82 Maxima diesel poor acceleration

General information about the first-generation Nissan Maxima in the US. What was the Datsun 810 became the luxury leader Maxima in the US in 1981.

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Duaneclark
Posts: 87
Joined: 7 years ago
Location: Peyton Colorado

82 Maxima diesel poor acceleration

#1

Post by Duaneclark » 7 years ago

My 82 Maxima with automatic has very poor acceleration from a full stop up to highway speeds. I can compare the acceleration with another similar car I own, so I'm sure there is some problem. My question is this;could the automatic transmission be causing this drag?, as the engine seems to run just fine. Once up to speed, it seems to do fine also. I had a GM automatic that was bad once dragging down the acceleration, and this seems similar. Thanks, Duane
Duane

Dr. Jones
Posts: 125
Joined: 14 years ago
Location: Raleigh NC

#2

Post by Dr. Jones » 6 years ago

It seems like that would make sense if the tranny isn't "locking up" and transferring the energy to the wheels. I would try to rule out as many other possible causes before moving ahead on the tranny, i.e. are the brakes sticking is the injection timing correct, etc. Or someone else might know a quick way to confirm or rule out the tranny. Let me know what you find out.
'82 Maxima Sedan x2
'92 Saab 9000 Griffin Edition Wrecked
'80 Ford E100(twisted tranny) SCRAPPED

dieselfink
Posts: 11
Joined: 6 years ago
Location: pauls valley oklahoma

#3

Post by dieselfink » 6 years ago

First off I would go to the simple things air filter, fuel filter, then if there not clogged it gets more tricky fuel flow, air flow, timing, compression, is it smoking if so what color grey black? Keep in mind if its stock it has around 90hp :) u said once it gets up to speed it does fine?? Whats the similar car ur comparing to on acceleration?
83 maxi, ld28, fire ringed, copper head gasket, 5 angle valve job, ported head, coustom turbo flange, gt28r ball bearing turbo 20psi of boost@1250degrees, timing bumped, full load screwed, cold air, straight piped, 308k miles..for now

rlaggren
Posts: 541
Joined: 12 years ago
Location: San Francisco

#4

Post by rlaggren » 6 years ago

Did the Max previously perform better for you?

Ditto what are you comparing it to? The diesel Max is a slow car, albeit not quite as slow as some old NA Mercedes. Comparing it to a gasser is apples and oranges. The only reports of wonderful power I ever heard for the LD28 are from people who put them in a 240Z - which weighs in at about 2400# IIRC - a much lighter car than the Max.

Rufus
82 Maxima wagon

dieselfink
Posts: 11
Joined: 6 years ago
Location: pauls valley oklahoma

#5

Post by dieselfink » 6 years ago

A very good comparison to the Max would be a 300d Turbo 4 door car both about exactley the same in acceleration when my car was stock the 300d got me off the line then we evened out and I got em at about 70-80 or so
83 maxi, ld28, fire ringed, copper head gasket, 5 angle valve job, ported head, coustom turbo flange, gt28r ball bearing turbo 20psi of boost@1250degrees, timing bumped, full load screwed, cold air, straight piped, 308k miles..for now

rlaggren
Posts: 541
Joined: 12 years ago
Location: San Francisco

#6

Post by rlaggren » 6 years ago

So to be clear:

1) The Max previous performed better than it does now, and you know this because you timed it back then against the 300d car you own and now when you time it against the 300d it doesn't do well?

2) You have modified the Max sometime after the positive comparison to the 300d and the problem has appeared since your modifications?

Rufus
82 Maxima wagon

Duaneclark
Posts: 87
Joined: 7 years ago
Location: Peyton Colorado

Thanks for answers!

#7

Post by Duaneclark » 6 years ago

Thanks for the comments. For a long time there were no replies, and I haven't logged in, for a while, (sorry), and was surprised to see the action. this car was a new purchase, and it just pulls slow from a start, as if somethings holding it back, and it reminded me of a Chevy with a bad transmission that did that. I've compared it to an identical Maxima with auto trans too, and the identical car pulls strong taking off. I thought if there was a known problem with the transmission dragging someone would mention it. To continue, it does smoke excessively, (black), too much fuel of course, but it runs very smooth, and is a low mileage car, so it just can't have low compression. It's getting plenty of fuel, (black smoke), clean air filter, but haven't checked the timing. At this point I'm thinking possibly timing, also it had a new Injection pump belt installed, so not sure if it was done correctly. With winter here I probably won't do much more at this point. Thanks again.
Duane

rlaggren
Posts: 541
Joined: 12 years ago
Location: San Francisco

#8

Post by rlaggren » 6 years ago

If you don't know the history of the car it's worth checking everything. Search the forum for "intake gunk"; if the intake has filled up then you might not be getting much air even though the filter is clean.

The black smoke is not typical and if it's not getting air into the cylinders it certainly wouldn't perform well. Having a brain fade right now, but I _think_ that the 83 had an intake throttle plate hooked up to the EGR system; that could cause problems. But maybe that was a different vehicle.

Rufus
82 Maxima wagon

Carimbo
Posts: 459
Joined: 14 years ago

Re: Thanks for answers!

#9

Post by Carimbo » 6 years ago

Duaneclark wrote:...it had a new Injection pump belt installed, so not sure if it was done correctly...
Did the problem start after installing the new IP belt? The marks on the IP cogged pulley can be confusing.

Duaneclark
Posts: 87
Joined: 7 years ago
Location: Peyton Colorado

#10

Post by Duaneclark » 6 years ago

This I don't know as the previous owner had the belt installed. I can see that the belt timing, and injection pump timing, and the "intake gunk" are some areas to investigate, but will probably have to wait for warm weather in the spring to start this project. Thanks!
Duane

Dr. Jones
Posts: 125
Joined: 14 years ago
Location: Raleigh NC

#11

Post by Dr. Jones » 6 years ago

Aftering hearing IP belt was replaced, if I could only do one thing to the car it would be to time it. Search this forum for IP timing threads, fairly in depth as there is very little clearance to attach your dial indicator. Where are you located? What is a low mileage Maxima? Would you consider selling it?
'82 Maxima Sedan x2
'92 Saab 9000 Griffin Edition Wrecked
'80 Ford E100(twisted tranny) SCRAPPED

Duaneclark
Posts: 87
Joined: 7 years ago
Location: Peyton Colorado

Poor acceleration Maxima diesel

#12

Post by Duaneclark » 6 years ago

Thanks, but plan to keep the car, I don't remember the mileage, but for the year it's low. I have planned to check "all of the above" and the timing is top of the list. One of the projects I've undertaken was to find the correct dial indicator timing gauge, and this I've done, I've reported on this recently here in the forum. Alas, I don't have a heated indoor facility to work on my car, so now I'm waiting for springtime warm weather to continue. Thanks, Duane
Duane

Duaneclark
Posts: 87
Joined: 7 years ago
Location: Peyton Colorado

Good grief, I forgot to mention:

#13

Post by Duaneclark » 6 years ago

I am located in Colorado, by Colorado Springs, our elevation is close to 7 thousand feet, and although we haven't had much snow, it's certainly been cold. Duane
Duane

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asavage
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#14

Post by asavage » 6 years ago

Having just spent seven months in the Thornton/Ft. Collins area, I know what you mean by "it smokes". Almost every diesel I saw in my stay there smoked badly (badly by sea-level standards I'm used to).

What you describe sounds like it could be a failed torque converter in the trans. While not as common a failure as in days gone by, it does still happen.

The failure is of a locked stator clutch, IIRC. This prevents the torque converter from producing, well, torque multiplication and gives very poor acceleration but fine performance when you're up to speed.

So, yes, it could be the AT, though I've never heard of this particular failure on the 71b ATs.

If you need a transmission, I believe I still have a couple in storage. Look over at the Peddle & Procure It forum.

[later]

Scratch that, all I have are L4N71b transmissions, which will not fit your '82 floor pan.

The diesel has its own special torque converter, different from the one supplied for the gasser.

There's a stall test procedure in the FSM
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.

User avatar
asavage
Site Admin
Posts: 5329
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Location: Duvall, Wash.
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#15

Post by asavage » 6 years ago

Having just spent seven months in the Thornton/Ft. Collins area, I know what you mean by "it smokes". Almost every diesel I saw in my stay there smoked badly (badly by sea-level standards I'm used to).

What you describe sounds like it could be a failed torque converter in the trans. While not as common a failure as in days gone by, it does still happen.

The failure is of a failed/slipping stator clutch, IIRC. This prevents the torque converter from producing, well, torque multiplication and gives very poor acceleration but fine performance when you're up to speed.

So, yes, it could be the AT, though I've never heard of this particular failure on the 71b ATs.

If you need a transmission, I believe I still have a couple in storage. Look over at the Peddle & Procure It forum.

[later]

Scratch that, all I have are L4N71b transmissions, which will not fit your '82 floor pan.

The diesel has its own special torque converter, different from the one supplied for the gasser.

There's a stall test procedure in the FSM.

1982 FSM AT-38 & AT-39

Image

Image
STALL TESTING
The stall test is an effective method of testing clutch and band holding ability, torque converter one-way clutch operation, and engine performance. A stall test should only be performed as a last resort because of the high fluid temperature it generates and the excessive load it places on the engine and transmission.
-----------------------------------------
CAUTION:
a. Transmission and engine fluid levels should always be checked and fluid added as needed.
b. Run engine at 1,200 rpm to attain proper warm-up.
c. During test, never hold throttle wide-open for more than 5 seconds.
d. Do Not test more than two gear ranges without driving car to cool off engine and transmission.

STALL TEST PROCEDURE
1. Install a tachometer where it can be seen by driver during test.
2. Set hand brake and block wheels.
3. Start engine and place shift lever in "D" range.
4. Apply foot brake and accelerate to wide-open throttle. Do not hold throttle open longer than five seconds.
5. Quickly note the engine stall speed and immediately release throttle.
Stall revolution: 1,800 -2,100 rpm
6. Place shift lever in "R" range and repeat above test (same as in "D" range).

If stall test indicates proper stall revolution in "D" range, no further testing is necessary.

STALL TEST ANALYSIS
1. Satisfactory results in "D" range indicates forward clutch (Rear), one-way clutch of transmission, and sprag clutch of torque converter, are functioning properly.
2. Stall revolution in "D" range, 1st gear, is above specified revolution: The forward clutch (Rear) is faulty.
3. Stall revolution in "R" range is above specified revolution (for "D" range); Low and Reverse Brakes are faulty.
4. Stall revolution in "D" range, 1st gear is below specified revolution: Converter sprag clutch is faulty (slipping), or engine is not performing properly.

If converter sprag clutch is frozen, car will have poor high speed performance. If converter sprag clutch is slipping, car will be sluggish up to 50 or 60 km/h (30 or 40 MPH).
(sorry for the odd sized scans)

So, to perform this test, you'll need a diesel tachometer. Have the engine & trans up to temp (requires actually driving the car). Put trans in D, watch tach, mash accel to the floor for four-five seconds or until the engine speed stabilizes.

If the engine can't get to 1800 RPM, either the engine lacks power or the torque converter's sprag clutch is slipping.
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.

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