Diesel to Biodiesel Q&A

[leislened]

Hello to all
I need some pointers on converting a Nissan ld20II turbo engine to burn BIOdiesel. I know about hose and copper fittings. What about the rest of the fuel system. Carb, fuel tank and what not???? Is there kits I can buy? Who can clean the fuel tank or do I slowly move up from b20 to b50. I have been reading so many things and I want to convert but not brake the bank (in fuel filters). I would love to talk to"asavage".Pt is my old stomping ground and my cousins still live there . Input is very welcome. Regards Jef

[asavage]

Hello, Jef:

I need some pointers on converting a Nissan ld20II turbo engine to burn BIOdiesel.

Be aware that, other than our friend in AU, davehoos, most of us have never even seen an LD20II or the T variant, other than in pictures. It's an engine that, TTBOMK, was never imported to the US for use in anything road-going, and possibly not for anything at all. They are being imported as used engines now from a couple outfits in FL. They do not appear to share many parts with the LD28 (certainly not the head, oil pump, belt drive). With that out of the way . . .

I know about hose and copper fittings. What about the rest of the fuel system. Carb, fuel tank and what not????

No carburetor on 99.9% of diesels still running today. There are exceptions, but the LD series is not one of them.

Is there kits I can buy?

Yes. If you need hand-holding, they might be worth the money. Personally, I prefer to do a bit of research and make my own misteaks, but to each her own.

The "kits" I've seen are just hoses & clamps, sometimes filters, sometimes gaskets too, depending on the application. There will be no custom kit for your engine, of course. But generic kits will come with some lines and clamps. You can do as well on your own as these "kits".

Who can clean the fuel tank or do I slowly move up from b20 to b50. I have been reading so many things and I want to convert but not brake the bank (in fuel filters).

While you will often hear tell of folks having fits with a clogged fuel filter (repeatedly) when switching to BD, I have been involved in the local (Port Townsend) BD community for a number of years and have not found a single verifiable instance of this occurring. If you get bad fuel, sure -- filters clog -- regardless of what kind of fuel. BD is touted for its high solvency, but I have "converted" several vehicles to run on B100 (B99) and kept expecting fuel filter clogging, but after a while I would take the filter off and bandsaw it open, and not once did I find any unexpectedly heavy deposits -- just normal crud.

This might be different on commercial equipment that has seen a lot more use/miles/gallons of PD through it, but based on my experience so far I am not worrying about clogged filters -- when using properly made BD that meets ASTM spec D-6751. If we're talking homebrew here, all bets are off and I'd definitely recommend carrying and stocking spare fuel filters, and being familiar with the change and bleed procedure, so that you can perform it by the side of the road in the dark on a stormy night (as we're having tonight).

What you haven't told us yet is what vehicle you are planning on installing this grey-market hotrod engine into -- or did you import a vehicle with it installed already? If the vehicle was a gasser, the one concern that springs to mind immediately is Zinc. Many gasser fuel tanks that are not plastic are internally galvanized. Diesel (and BD) do not get along with galvanizing, and this is an area where plugged filters are reported to occur. Have the zinc plating removed, if the tank is galvanized inside.

If the vehicle was a diesel, just make sure the fuel filtration is up to modern standards -- 5 microns or less, preferably two micron. The LD28 was designed in an era of 10 micron filtration, so if you shoot for OEM or better, you'll do OK.

Injection pump: read up on revised Viton front shaft seals (be certain to read all eight pages!), and who to beg to get one. I just installed one last night, and it's easy to do on the LD28. I have no idea about degree of difficulty on the LD20IIT -- you will have to tell us

If you plan on running concentrations of BD higher than 20%, there's a possibility that the IP will eventually develop a leak somewhere else. These VE-style IPs (if that's what yours has) are leaky, even with PD. They see internal pressure above 100 PSI, so they have a hard job of holding their fuel. You might want to research resealing your IP, what's involved. Or go directly to having it rebuilt, when the time comes. It's not necessary to deal with it until it begins leaking. But changing the IP front shaft seal when doing belt maintenance is just a no-brainer.

HTH

[leislened]

Thanks Al for the words of wisdom, I need all the help I can get. Being a newbe to the diesel world. From what I have been told " I have long road up hill to go"
Here it goes
1. I'm dropping the engine in question into a 88 Nissan z24 hardbody truck 2wd 5speed.
2. I plan on having a Viton rebuild on the IP at a place in Fife WA ( H&H diesel )
3.This Engine is from AJ out of FL. My sister live's in Boca Raton and checked him out. I will keep you informed as thing progress. So far so good. As leaps of faith go.
4.Fuel tank: I did not relize that zinc was such a problem. How??? to fix that. After market fuel tank liner, Maybe Al.fuel cell, Or sand blast the inside of the old tank. Something to think about. I have some time
5. I forget what 5 is
I will take lots of photos for you of the engine and my progress. Regards and Thanks Jef

[asavage]

I just had a Toyota diesel IP rebuilt by H&H. It looks good so far -- not installed yet.

I don't' know how to remove the zinc offhand. I assume a moderate acid solution may do the job at reasonable cost and safety. I haven't Googled about it yet.

AJ/ExportIntl does not enjoy a stellar reputation. Have your read this thread yet?

[rlaggren]

> remove zinc

Electrolysis would seem worth investigating. Might be able to take the zinc and leave all else.

[leislened]

Thanks guys
I'm looking into tank coating and liners. Need to check MSDS to see if diesel will brake down the epox or what ever is in the product???
I will check out Electrolysis on zinc ....

[Carimbo]

I don't' know how to remove the zinc offhand. I assume a moderate acid solution may do the job at reasonable cost and safety.

I also recall a weak solution of hydrochloric acid to remove the zinc inside the tank (galvanized coatings in general).

[asavage]

This seems to be the most appropriate place to put this . . .

From Biodiesel.org
http://www.biodiesel.org/pdf_files/fuel ... bility.pdf

Materials Compatibility
B100 Material Compatibility
B100 may degrade some hoses, gaskets, seals elastomers, glues and plastics with prolonged exposure. Natural or nitrile rubber compounds, polypropylene, polyvinyl, and Tygon materials are particularly vulnerable. More testing is being done to extend this list of vulnerable materials. Most elastomers used after 1993 are compatible with B100 (Viton/Teflon). Before handling or using neat biodiesel (B100) contact the equipment vendor to determine compatibility with fatty acid methyl esters.

Teflon, Viton, and Nylon have very little reaction to biodiesel and are among the materials that can be used to update incompatible equipment. B100 suppliers and equipment vendors should be consulted to ensure the most recent findings on compatibility. For the bulk fuel handlers of biodiesel it is highly recommended to speak with your hose suppliers to source hoses that are compatible with neat biodiesel.

Most tanks designed to store diesel fuel will be adequate for storing B100. Acceptable storage tank materials include aluminum, steel, fluorinated polyethylene, fluorinated polypropylene, Teflon, and most fiberglasses. Brass, bronze, copper, lead, tin, and zinc may accelerate the oxidation process of biodiesel creating fuel insolubles or gels and salts. Lead solders and zinc linings should be avoided, as should copper pipes, brass regulators, and copper fittings. Affected equipment should be replaced with stainless steel, carbon steel, or aluminum.

B20 Material Compatibility
Biodiesel blends of 20% or less have shown a much smaller effect on these materials. The effects are virtually non¡existent in low¡level blends such as B2. When handling blends of B20 or less normal monitoring of hoses and gaskets for leaks is sufficient.

Blends of B20 and lower reduce the impact of metal compatibility issues. Materials Compatibility Studies The following summaries on material compatibility with biodiesel (methyl Oleate) are taken from research studies and compatibility guides from several o¡ring and seal manufacturers.