kassim's 1983 Maxima Sedan

#1

i owned this car for the past 3 years or so, i had the car repainted around a year ago, and its got a new exhaust.

heres some pics

#2

It's very photogenic!

#3

Nice looking car and it's the first time I've seen one in black. Looks good and I like the yellow spark plug wires, haha even though I'm a heavy diesel fanatic. 81-84 is and will always be my favorite Maxima body style.

#4

I was thinking that the orange Saginaw power steering pump was a nice touch, combined with the Ford blue adjustment bracket.

Air intake snorkel missing. Want one? One at the JY.

Change your brake fluid

It's too black.

What's that on the antenna? Wait a second . . . on the forward antenna! What, do you have a Wagon RF fender?

(Sedans have antenna on LR; Wagons on RF)

#5

nice eye!
i pulled the fender off of a wagon and i thought it would be a nice spot to slap on that cb antenna that used to be magnet-mounted to the roof

the snorkel dosent fit with my giant deep cycle battery crammed into the battery compartment, usually ill run half the snorkel in the spring to prevent massive amounts of water getting into my air filter

the brake fluid is almost new, im not too sure why its dark, possibly because im running some kind of synthetic fluid? I havnt left the cap off for long periods of time but i should pull the filter and look at it nevertheless

those yellow wires are accel thundersport wires, they actually make a horsepower and fuel economy difference

#6

The silicone DOT5 brake fluid is purple, that's why it looks dark. You & I are probably the only ones running it here. I assumed it was DOT3 and that led me astray. DOT5 iss also non-hygroscopic so it not only is is not miscible with water, it doesn't attract it. IOW, it's not a big deal if you leave the cap off, at least not like the big deal it is if you leave it off with DOT4 and below.

Deep cycle, eh? Yeah, that would keep the snorkel off. No big deal on the gasser, but it makes an amazing noise difference in the diesel.

CB, ah ha. So that would be an impedence matching going bulge? Looks like a frightened Boa that had a mouse last night

#7

i never knew the dot5 fluid didnt absorb moisture from the air, i guess it was a great investment spending a extra 2 dollars and doing it right, also it has a higher boiling point if i ever feel like riding the brakes for a few minutes

#8

$2 more sounds pretty low. Was it purple?

The NAPA-branded DOT5 I buy is quite a bit more expensive than DOT3, and DOT4 is about double what DOT3 is. DOT5 is higher yet.

DOT 3 & DOT 4 are clear (or slightly yellowish in some brands)

#9

asavage wrote:$2 more sounds pretty low. Was it purple?

The NAPA-branded DOT5 I buy is quite a bit more expensive than DOT3, and DOT4 is about double what DOT3 is. DOT5 is higher yet.

DOT 3 & DOT 4 are clear (or slightly yellowish in some brands)

What's the impact of running the DOT5 in these cars?

thanks
steve a

#10

i was just taking a guess at how much the dot 5 is, i really dont remember how much it did cost, but i did remember it had a blue/purple tint to it.

i guess the only impact the fluid would do on your braking is it would raise the boiling point so it might help with brake fade problems, if you have them

#11

DOT5 doesn't attract water. So it tends to not corrode the internals due to that property alone; wheel cylinders, proportioning valves, etc. just last longer.

Because water does not mix with DOT5, its boiling point does not decrease with time.

It is considered bad practice to mix DOT5 and other brake fluids -- I haven't read the reason(s). When I flush a brake system on any car of mine, it gets DOT5, but I do run a lot of fluid through when I flush.

I've had DOT5 for seven years in the Aerostar (non RABS) and haven't flushed the brake fluid since converting (flushing the brake fluid every five years is a std recommendation for <=DOT4) and haven't had a hydraulic failure either. It got new rear wheel cylinders at the time, but I'm still running the same old calipers and MC. I've had the linings changed twice all around during that time (once when I had to replace the whole rear axle, because the 4.10 Trak-Lok rear ends oval the diff cross shaft bore; and I've turned the rotors twice and replaced them once for warpage, and they're warped again dammit!).

I've had DOT5 in other vehicles, but that's the one that I've run the longest. DOT5 is prohibited in many ABS-equipped vehicles. I don't know why, and I haven't sufficient interest to Google for the answer right now.

#12

I was under the impression that the DOT5 caused hoses to turn to mush. If this isn't the case then I have no reason not to convert everything to DOT5. I've used DOT4 in all my vehicles for several years.

steve a

#13

If you cite a ref, I'll read it.

#14

asavage wrote:If you cite a ref, I'll read it.

That's too much like work...and I'm not going in that haystack tonight, but if I run across it I'll pass it on. Suffice it to say however that you've never had a problem with DO5 and decaying rubber components?

steve a

#15

asavage wrote:DOT5 doesn't attract water. So it tends to not corrode the internals due to that property alone; wheel cylinders, proportioning valves, etc. just last longer.

DOT5 is still not totally free of moisture problems. Since it is not hygroscopic, any moisture that does find its way into the system will tend to pool at the lowest point. If that happens to be calipers or valves the moisture will cause corrosion problems there.

Given that, I have been running DOT5 in another car for over 10 years w/ few problems. Main issue was the (hydraulically operated) brake light switches that were plumbed into the hard brakeline manifold failed way too quickly w/ DOT5. Changed to a better quality brake light switches and seems to be better.

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kassim's 1983 Maxima Sedan

kassim's 1983 Maxima Sedan

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