Diesel tachometer

General information about the first-generation Nissan Maxima in the US. What was the Datsun 810 became the luxury leader Maxima in the US in 1981.

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asavage
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#16

Post by asavage » 12 years ago

Some random alternator notes:

In order to add this stator tap, you should have the rotor oil seal in hand before beginning. It should always be replaced. I would generically recommend brushes replacement too, because they're cheap and you have to R&R them anyway.

Getting the alternator out of the car (ie unbolting the vacuum pump from the alt's rear housing) is the worst of it. I'm lucky in that when I took it apart years ago, I installed socket-head 6mm bolts instead of phillips head, so I can use an allen wrench to remove the three horizontal bolts. If you can remove those three screws, leave the vacuum pump in the car, and leave all the oil and vacuum lines alone, it's a lot easier. But if the three phillips head screws won't come out, you'll have to disconnect the (5?) vacuum lines and both oil lines and take the thing out as an assembly.
Image Image

The alt's lower front bolt (17mm head on mine) is easiest removed after slackening the alt belt. But both lower bolts should be tightened on installation.
Image

I have stripped out the threads on the top (belt tension adjusting) hole on two of these things, so I automatically install an 8mmx1.25 helicoil in them while I have them out.

Check the diode pack for burned or broken output diodes (see the diode pictures in this post) . . . never mind, I'll copy the pics here, but the part No. info is there. Next two pics of an LR150 (SD engines):

Image Image


These two pics are from the Nissan-supplied, Hitachi-rebuilt LR160 in my '82 Wagon, which failed about six weeks ago, due to this diode physically failing:
Image Image

If you have the OEM diodes, strongly consider replacing it for the aftermarket style with more robust diodes (I have pics, but not processed yet; also have aftermarket part No.).

If the alternator's been rebuilt by someone other than Hitachi, it'll probably have the better diode assy. :roll:


On installation, the vacuum pump's rotor wants to slide out of position, making insertion of the rotor's splined shaft difficult, even though it's chamfered. I've found that rotating the rotor while inserting seems to spin the pump's rotor up into position and align the splines. Moderate pressure during insertion seems to help.
Image

Every Hitachi LR series alternator that I've worked with seems to have some kind of bastard/universal noise suppression cap on the B+ terminal. I say "bastard" because the cap's ground fork doesn't seem to fit well no matter how you place it. I cut off the last 1/2" so the fork fits over the brush cover screw shank well. The chassis ground wire's lug also mounts to the same screw. If the ground lug is broken, don't neglect to install a new one; this is one of the body-to-engine grounds that keep the more sensitive electrics working correctly -- such as the temp gauge.
Last edited by asavage 6 years ago, edited 1 time in total.
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.

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philip
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#17

Post by philip » 12 years ago

Are those Clarks shoes? :wink:
-Philip
Passed 08May2008
My friend, you are missed . . .

1982 Datsun 720KC SD-22

"Im slow and I'm ahead of you"

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asavage
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#18

Post by asavage » 12 years ago

No. I wore only Clarks shoes for twenty years, until they cheapened the sole material -- I still have a pair that I wear when going out, not at workaday stuff. Clarks were one of the few shoes still using stitched soles at the time.

Those are Target's house brand Cherokee shoes . . . which I can no longer seem to get. I throw away these cheap ($30-60) shoes about every six months. Silly, but it seems impossible to buy quality work shoes that don't look industrial, in the US now. I used to get two years out of a pair of $130 Clarks, with maybe one restitch in there somewhere for $10.
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.

legacyelectric
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Joined: 12 years ago
Location: Western Kansas

#19

Post by legacyelectric » 12 years ago

HI all, I like the looks and feel of the tiny-tach. I want to buy one, but I want to make sure I get the right one would I want to buy the 6mm transducer or the 1/4 transducer

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philip
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#20

Post by philip » 12 years ago

legacyelectric wrote:HI all, I like the looks and feel of the tiny-tach. I want to buy one, but I want to make sure I get the right one would I want to buy the 6mm transducer or the 1/4 transducer
What kind of vehicle you drive? What's you name too? :wink:

Just scroll back to the very top and click on PROFILE. Then put those two item into the "Signature" box. That way we can be sure which transducer size you need. :wink:
-Philip
Passed 08May2008
My friend, you are missed . . .

1982 Datsun 720KC SD-22

"Im slow and I'm ahead of you"

Carimbo
Posts: 459
Joined: 14 years ago

#21

Post by Carimbo » 12 years ago

asavage wrote:Getting the alternator out of the car (ie unbolting the vacuum pump from the alt's rear housing) is the worst of it. I'm lucky in that when I took it apart years ago, I installed socket-head 6mm bolts instead of phillip head, so I can use an allen wrench to remove the three horizontal bolts. If you can remove those three screws, leave the vacuum pump in the car, and leave all the oil and vacuum lines alone. It's a lot easier. But if the three phillips head screws won't come out, you'll have to disconnect the (5?) vacuum lines and both oil lines and take the thing out as an assembly.
Replaced the alternator in mine last week, and found it quite easy to disconnect the vacuum lines via the 24mm banjo bolt; this allows the fitting w/ all the small lines still connected to it to be moved out of the way sufficient for easy removal of the alternator w/ vac pump attached. Also disconnected the oil feed line at the rear of the vac pump by removing its banjo bolt, and the oil return line had a common worm drive hose clamp that was easily loosened. Plugging the oil ports w/ rubber stoppers minimized any oily mess while maneuvering the alternator/vac pump up and out thru the space between the air box/ intake manifold hose and radiator.

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asavage
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#22

Post by asavage » 12 years ago

I remove the intake plenum hose entirely, leaving all the small hoses intact and connected on the engine. I unscrew the three pump-to-alternator screws, leave the pump on the engine and pull the alternator straight up. Only hard part is if you can't loosen the three pump-to-alternator screws, and getting the rotor shaft back into the pump on installation, which requires a little fiddling. Almost no oil loss.
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.

legacyelectric
Posts: 35
Joined: 12 years ago
Location: Western Kansas

#23

Post by legacyelectric » 12 years ago

Yea the car I just got going and want to use the tiny-tack is a 1982 maxima sedan 5 spd tranny

Thanks

Larry Williams
All for sale

982 nissan 5 spd ld28 diesel Maxima sedan just got a new oem tranny installed runs great

1983 wagon ld28 with a 5 spd tranny just put in a new (junk yard) rear-end. runs great also

1982 mercedes 300d

1997 6.5 td 1 ton
1992 6.5 td 3/4 ton
too many others to mention

Carimbo
Posts: 459
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#24

Post by Carimbo » 12 years ago

asavage wrote:I remove the intake plenum hose entirely, leaving all the small hoses intact and connected on the engine. I unscrew the three pump-to-alternator screws, leave the pump on the engine and pull the alternator straight up. Only hard part is if you can't loosen the three pump-to-alternator screws, and getting the rotor shaft back into the pump on installation, which requires a little fiddling. Almost no oil loss.
Thanks, Al, good to know this. If I read you correctly, this R/R alternator method requires a new rotor oil seal for sure, and isn't there also an o-ring to replace there too?

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asavage
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#25

Post by asavage » 12 years ago

LD28 = 6mm injector lines (I just went out and measured one).
Last edited by asavage 12 years ago, edited 1 time in total.
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.

legacyelectric
Posts: 35
Joined: 12 years ago
Location: Western Kansas

#26

Post by legacyelectric » 12 years ago

Thanks Al
Thats great to know

Larry
All for sale

982 nissan 5 spd ld28 diesel Maxima sedan just got a new oem tranny installed runs great

1983 wagon ld28 with a 5 spd tranny just put in a new (junk yard) rear-end. runs great also

1982 mercedes 300d

1997 6.5 td 1 ton
1992 6.5 td 3/4 ton
too many others to mention

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ecomike
Posts: 242
Joined: 13 years ago
Location: Houston Tx

#27

Post by ecomike » 12 years ago

Have any of you tried a Tiny Tach yet, if yes, how about some details?

I am thinking of ordering one. Does any one know the fuel line size on the SD22?
Regards,

Mike

1985 Jeep Cherokee Pioneer, 2WD, retrofitted with SD-22 & 5 spd manual trans, a 4X4 Gas Wagoneer ltd. (XJ) Jeep, 4.0 L w/ AW4 auto, and now 2 spare 2wd Jeeps, 87 & 89.

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asavage
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#28

Post by asavage » 12 years ago

ecomike wrote:Have any of you tried a Tiny Tach yet, if yes, how about some details?

I am thinking of ordering one. Does any one know the fuel line size on the SD22?
Zoltan has installed one on his 720. Continue any discussion of the the 720 tach over in that thread.

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exmod110
Posts: 34
Joined: 13 years ago
Location: Manitoba

#29

Post by exmod110 » 12 years ago

Y not just spend a bit o cash and get a universal type that has a magnet on the crank damper with a pick up that sends an accurate signal up to a matching gauge... I have one on my ld in my landrover... was under 200 at the time... was an easy install too!!
Don

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asavage
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#30

Post by asavage » 12 years ago

Tiny-Tach is US$65 (2005; $95 in 2013), including the pickup.

My alternator mod + tach is going to cost me under $60 (because I bought a very flexible tach from eBay, brand-new), and it's an air-core, analog unit with DIP switches for ranging adjustments, and a fine-tune pot too, plus free online tech support forum with someone who both knows his products well and can type in complete sentences: Beede.

"Under $200" can buy a lot of tach solutions, including yours.
Last edited by asavage 6 years ago, edited 1 time in total.
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.

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