I just purchased a SD22 for a repower project in a Willis PU, the motor was running great when pulled 2 years ago but for a tick the previous owner could not figure out (more on that in another post). I have not tried to spin the motor other than just grabbing the balancer and rocking the entire motor. The balancer did move a bit so the motor is not locked up, the oil is nice and clean, no water present. I believe the motor internals to be just fine, my main concern is the IP and injectors and I have 0 experience with the Kiki/Bosch pumps. Any to do's/not to do's specific to this pump?? I plan to pull the injectors and have them cleaned and checked over so the pump is my main concern.
Billysgoat wrote:SNIP
The balancer did move a bit so the motor is not locked up, the oil is nice and clean, no water present. I believe the motor internals to be just fine, my main concern is the IP and injectors and I have 0 experience with the Kiki/Bosch pumps. Any to do's/not to do's specific to this pump?? I plan to pull the injectors and have them cleaned and checked over so the pump is my main concern.
What say ya'll????
See: Fuel Filters and all other thread titles in bold print with * ASTERISKS *
Do not use ether to assist starting ... ever.
-Philip Passed 08May2008
My friend, you are missed . . .
1982 Datsun 720KC SD-22
Unless you are extremely confident in this motor's well cared for past, I would, assuming the motor is still out, pull the pan and look at the center main (the rear main will wear the most, but you don't want to break the seal), any rod, the bores, and the cam. It would be an easy confidence builder regardless of what the tic was/is. Make double sure there are no leaks in the vacuum lines or corresponding components. I doubt there will be a problem with the pump itself, but you should pull the cover off the back to check the integrity and pliability of the diaphragm. See the Pneumatic Governor Diaphragm thread. Take the time to understand the most unique aspect of this motor: the vacuum controlled pump.
If you are going to use a matching 5 speed tranny you should read up on input bearing.
Galen
'82 standard cab 3 axle SD22 turbo
'89 int'l 9700 Cummins 444 (855 ci)
'29 HD FD export model
I will certainly be pulling the pan, thanks for the advice and I did not know it was a vacum controlled IP so those lines will be IRAN'ed REAL good. Thanks for the info on the diaphram in the pump, one more item to check on I did not know about.
As for the tranny, I have a 5spd out of the truck the motor was in and a gasser 5spd for spares, 5th is out of the diesel tranny so a overhaul is in order for the diesel tranny if I use it, still debating the use of a newer 5spd out of a mustang or somesuch with a custom bellhousing.
Phillip,
I have read through most of those marked with ** and will re-read them a time or two before turning a wrench, thanks for the link also
If ether is NOT useable on this engine what is?? I know that my IH with an SD33 in it we always used WD-40 as a starting assist after changing the fuel filter etc. Is this acceptable on the SD22 series as well??
I have read through most of those marked with ** and will re-read them a time or two before turning a wrench, thanks for the link also
If ether is NOT useable on this engine what is?? I know that my IH with an SD33 in it we always used WD-40 as a starting assist after changing the fuel filter etc. Is this acceptable on the SD22 series as well??
ANYTHING that gets the engine going with first couple of ignitions producing SHARP COMPBUSTION knocks is hazardous to pistons because these diesels have a lot of compression (22:1). For this reason, I would not use ether, WD, or other light aeromatics to start any SD series diesel. There is no justification for "aerosol starting assistance" after a filter change simply because a filter change does not drain fuel between the injection pump and the injectors. Air removal before the injection pump is what the priming pump and bleed bolts on the injection pump are there for.
The filter priming process with air bleeding done at the two bleed bolts on the pump will get the lion's share of air. From there and if really necessary, you can loosen each injector line at the injector about 1/2 turn and then crank the engine with throttle wide open for 15 seconds. Resecure the flare nuts and crank the engine. It should start within 10 seconds.
-Philip Passed 08May2008
My friend, you are missed . . .
1982 Datsun 720KC SD-22
I won't use ether if the Glow Plugs are connected. However, I will sometimes use ether if the GPs are disconnected. For example, I did a compression test on the '83 LD28 last Sunday, and the GP's bus bar is shot. I screwed all the GPs back in but they are not connected. In order to move the car out of the shop, I used a shot of ether to get it lit off. It sure didn't sound good though.
The big problem with using a starting aid is that the timing of combustion isn't controlled, and it always fires too early in the cycle, which greatly stresses the parts. However, with a hot GP, you get an even nastier explosion and sometimes broken parts -- like busted pistons and bent rods. This is not uncommon.
Those of us who had to use ether to start farm tractors have to un-learn.
