black. I would be worried if it was "slightly translucent".

[REDNECK]

10-30w? in onterio???.........in alberta, (+40 to -65) wheir i live, i always use 15w-40 rotella T, run the wabasto all winter never a problem. Trans, synthetic 50w, shell, rear end 75w-90 synthetic, shell. I use Fleetguard filters for both fuel and oil. Big p in canada we almost never have a grade of fuel to chose from........... it's #1 or #1 dyed farm fuel.

[ecomike]

I am with Philip on the oil selection. I use 15W-40 dyno diesel oil only, so far Rotella T, but I was forced to use Mobil Delvac 1300 last week as I refuse to use the new CJ-4 API spec oil as they have reduced the ZDDP additive to a dangerously low level under the new CJ-4 spec in order to meet the catalytic converter life requirements for the new 2007 diesel engines. They seem to feel that an earlier death for our older diesel engines would help clean up the air faster. So I went shopping for the old CI-4 spec diesel oils that do not list the new CJ-4 spec compliance on the label, and I stocked up recently. They claim the CJ-4 is backward compatible, but that is just a bunch of BS in my opinion.

Like Philip, I am way down south where the only ice we see is in the freezer or on a TV show, LOL. Almost never gets below 32 F here, and then only at 4 am, by the time I get up and hit the road its back to 40 F or higher in the worst part of winter, february.

I tried some synthetic in my gas 4.0 jeep engine about 12 months ago, biggest mistake I ever made. It was using 1 quart of 10W40 Exxon dyno oil in 3,000 miles before, and went to drinking and leaking 1 quart every 200 miles of Castrol Syntech 20W50. Had to replace the oil adapter O'rings seals to stop the leaks (the front and rear main seals were already new), then I had to add 2 quarts of Exxon 50 wt, to get the engine back to a 1 quart per 3000 mile consumption rate. The synthetic did clean up the inside of the engine nicely, but I could have done that with a lot cheaper additive.

I am running synthetic in my recently rebuilt 5 speed Nissan tranny. Redline MT-90, and I love it. In summary I would NOT switch an older engine running dyno oil over to synthetic, just too many horror stories out there including my own now, but for a new engine, completely rebuilt engine, or manual tranny I would consider synthetics.

[asavage]

I don't think the reduction of ZDDP is a significant factor in an SD engine. Zinc is great for unpressurized lube areas with sliding things like cam followers, but the only verifiable story I've heard about the new API oil spec (which sets a lower limit on Zinc than previously) and accelerated wear is with engines that have much, much higher spring pressure than ours. Diesel valve springs have low spring pressure and low opening rates compared to higher-revving gassers.

And Zinc is not the only way to boost sliding friction anti-wear properties.

I feel your experience with synth. oil is atypical. Next time you want to try a synthetic crankcase oil, find one whose base stock meets API's Group IV category, not Group III/+.

Castrol Syntech has not been formulated with Group IV base stock since about 1997, IIRC.

Oils (synthetic or "high detergent" or whatever) do not clean up existing crud in your engine in any significant time frame. Best they can do is to dilute whatever happens to work loose and hold it in suspension long enough to possibly make it out next oil change, but though there have been claims by at least two additive retailers that their product will remove crap from the inside of your engine, even after extensive (I mean several hours online) looking I could not find ONE proven before/after that showed that to actually be the case.

Detergent, WRT lube oils, means that crud is held in suspension and prevented from accumulating on surfaces. It does not mean "like Tide": it doesn't clean existing non-suspended crud.

[ecomike]

The ZDDP is also an antioxidant additive to protect the dyno oil from oxidation caused by water and heat.

[plenzen]

The truck that I have has had either 15-40 Petro Super Plus or Chevron 15-40 in it since it was new. I use the actual Nissan oil filter P# 15209-J6502 and change the oil every 5000K's (3,000 miles). I also have a case of Donaldson P555616 industrial OF's for when I can no longer get the Nissan ones, but so far so good. (You get 10% off if you order more than three at a time) They are only $9.00 ea from Nissan and a Fram or a Wix would be close to 7 or 8 anyway. I have a Racor 100 installed ahead of the FF and the Racor elements are cheap! I use a either a Wix, or Donaldson FF and change that every 5000K with the oil. Overkill perhaps. I changed the trans oil to 80-90 when I did the clutch (and rear seal because I was there already) but am thinking now to try a synthetic in there, and want to prolong the inevitable “input shaft bearing failure” for as long as I can. Same for the diff. but am not certain on what to do for those yet. I am with ecomike on the synthetic thing in engines. I tried to change a couple of gassers over to that and they all used it like beer on a hot day. Went back to the conventional stuff and they were happy happy. My SD25 uses about one liter in 5000K's now.

[asavage]

I am with ecomike on the synthetic thing in engines. I tried to change a couple of gassers over to that and they all used it like beer on a hot day.

On two of my rigs, I have had th opposite experience.

* My '83 Chev G30 6.2l diesel, bought new by Dad, I bought it in '93 with 102k on it. Had "religious" maintenance. Used one quart of 15W40 per 800 mi. Switched to Castrol Syntech 5W50 gasser oil (when it was still Group IV) 5W50, oil consumption immediately went down to qt/1000mi. Ran it for seven years with Syntech and later other synthetics when Syntech cheapened, and when I sold it with 180k on it, oil consumption was down to a quart in 1800 mi. (and my 78k fuel mileage average was 19.1 MPG: not bad for an aerodynamic shoebox that weighs 5,750 lbs!)

* My '89 Aero gasser, bought with 141k showing (speedo can't show a leading '2', so it was maybe 241k mi.). Used a quart in 650-800 mi -- no leaks. I switched to AMSOil 5W30 and ran it 90k miles, and it was a steady qt/800 the entire time, except when twice I switched to conventional oil, when the fuel mileage would drop -- both times -- by 1+ MPG, it would like to stall once each time on very cold starts, and oil consumption would drop back to under a quart in 700 mi.

Similar experience with other rigs, but those two are the one I owned longest and have the numbers for.

It bears repeating: real synthetic oil is API Group IV base stock, not Group III/+. Lower high temp volatility than conventional by far. The stuff stays in the crankcase and doesn't evaporate out the PCV system.

[plenzen]

I have searched for some of these Group IV oils here in the GWN and they are not all that available. I have seen some oils advertised for $9.50 - $11.00/L. I have looked at the group rating on them but do not remember what they were or if they were even diesel compatable, I was checking to see if there was actually gold or money in the bottles. @9.50 - $11.00 per liter X 7 liters !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Holy Crap!!! I know you can go longer between changes with that but there is something that just bugs me about going more than 5000Kms per change. Old and set in my ways I guess. I will have to try and find an Amsoil dealer someplace and get some tranny and diff fluid from him. The guy that we used to get it from for the quick change is no longer around. If you think the Amsoil is a good way to go?

[philip]

I am with Philip on the oil selection. I use 15W-40 dyno diesel oil only, so far Rotella T, but I was forced to use Mobil Delvac 1300 last week as I refuse to use the new CJ-4 API spec oil as they have reduced the ZDDP additive to a dangerously low level under the new CJ-4 spec -SNIP-

The ZDDP level is important for older diesel engines having FLAT TAPPET cams. That would be our SDxx engines.

I walked through the local Wal-Mart and Krager. I found CJ-4 oil on Delo 400, Delvac 1300, and Castrol Tection Extra (all 15w-40) jugs. The rest were CI-4.

If you want Amsoil then use the 15w-40 with "TBN 12" and "Premium Heavy Duty Diesel and Marine" (AME) on the label.

[plenzen]

The oils and fuels that are available in the US are not necessarily available here in the GWN. Dont know why but they are not. Our diesel and gasoline formulations are even different here. We get the standard Penzoil, Castrol, Mobil, Vavoline stuff but any of the exotic stuff like you are talking about is just not around, at least at the local stores like you can get. What would you suggest in the Amsoil for the diff and tranny, once I find a dealer might as well get it all I guess.

[ecomike]

(Philip and...) I switched to Redline MT-90 synthetic for the tranny as it seems to be the only safe product left on the market for brass synchromesh manual transmissions. It also shifts a whole lot better.

I think Al is using an Amsoil product in his.

[asavage]

I think Al is using an Amsoil product in his.

Covered extensively in this thread.

[plenzen]

Thanks.!!
I will go in search of the Red Line MT90 today.
I found the specs on the engine oil that I have been using and it is Petro Canada, Duron, 15-40. API CI4, CH4, CF2 Recomended for Mack EO-N, Cummins 20071,20076 and Vovlo VDS2.

I will try and find some CJ4 as Phillip suggests and give that a try.

[ecomike]

Thanks.!!
I will go in search of the Red Line MT90 today.
I found the specs on the engine oil that I have been using and it is Petro Canada, Duron, 15-40. API CI4, CH4, CF2 Recomended for Mack EO-N, Cummins 20071,20076 and Vovlo VDS2.

I will try and find some CJ4 as Phillip suggests and give that a try.

The new API CJ-4 in the US is what you want to avoid. Sounds like your local supplies are still OK, i.e the better, older formulas!