D-max up and running!!

Discuss (and cuss) the Nissan LD-series OHC Six diesel engine, popularly available in the US in 1981-83 Datsun/Nissan Maxima Sedans & Wagons.

Moderators: plenzen, goglio704, glenlloyd, Nissan_Ranger

Post Reply
RacnJsn95
Posts: 37
Joined: 12 years ago
Location: Central Point, OR
Contact:

D-max up and running!!

#1

Post by RacnJsn95 » 12 years ago

D-max... Diesel Maxima... Get it? :D Heh, anyway, I wanted to make a new topic for this since it is my car now, it will be easier for me to keep track this way...

I own the 82 Maxima Diesel (auto) from this thread: http://nissandiesel.dyndns.org/viewtopic.php?t=1607... I can't actually confirm the smoking problem as I've only gotten the car to fire for just a second or two. There seems to be a problem with the glow plug system, I'll get into that later...

Quite a few people suggested that the injector pump may be timed wrong, so I did some research, and went to asses the situation. My IP pulley has 3 punch marks on the outside ring. One that is marked "A", another that looks to be marked "B", and a third, which is just a punch with no letter.

Going off this page of the generic LD28 manual, I currently have the cam in the position shown (#1 cyl compression stroke?). I actually went around 3 or 4 times to make sure it was right, and on my last trip around I finally found the mark on the IP belt... Here is a picture of the current situation...

Image

The A mark is currently towards the top as you can see, with the IP belt mark aligned with it... According to everything I've been able to find that is the setting for the LD20, not the LD28, correct? The B mark looks to be 7-8 teeth to the right, and the punch mark with no letters looks be be about opposite of the A punch mark... Very similar to this picture from the 82 FSM:

Image


It looks like the IP was never removed from the engine for the pulley swap mentioned in the previous thread about this car started by the PO, so I'm assuming it is close to where it needs to be.

So this Friday, I'm going to tear the radiator, and v-belt stuff off, and attempt to re-time this beast, but I'm unclear as to which mark I'm really supposed to use? I've seen conflicting info, some saying to use the "B" mark, and some saying to use the "no letter" mark, which is right? From looking at the picture, will I need to remove the pulley, or would I be able to just turn it to the needed mark?


The next problem, being the glow plugs. I don't think the GP system is working properly... Unfortunately I seem to have misplaced my multi-meter, and my wire test light, so I can't really test stuff right now... But if I sit in the car, and turn the key to ON for the GP warm up, most of the time I don't hear the relay click on or off... I'll have to repeat the process 5-10 times to hear a relay noise. Seems like it's hit and miss... Just to get the car to fire for the couple seconds it did, I had to plug in the block warmer for a couple hours... Any suggestions there?

I'd appreciate any help you guys can give me, especially with the IP timing issue.
Last edited by RacnJsn95 11 years ago, edited 1 time in total.
82 Maxima Diesel, Auto 164k
77 620 k/c 4x4, 4spd, L20b (wishes it was an LD20)

User avatar
asavage
Site Admin
Posts: 5333
Joined: 14 years ago
Location: Duvall, Wash.
Contact:

Re: Couple problems with my new D-max

#2

Post by asavage » 12 years ago

RacnJsn95 wrote:I'm unclear as to which mark I'm really supposed to use?
This is what Mark & I used in November, on his '83 Sedan (click on any image for larger):
Image Image

Crank mark:
Image Image
Image Image
The next problem, being the glow plugs. I don't think the GP system is working properly...
Check the GP bus fusible link and the GP bus aluminum bar for corrosion. There are excellent threads on both these issues -- I'm out of time right now to search them out for you. You can't do anything serious about it without a voltmeter.
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.

RacnJsn95
Posts: 37
Joined: 12 years ago
Location: Central Point, OR
Contact:

#3

Post by RacnJsn95 » 12 years ago

So from looking at my picture, and reading my description, the timing is deffinitely wrong, right?

So I should use the AB keyway, and mark B on the outside, correct?

I've also read about people having the crank "a turn out of phase"... How can I verify that I have it right the first time? I assumed that if the cam was in the right position, the crank would be "in phase"
82 Maxima Diesel, Auto 164k
77 620 k/c 4x4, 4spd, L20b (wishes it was an LD20)

goglio704
Posts: 726
Joined: 14 years ago
Location: East Tennessee

#4

Post by goglio704 » 12 years ago

RacnJsn95 wrote:So from looking at my picture, and reading my description, the timing is deffinitely wrong, right?
Was the other mark on the belt aligned with the crank mark when the picture was taken? If yes, then yours is timed wrong.
RacnJsn95 wrote:So I should use the AB keyway, and mark B on the outside, correct?
Yes, you should.
RacnJsn95 wrote:I've also read about people having the crank "a turn out of phase"... How can I verify that I have it right the first time? I assumed that if the cam was in the right position, the crank would be "in phase"
The #1 cam lobe, visible through the oil filler, is what you want to look for. Just don't forget yourself and move the crank later. That was how I screwed up and got the crank out of place.



From another, previously mentioned, thread...
goglio704 wrote:
asavage wrote:
goglio704 wrote:What manual is that page from? I'm referencing the 82 manual page EF-42 where it speaks of three belt aligning marks and tells you to use the "B" mark. I have marks called "A" "B" and blank. I probably used my 83 manual last time. I need to see if it reads differently.
OMG
This is a big problem.

From the '82 FSM:
Image


From the generic (Nissan) LD manual:
Image


I've done so many of these, and I've never spotted this.

Matt, please take a picture if you can, of the setup that (eventually) works, so I have one for the FAQ. This is going to bite me again.
In looking at, I think either (of the LD28 setups) will work as long as you don't try to mix the two methods. The relationship between the belt matchmark and the shaft keyway looks to be the same in both scenarios. Be advised that the companion keyway to the "B" marking is marked "AB"

After I had everything back together and it was too late to do anything about it, I thought of some ways to compare the two different methods. Next time I have one of these open I'll check it out and update this info. I'll also try to get some pics at that time.
Matt B.

83 Maxima Sedan, LD28, 5 speed, white, 130k miles. My original Maxima.
83 Maxima Sedan converted from gasser, LD28, 5 speed, 2 tone blue, 230k miles
82 Maxima Sedan, LD28, 3 speed auto, 2 tone Gray/Silver, 140k miles
81 810 Sedan, LD28, 3 speed auto, rust, rust, and more rust!

2005 Jeep Liberty CRD

RacnJsn95
Posts: 37
Joined: 12 years ago
Location: Central Point, OR
Contact:

#5

Post by RacnJsn95 » 12 years ago

Is there a good way to lock the pulley, so it's easy to get the nut off? Any other helpful hints or tips I should know when I try to tackle this?
82 Maxima Diesel, Auto 164k
77 620 k/c 4x4, 4spd, L20b (wishes it was an LD20)

goglio704
Posts: 726
Joined: 14 years ago
Location: East Tennessee

#6

Post by goglio704 » 12 years ago

I found that it was easy to break the nut for the IP sheave (pulley) loose with the belt on. That way it couldn't turn without the crank turning too. Once the nut is off you can take a small allen wrench or paper clip and probe the keyway to determine whether the key is in the right one. If it is, you won't have to take the sheave off the pump.
Matt B.

83 Maxima Sedan, LD28, 5 speed, white, 130k miles. My original Maxima.
83 Maxima Sedan converted from gasser, LD28, 5 speed, 2 tone blue, 230k miles
82 Maxima Sedan, LD28, 3 speed auto, 2 tone Gray/Silver, 140k miles
81 810 Sedan, LD28, 3 speed auto, rust, rust, and more rust!

2005 Jeep Liberty CRD

User avatar
asavage
Site Admin
Posts: 5333
Joined: 14 years ago
Location: Duvall, Wash.
Contact:

#7

Post by asavage » 12 years ago

Because I have an air impact wrench available (and I always remove the radiator to replace the IP belt), I use that. However, on Mark's, because I was taking notes and pictures for an upcoming article on "How to replace the IP belt", I did his with hand tools. My notes are not here, but IIRC I used either a large screwdriver or a 6"x3/8" ratchet extension through one of the six holes in the belt sprocket and against some projection on the housing (EGR tach sensor?) to hold the sprocket whilst removing the nut.

Be warned that you'll need a puller setup to remove the sprocket (if you need to) that pulls near the hub. I used a harmonic balancer puller and was able to use some bolts and large washers & nuts behind the sprocket, which works really well. I have pics, but not here, and they're not indexed yet.

Do not grab the rim of the sprocket!
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.

User avatar
asavage
Site Admin
Posts: 5333
Joined: 14 years ago
Location: Duvall, Wash.
Contact:

#8

Post by asavage » 12 years ago

You can get nuts & washers behind the sprocket in place. This is a harmonic balancer puller and a couple of GR5 3/8" bolts. Worked well for removing the IP sprocket. This method will only work if the radiator is out, of course -- which is my recommended method for IP belt replacement. It's too easy to damage the radiator while grunting at the various bits, and it's so much easier to get at things with it out.

(click on any image for larger)
Image Image Image Image
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.

RacnJsn95
Posts: 37
Joined: 12 years ago
Location: Central Point, OR
Contact:

#9

Post by RacnJsn95 » 12 years ago

How long would you say those bolts are? And any idea on the washers? I can pick some up today. I'm going to attempt to work this thing over starting tomorrow. Thanks for all the helpful replies, I appreciate it! I really hope this is what the car needs to be running like a champ again.
82 Maxima Diesel, Auto 164k
77 620 k/c 4x4, 4spd, L20b (wishes it was an LD20)

User avatar
asavage
Site Admin
Posts: 5333
Joined: 14 years ago
Location: Duvall, Wash.
Contact:

#10

Post by asavage » 12 years ago

In the neighborhood of 3-1/2" to 4" long. 3/8". Washers . . . well, looking at the pic I took, probably a nut, 3/8" FW, then 1/2" FW so it wouldn't slip through the sprocket hole.
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.

Carimbo
Posts: 459
Joined: 14 years ago

#11

Post by Carimbo » 12 years ago

asavage wrote:This method will only work if the radiator is out, of course -- which is my recommended method for IP belt replacement.
Does that mean removing the air conditioning condenser also? Then refrigerant recharge?

Just planning for my next major project-- all belts R/R.

User avatar
asavage
Site Admin
Posts: 5333
Joined: 14 years ago
Location: Duvall, Wash.
Contact:

#12

Post by asavage » 12 years ago

Carimbo wrote:Does that mean removing the air conditioning condenser also?
No. The condenser can stay, the radiator has to go.

davehoos
Posts: 525
Joined: 14 years ago
Location: Karuah Valley,NSW Australia
Contact:

#13

Post by davehoos » 12 years ago

i mostly use carboard to protect the condencor.

years ago changing a clutch i put a TD42 water pump through a few hundred dollar condensor that was firm order japan-i often now use a sheet of plywood.
WCJR31 Skyline.3.0 manual.wagon
R31 SKYLINE/Passage GT/PINTARA
LPG Ford Falcon 99-06 93 Disco
Local Shire Southern Zone Mechanic.

User avatar
asavage
Site Admin
Posts: 5333
Joined: 14 years ago
Location: Duvall, Wash.
Contact:

#14

Post by asavage » 12 years ago

On tight jobs, I've used a thick piece of wood paneling, but with the radiator out of the Gen1 Maxima, there's plenty of room. You can even get an air impact wrench on the crank bolt, to change the front crank seal.
Last edited by asavage 12 years ago, edited 1 time in total.

RacnJsn95
Posts: 37
Joined: 12 years ago
Location: Central Point, OR
Contact:

#15

Post by RacnJsn95 » 12 years ago

Turns out the pulley is on the right keyway, (AB) so I won't have to pull it... So, I'm searching to try and figure out how I can loosen the tensioner, so I can just move the pulley to the right mark (B) instead of the A mark it's on now. The generic LD28 manual says to make sure the tensioner is in the free position... How do I do that?
82 Maxima Diesel, Auto 164k
77 620 k/c 4x4, 4spd, L20b (wishes it was an LD20)

Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests