SD22 needed!

[dealie]

So I bought this - http://nissandiesel.dyndns.org/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=3663
Turns out the joker hydrolocked the motor, bent two rods, put a hole in the block, let the sleeves + rings + all valves rust to crap and did a horrible job welding the tow bar mounts which failed at 20mph on the way home. BTW, the starter was fine. He had put power to the starter trying to turn over a seized motor for so long it melted the wires.

That being said, I need an SD22. I'm in Pensacola, Florida. I'll pick it up if it's within a few hours drive or I'll pay freight.

[plenzen]

Welcome to the forum.

You may also try a few forklift places to see if they may have one and also at marine salvage yards for one as well. They were mostly used in sail boat applications.
You can convert the marine engine back to being a truck engine by using your existing bolt on accessories, manifold, alternator, ps pump etc.

Too bad the other one was pooched.

from what your saying the only thing that may be worth keeping is the oil cooler, valve cover, and the fuel pump ?

[dealie]

from what your saying the only thing that may be worth keeping is the oil cooler, valve cover, and the fuel pump ?

Yep, pretty much. The crank seems ok but with two bent rods it might be out of true. If something doesn't materialize in the next few weeks it's getting parted out and scrapped.
I've found one sailboat motor but it's $2000+ The forklift crowd seems to want about the same amount. Are there any relatively simple swaps? Last resort would be turning it into a gasser but I really don't want to do that.

[plenzen]

Look for an SD 25 as well.
It would have to be complete though as not sure the exhaust manifold will swap over to it.
It might but I'm not sure. ( something tells me no though )
You could also look here in Canada as well.
With our dollar worth 40% less than yours right now you may do alright.

Edit
Swapping it to a gasser will require change of bell housing on transmission too.

[ziper1221]

Is the block completely ruined? If not I might have enough parts to put one whole one back together.

[dieseldorf]

Here is one for you, complete with transmission $650.00 hurry.
https://lexington.craigslist.org/pts/5396803369.html
All new guys, please fill out your profile, so we know your location etc..

[dealie]

Is the block completely ruined? If not I might have enough parts to put one whole one back together.

I *think* it's ruined. I'd upload a pic but the block isn't here at my house. A portion of the block and sleeve about the size of a dime broke off at the bottom of a cylinder when a rod bent. I'd call it done because it may have created a hairline crack going up the cylinder. I'd rather not risk it.
I tried to get a hold of the craigslist guy but no avail yet. I'd really like to go that route.

[dealie]

Here is one for you, complete with transmission $650.00 hurry.
https://lexington.craigslist.org/pts/5396803369.html
All new guys, please fill out your profile, so we know your location etc..

Thanks for the lead. I'm set up to pick it up when the weather clears!

[plenzen]

Keep us posted on the "project"

[dealie]

And still needing an SD22... After giving me his word, the guy in Kentucky is awol.

[Zarghareth]

I have a freshly rebuilt turbocharged SD22 with only 237 miles (just finished the break-in when I took it out of the 720) that I am selling. I waited too long to re-torque the head gasket so that needs to be replaced. I can do that for you (I have a lead on metallic head gaskets for around $100) or you can do it yourself.

The turbo set-up is about as good as it can get on a SD22 and before the rebuild, I put ~35,000 miles (engine had ~200,000 miles on it before the turbo) on it as a daily driver. Everything is there, you just have to drop it in and mount the auxiliary oil stuff and away you roar! Also, I put a ton of work into making it look good (spent over $175.00 on sst fasteners alone ) so this isn't your average greasepile SD22. I'm asking $1100 for the whole thing.

Please let me know if you are interested and I can email you pictures. BTW I am in Portland OR.

[waynosworld]

Do you have a build thread on this engine?
This kinda thing always interests me, mostly how you did it and the issues you had.

I have a freshly rebuilt turbocharged SD22 with only 237 miles (just finished the break-in when I took it out of the 720) that I am selling. I waited too long to re-torque the head gasket so that needs to be replaced. I can do that for you (I have a lead on metallic head gaskets for around $100) or you can do it yourself.

The turbo set-up is about as good as it can get on a SD22 and before the rebuild, I put ~35,000 miles (engine had ~200,000 miles on it before the turbo) on it as a daily driver. Everything is there, you just have to drop it in and mount the auxiliary oil stuff and away you roar! Also, I put a ton of work into making it look good (spent over $175.00 on sst fasteners alone ) so this isn't your average greasepile SD22. I'm asking $1100 for the whole thing.

Please let me know if you are interested and I can email you pictures. BTW I am in Portland OR.

[Nissan_Ranger]

I have a 'greasepile' original unrestored SD22 engine (less fan, generator and starter) I think I'd let go. Running when I got it and kept it in my garage as a spare ever since. Problem is I live in a rural area with poor access to transport.

N_R

[Zarghareth]

[quote="waynosworld"]Do you have a build thread on this engine?
This kinda thing always interests me, mostly how you did it and the issues you had.

I don't have a build thread per-say (see last line) but I'll tell you a bit about the issues. The tricky part was getting the IP control perfected. It was a long and bumpy road to get there but I guess I'll share my secrets anyway

Here is how I did it:

The forward (towards front of engine) side of the diaphragm goes to boost (taken from adjacent to BOV) with a Parker hydraulic control needle valve in-line.

The rear side of the diaphragm goes to the venturi generator on the stock throttle body.

Here is why it works:
The control rack of the IP, when pulled-on, causes the pump to deliver a greater volume of fuel per stroke. Therefore boost routed to the front half of the diaphragm will cause more fuel to be delivered the higher the boost pressure is. The needle valve is simply a tunable restriction used to scale the fuel delivery curve (naturally formed by the engine/turbo combo) to the optimal magnitude. The vacuum to the rear side actuates the rack when there is no boost. If you don't do the vacuum in addition to the boost, it is super sluggish revving from idle.

I have tons of pictures of the build and the engine in its current state but they are on my girlfriend's phone right now so I wont post them here. I will be posting them when I make my "for sale" thread for the engine. In the meantime, if you want to see, PM me and I can email them to you.

Also, I posted a thread in users rigs a long time ago (My SD22 Turbo Build) and some stuff on the 11-14 pages of "This is The Bomb With Turbo"

[waynosworld]

I have a turbodiesel myself with an inline injection pump, I have tried working with it two ways, one caused the EGTs to run way to hot, I could not drive it that way, it was always pushing 1400 degrees, the other way that I have it now it averages below 1000 degrees, but I believe I have had two issues, one is that it is not getting enough fuel but is getting enough to operate normal for the most part, the other is that when I let off the pedal I have had as much as 10psi vacuum which was pulling oil thru the turbo seal and pumping it into the engine, I have mostly solved this vacuum issue with a home made valve I made that lets air into the engine when I let off the pedal, since it is not getting anymore fuel, it acts normal, but I still have one or two psi vacuum.
My throttle body is in front of the turbo now, it used to be in the stock position, but the EGTs just ran too hot and I gave up on that version, it sat for a year while I thought about it, then I switched it to what I have now, it runs real good except for it needs a little more fuel as with the throttle body in front of the turbo the venturi is always seeing vacuum even when floored, I was of the opinion that the throttle body was to close to the turbo, but have not been motivated to change it as it runs so good, I thought about putting the inner cooler between the throttle body and the turbo to see if that would help as the inner cooler is not even being used right now, as it rarely gets above 1200 degrees.
You have given me an idea that I will try in the next few weeks.
I would appreciate seeing how you did it, I live in Vancouver WA across the river from Portland OR, is the engine/truck in Portland, I could drive mine over to look at yours and you could look at mine.
I read your turbo thread a long time ago, as with all them threads it seemed like you had issues that never got solved and the thread died like all the other threads I read died when things didn't work out, I have been trying all sorts of ways myself that didn't work, this version I have is the best so far, I can daily drive this version without the worry of cooking the engine, I will PM you with my email.

Do you have a build thread on this engine?
This kinda thing always interests me, mostly how you did it and the issues you had.

I don't have a build thread per-say (see last line) but I'll tell you a bit about the issues. The tricky part was getting the IP control perfected. It was a long and bumpy road to get there but I guess I'll share my secrets anyway

Here is how I did it:

The forward (towards front of engine) side of the diaphragm goes to boost (taken from adjacent to BOV) with a Parker hydraulic control needle valve in-line.

The rear side of the diaphragm goes to the venturi generator on the stock throttle body.

Here is why it works:
The control rack of the IP, when pulled-on, causes the pump to deliver a greater volume of fuel per stroke. Therefore boost routed to the front half of the diaphragm will cause more fuel to be delivered the higher the boost pressure is. The needle valve is simply a tunable restriction used to scale the fuel delivery curve (naturally formed by the engine/turbo combo) to the optimal magnitude. The vacuum to the rear side actuates the rack when there is no boost. If you don't do the vacuum in addition to the boost, it is super sluggish revving from idle.

I have tons of pictures of the build and the engine in its current state but they are on my girlfriend's phone right now so I wont post them here. I will be posting them when I make my "for sale" thread for the engine. In the meantime, if you want to see, PM me and I can email them to you.

Also, I posted a thread in users rigs a long time ago (My SD22 Turbo Build) and some stuff on the 11-14 pages of "This is The Bomb With Turbo"