Al Savage's 1983 Sentra 2D CD17

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asavage
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#16

Post by asavage » 12 years ago

leadpaw wrote:where did you get the new oil hose, my local dealership wasnt able to get it at all.
Oil line from block to vacuum pump, 14665-16A10, $30
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The drain line was cheaper, 14670-16A00, $18
You can see from the packaging that it's been sitting around a few years.
Image Image

I had them in four days. Came out of the Nissan distribution warehouse in Memphis.
the throttle butterfly still moves freely with the filter on.It looks like the filter you have has a little more dish on top making the stud sit lower.
Hmmm. OK. Thanks.
Last edited by asavage 12 years ago, edited 1 time in total.
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.

Carimbo
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Intake Grunge

#17

Post by Carimbo » 12 years ago

redmondjp wrote:Apparently going to the ULSD fuel has cut down on the amount of intake buildup that occurs.
That may explain why my car has not been giving the brown billowing belches in almost a year.

Al, did you notice any performance difference after cleaning out the intake?

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asavage
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#18

Post by asavage » 12 years ago

I'm still awaiting arrival of the rear engine mount, so it has been up on jackstands since Sunday, 06Jul.

And I drove it so little before I took it apart (less than a mile, really), that chances are good I won't notice any difference. With the broken motor mount and singing wheel brg, it wasn't really driveable.
redmondjp wrote:Apparently going to the ULSD fuel has cut down on the amount of intake buildup that occurs.
First I've heard of that. That's not really intuitive: ULSD removes sulfur, not anything (AFAIK) that could be associated with cleaner-burning outside of SO2 reduction. The reduction of sulfur in the fuel (and of SO in the exhaust stream) allows use of particulate traps, reducing traps, and NOx catalysts, but I'd think that the EGR is upstream from those; therefore, I wouldn't think that soot reduction in the EGR stream is reduced by ULSD.

Biodiesel exhaust, however, is a different story :)

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#19

Post by asavage » 12 years ago

Rear motor mount arrived. Note the date of 2004:

Image Image Image Image

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#20

Post by asavage » 12 years ago

Old rear motor mount versus new. Note the redesign.
(click on any image for larger)
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Bracket on left bolts to the floor pan. Bracket on lower of pic is the exhaust support. While in theory that exhaust support bracket does not have to be removed, it was slightly bent and missing one of its three bolts, and removing it made it easier to get to the upper motor mount nut.
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One of the two shifter tube support cradle mounts. Delaminated on both surfaces.
Image Image Image
Last edited by asavage 12 years ago, edited 1 time in total.

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leadpaw
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#21

Post by leadpaw » 12 years ago

yea i found the redesign interesting when i received my mount. Considering the recent manufacturing date i wonder if the mount was adapted to a new car and the b11-d, or was the redesign a really late afterthought.
Image
1985 diesel sentra

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asavage
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#22

Post by asavage » 12 years ago

Argh! The dreaded GPC again. What is the deal with Nissan GPC deterioration?

I insured the Sentra today, so I suppose I'll actually drive it soon.

I've been moving it into and out of the shop for the past couple of weeks, and I suspected that the GPs were not getting long enough glow (but only sometimes) and not getting afterglow (substantial cold misfire).

I put a 12v test light on the GP bus and found satisfactory GP glow on a cold key ON. However, if I glowed for only a couple of seconds, turned the key OFF then back ON, no glow!

If I leave the key OFF for about forty seconds, the GPC resets and will turn on the GP Relay No. 1 when the key is ON again.

Also, no afterglow.

First step was to add an in-car glow plug indicator, and a momentary-contact pushbutton:
(click on any image for larger)
Image Image

The indicator is wired to the end of the GP bus bar, so it shows actual state of the GP bus, not just that the GPC toggled a relay somewhere.

The pushbutton provides trigger power to the GP Relay No. 1.

Next, I went chasing the "no afterglow" problem. Found the GPC:
Image
Image


It took a lot longer to decide that the afterglow relay on the PCB is bad, because the trigger transistor seemed to not conduct correctly with the bad relay in circuit (no idea why). I did a very fast/ugly job of rigging a spare low-current relay in, and in testing I now have afterglow ;)

Image Image

I don't think I can find a small relay that can be mounted to that PCB and still fit it all inside the black plastic case, so I'll probably de-solder it, bore a hole in the case, and glue the relay to the outside. Meanwhile, at least I know what's wrong with it.

The relay that drives GP Relay No. 1 is much larger; it's the blue box in the pic above.

For my future reference:
  • GP Relay No. 1 is fed 12v+ by the GPC; conversely . . .
  • GP Relay No. 2 (afterglow) has its ground completed by the GPC.
[a few minutes later]
Everyone here knows how I love RTV . . .
Image Image Image Image
Last edited by asavage 12 years ago, edited 3 times in total.
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.

davehoos
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#23

Post by davehoos » 12 years ago

Shifter lever: 34562-return spring.
there is a rework on this spring on N13 to reduce noise, possibly 34573-01A10, $3.

Image

the spring used to fall off or vibrate and the stick flops sidways when driving.
new type spring had tubing on outside and a solid plastic piece inside.
WCJR31 Skyline.3.0 manual.wagon
R31 SKYLINE/Passage GT/PINTARA
LPG Ford Falcon 99-06 93 Disco
Local Shire Southern Zone Mechanic.

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asavage
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#24

Post by asavage » 12 years ago

Wiper arm pivot replacement: for the left side, you don't have to unbolt anything except the wiper arm and the big nut on the plastic pivot housing.

(click on any image for larger)
Image Image Image Image Image


The EGR Controller is under the driver's seat. The carpets smell bad.

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Removed the seatbelts (front and back), brake console, shift console, seats, etc. (about two hours). About 90 minutes with a garden hose, a sponge, and a quart of Simple Green. In warm weather with a small breeze, and with the floor plugs removed, the interiour was pretty much dry in three hours (all doors/trunk open). I Shop-Vac'd the bottoms of the rear quarters (their drain plugs are not quite at the bottom) and used compressed air under the front seat rail where a couple of tablespoons of water was trapped. Padding on firewall will have to dry for a while more.

Image Image Image Image
Interesting notes: the paint on the right side floor is barely adhered to the metal, and compressed air ripped large chunks of paint off (and scattered them in the driveway). Left side front floor is not painted, it's rubberized or something (thicker than paint). Only the left front!


Took the front & rear carpets to the car wash, spent $10 on washing them; they are now drying, sitting at a 30° angle on pallets with a fan blowing on them.


Fuel door/Trunk release lever assy. is supposed to be attached to the left rocker, but the holes were stripped.

Image

I bought some 10-32 blind nut inserts, installed them and have two good holes now.
Image Image Image
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.

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asavage
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#25

Post by asavage » 12 years ago

Carpets: they smell like two-month-old dirty laundry. I had removed them, blasted $10 worth of hot soapy water at the topside of them at the car wash, drizzled $30 of Lysol & Simple Green on the backside padding, and they still smell bad. I give up.

Carpet kits are available for this Sentra, at around $190 shipped. I am not in a position to be buying $200 of carpeting right now, so I just bolted in the driver's seat and belt anchor.

----------------

The antenna is Sentra-only and unavailable in the aftermarket. $23 at the dealer, took a few days to get, fits perfectly.

Drove it for the first real trip yesterday, home (15 miles), bad vibration from rear at high speeds. Max reasonable speed is 50 MPH before the vibration gets scary. At 52+ it's just too bad to drive. Almost no shaking at the steering wheel. I got it to Les Schwab (PNW tire store chain) today to have the rear tires checked (did not have a chance to hoist the rear and check the rims for runout, due to hot-starting problem). As soon as I got back to work, they called and said the LR wheel brgs were shot but no tread separation. I walked back to them, they gave me an estimate for new LR wheel brgs of something over $100.

I drove it back to the shop, pulled the LR drum and the brgs, they are clean and nice, but someone must have pulled the drum for a brake inspection at some point and when they put it back on, left the spindle nut about three turns too loose!

Cleaned, repacked brgs. Wheel seal is unavailable via NAPA (that is, they have two part Nos. and neither are in the distribution system). I've printed out the Nissan No. and will order a pair tomorrow. Meanwhile, I re-installed the old seal to get me by.

Leading shoe is almost paper-thin, so brake reline (and probably wheel cylinders) are in the near future.

The fuel needle was getting very far left, so I filled the tank before heading home tonight: brimmed, 8.0 gallons and $37. A nice change from $93 to fill the Aero every week. But no radio, no A/C, no PDL, no PW, etc. etc. I am spoiled.

Trip home: shaking no better. Another drop-off at Les Schwab tomorrow, maybe they'll actually pull the tires off the car this time. Sigh.
Last edited by asavage 12 years ago, edited 1 time in total.
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.

rlaggren
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#26

Post by rlaggren » 12 years ago

>carpets...

Might try heat. As I understand it, 110+ F. starts killing things; the lower the temp the longer it takes so if they can go into a commercial dryer that hasn't been neutered that might be the quick way - maybe 45 min? Guess it depends on whether you degrade the backing at high temp and how much that matters.

Or maybe just soak them in chlorine bleach for an hour and accept the results? As it is you've got a pretty free hand. <g>

Rufus
82 Maxima wagon

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asavage
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#27

Post by asavage » 12 years ago

The carpets are on thick plastic backing: carpet pile above, padding below. Nowhere near flexible enough to put in even a commercial dryer. I might buy a kiddy pool and throw one in with bleach. For $200, I can have a new carpet set (though not in brown), but this car doesn't warrant that.

===========================================

Vibration: the next day, after dealing with the wheel brgs, I took the car back to Les Schwab and dropped it off, asking again to have the rear tires balanced. I called six hours later, got told again that the wheel brgs are loose and the tires are "old" and "out of round". The tires condition is not news to me, but maybe the kids working there aren't aware that vehicles this old do not have preloaded wheel brgs.

Day after, I go to work early, pull the rear tires off and throw them in my service van, drive them over to Schwab and ask for them to be balanced "loose" like that. I waited, and talked to the guy doing the balancing whilst he was doing it. He stated they were both way out of balance (no, really?!). No charge (one tire was their house brand). Took them back to work, put them on, no vibration up to 60, and then the fronts start a bit, but the fronts are off-brand rim protectors and I don't expect much from them. No vibration in the rear anymore.

So that much is done. Aggravating, that they refused to do what I asked for twice. Schwab is, literally, the only game in town though. The next nearest tire store or service center is well over 30 miles away.

=================================================

This engine is worn out. It starts up without drama fine in 55°F mornings. The GP button is wired to cooperate with the OEM GP controller, so I get the usual cold GP cycle and afterglow time. When the afterglow kicks off (I can tell by the GP light I added, see above), I must manually cycle the GPs more, or I get moderate to severe cold misfire and smoke. If I run the GPs for three or four seconds on, eight or ten off, it runs smoothly with no smoke cold.

The cold idle seemed fast enough, but the hot idle was too fast. I had to back off both the curb idle screw and the one on the CSD to get a satisfactory hot idle. Now I have a good, low hot idle and way to low cold idle. I assume that, like my '82 Maxima Wagon, the CSD thermostatic device is frozen. Pity.

But with the new, lower hot idle, engine braking is a LOT better, and I'm not on the brakes but about a third as much as previously.

I've driven it exactly one week, 202 miles, have used slightly less than 1/2 tank of fuel (indicated, so that doesn't mean anything, but the needle is still to the right of 12 o'clock) on a 8+ gallon tank, which does put me in the 45-55 MPG range.

Trouble is, I've used over a half-quart of engine oil to go 200 miles. Yeah, it smokes -- badly, if the EGR system is working; a bit less badly if I disconnect the throttle butterfly solenoid wire. It also warm/hot starts better in the latter configuration.

Twice last week, I've had the engine run away (accelerate with foot off the pedal). Both times in the driveway, idling. Both times with the EGR system active (ie throttle butterfly closed at idle). I've experimented with connecting/disconnecting that device over the past week, have decided to leave it open. With it connected, I get smoke even going downhill!

The short story is the engine appears worn out. As I'm stuck with it, if the fuel mileage is as good as I need, I may just pour a quart of oil in the engine at every fill-up and run the wheels off of it, as it has little value else.

I was really hoping for better.
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.

goglio704
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#28

Post by goglio704 » 12 years ago

Any possibility the rings are stuck? Maybe the PO didn't use good oil? I've never seen it myself, but I've often heard of stuck rings freeing up with the usage of good oil. Maybe an imaginary phenomenon? Dunno.
Matt B.

83 Maxima Sedan, LD28, 5 speed, white, 130k miles. My original Maxima.
83 Maxima Sedan converted from gasser, LD28, 5 speed, 2 tone blue, 230k miles
82 Maxima Sedan, LD28, 3 speed auto, 2 tone Gray/Silver, 140k miles
81 810 Sedan, LD28, 3 speed auto, rust, rust, and more rust!

2005 Jeep Liberty CRD

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asavage
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#29

Post by asavage » 12 years ago

I guess it's possible. I've put 270 miles on it with AMSOil oil. It does not appear to be improving. But the fuel mileage is fantastic.

plenzen
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#30

Post by plenzen » 12 years ago

What about a simple push button to start one of those 15 second timers wired to fire the afterglow relay again after it shuts off? Then just let it cycle for that additional time. How about some of the "witch craft" in a can additives. Z/Max, CD, Lucas Oil Conditioner, etc etc.? Cant really hurt at this point can it?
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