Bypassing the glow plug Timer

[Nissan_Ranger]

I've had a question on how I did away with my timer. Here is what I did...

The glow plugs are fed from a solenoid relay. Find it by following the main wire back from the glow plugs on the engine. There will be three wires minimum on that relay.
One is the wire you just would have followed back to find the relay; should be about 8 or 10 gauge.
One is B+, live at all times and must be live (because it is the source of power for the glow plugs through the solenoid); also about 8 or 10 gauge. One will be the wire from the glow plug timer which actuates the relay; should be about 18 gauge. This last wire goes 'live' to actuate the relay. Remove it from the solenoid relay.

Test the solenoid by feeding power to the terminal you just removed the wire from. Do that with a jumper wire hooked up to the positive battery terminal. The relay should 'CLUNK!' and the heavy wire going to the glow plugs should become live, thus feeding the glow plugs. If it doesn't, then the solenoid is defective OR not grounded properly; check it out as needed. If it 'CLUNKS!' but the heavy wire going to the glow plugs stays dead, then the solenoid is defective and must be replaced. I would use a Ford style fender mounted starter solenoid to replace it. If it works and the glow plugs work while you apply the jumper, then you are ready for the next step.

Acquire a spring loaded 'Push To Start' button switch and mount it in your dash some where. Think of it when mounting that you will push it with one hand while working the engine starter with the other. Run a fused live feed to one side of the switch. Run a wire from the other side of the switch out through the firewall to the glow plug solenoid switch. Put it on the terminal you removed the original control wire from. Test by pushing the button. The solenoid should 'CLUNK!'. If it does, you are off to the races.

The time you operate the solenoid prior to starting depends on the type of plugs you have. I have the kind that are slow to heat and run them for 15 seconds (Count 'steamboats' as you hold the button) in the warmer weather and 30 to 40 seconds in the cold weather. 15 seconds in the cold weather IF you use the block heater. After the count, crank to start (Keep holding the button to feed the glowplugs) If it starts right up, take it to a faster than normal idle and release the button once the engine runs fairly smoothly. If it doesn't start, wait another 10 - 15 seconds (keeping the glow control button held down the whole time) and try again. If all is working properly, the engine should start the second time. Keep the engine speed elevated above normal idle and hold the button down until the engine runs smoothly.

I am making the assumption that you have sufficient workable automotive electrical knowledge to do the testing and building I've described. I mentioned that I have the slow heating plugs. I do not know what kind you have and unfortunately don't know what the other type that I've heard of look like. I believe that information IS on this site, so some research is in order:-)

You folks jump right in with comments and suggestions...

N_R

[asavage]

I would use a Ford style fender mounted starter solenoid to replace it.

While old Ford diesels use a solenoid that looks like the starter solenoid that Ford used for decades, I suspect it's a different part.

The Nissan GP relay is designed with a duty cycle that's up to a couple of minutes. I doubt that the Ford starter solenoid is designed to be engaged that long.

Not saying it won't work, only questioning how long it will work.

The Nissan GP relay is not a trouble-prone part (I've never seen a bad one, never heard of a bad one). And they're still available new. Heck, I probably have a couple used ones kicking around.

Keep the engine speed elevated above normal idle and hold the button down until the engine runs smoothly.

I can't recall on the SD slow GP system, but the Maxima & Sentra diesels both do afterglow, where the GPs are run at a reduced voltage for a period after the engine's been started, to reduce cold misfire.

The SD is very prone to cold misfire.

Does anyone recall if the SD GP controller does afterglow?

[Modsqwad]

The later qwickglow systems definitely do afterglow. I just did away with my
Controller and fabbed up the same system mentioned above. It works fine, and is a bit faster as it uses the qwickglow plugs. Ready to start in 5/6 seconds.

[Nissan_Ranger]

The solenoid I'm using now is an aftermarket replacement for the original Ford product. It's been in service since 2004. I had to replace the actual (Ford OEM) starter solenoid a couple of months ago when it began missing starts.

My original timer did do afterstart glows at full voltage. The original owner had replaced numerous plugs until we did away with the timer. Haven't blown any since.

[plenzen]

Just throw in my $.02 here

I have what looks like a the old Ford part but was referred to as a Continuous Duty Solenoid when I went looking for it and I have it hooked to my air heater. Works well and have it wired to run at full power with the after glow system, which was on the SD25's. The plugs however operate at a reduced voltage and remain on depending on intake temp, but will time out after 40 secs +/- if not cranked and running.

I had bypassed this whole system when I first got the vehicle and after the 3rd burnt GP I hooked it back up again. If the timer etc were to die I would purchase the GPs for the Marine/Industrial application and install them. They are pretty much bullet proof and back in the day with the CN 433's/633's ( SD22's SD33's) the label on the panel said. "Pre-Heat for 15 secs". There was a chrome perforated cover with an element inside it that you could see glowing on the panel. Some boat owners would even use it as a cig lighter when the engine was running. The wiring kit came with a simple Delco relay. Lots of owners would keep the button pressed after start up to smooth out idle. The company I worked for did not get rich selling GPs. In fact, cant recall even changing one.

Paul