plenzen wrote:What was it that you changed ? Did you wind the smoke screw out ?
I messed with mine as it was smoking too much all the time it seemed.
A 1/2 turn "out" was a LOT.
It quit smoking but would do as yours is doing and just laid down with any kind of a hill at all.
I wound it back in 1/8th of a turn and that solved the problem.
That screw is very sensitive and all you need do ( if that is what you changed ) is to wind it back in just a little bit at a time. Try a 1/16th each go.
I just know that the way it was doesn't work, at least it doesn't work for me, the EGTs get way to hot which I expect was from way to much fuel(rack in the floored position all the time), it worked fine around town where your foot wasn't into the pedal for long, but on the hiway it would get hot, it would reach 1400 degrees just entering the freeway getting up to speed.
Larry drove this engine like it was fragile, he drove 50/55mph on the freeway, I really don't see the point of having a turbo if one is going to drive like that, my Datsun 521 kingcab with an SD25 in it will go faster than this truck, granted the 521 doesn't weigh as much, but this thing will not even go 70mph on level ground right now, before it would get really hot trying even with an inner-cooler(EGTs), now it will go faster than before, but it doesn't get hot, now it just feels like it's not getting enough fuel, it doesn't smoke at all, even when floored it doesn't smoke.
Short version, he had the throttle body after the turbo(air filter/turbo/ inner-cooler/throttle body), I now have it before the turbo(air filter/throttle body/turbo), and it runs cooler without the inner-cooler now, but I have another issue now, I have almost 10psi vacuum when I let off the pedal, I need to address this issue, as I am sucking oil thru the turbo seal into the intake manifold, I have bought a blow off valve of sorts, it is supposed to open when it senses a vacuum, I am going to install this valve between the turbo and intake manifold, when I let off the pedal it will open and let air in removing the vacuum issue, but there is a possibility that it might have an effect on the IP rack, but since the turbo is so close to the throttle body I believe that it will still draw enough air thru the venturi to pull the rack to the idle position as the butterfly is not open.
I still don't know if this is going to work, and I am also of the opinion that the IP has a forklift type governor setting, as when I get close to 2500rpms I hit what seems to be a wall, this truck has 330 gears in the rear end, so I can go even with that low governor setting, but I need fuel and no oil in the system, I am waiting for the vacuum sensing valve mount to be welded to a tube, as I do not have the equipment to weld aluminum or stainless steel.
The valve has 3 fittings, the two of them go to the intake manifold to sense vacuum, the other(optional) goes to the turbo to sense boost, it is set for 7psi boost, I can live with that right now, if I want to have more than 7psi boost, then I have to pipe that 3rd fitting to the turbo, it has the two other large openings, one going to the intake system, the other is open to the air, the guy said if this works and it is sucking in air, I will need to add a filter to that opening.
I was having a lot of issues with the way Larry set it up, the rack is so sensitive that I could not hold a steady speed, that issue is gone now, and so is the EGT heat issue so far, 1100 degrees is the highest I have seen so far going up a hill.
My friend that went to school for diesel engines told me to start unscrewing that smoke /smog screw, he suggested just removing it, I am just going to baby step it, a half or full turn at a time, so that I don't get lost, but first I need to fix the vacuum issue, I had one of the hoses suck itself flat and stay flat, the engine tried running away, but it could not get air, so I put it in gear and killed it.
