Valve adjust on LD28

Discuss (and cuss) the Nissan LD-series OHC Six diesel engine, popularly available in the US in 1981-83 Datsun/Nissan Maxima Sedans & Wagons.

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Carimbo
Posts: 459
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#31

Post by Carimbo » 13 years ago

OK, I get the idea, new gasket should arrive Saturday, will tighten the bolts using a few fingers placed near the pivot on a small ratchet handle.

Well the 1/2" click-ratchet starts down near zero but obviously that's not anywhere near its center (best calibrated) range. Probably took too much for granted. It's NOT one of the real expensive ones. I did check it recently at 65 ft-lb against a (real expensive) known good torque beam wrench and it was on the money so I suppose I can trust its accuracy in that neighborhood.

The FLAPS folks said I should use Permatex #2 on both sides of the gasket. The FSM makes no mention of this, and the one I took off originally came off clean. That Permatex #2 is the black sticky stuff that stays sticky indefinitely? I'd rather not make a mess.

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asavage
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#32

Post by asavage » 13 years ago

Except in very rare instances, I don't like or use Permatex.

For VC gaskets, as for a lot of other things, I like RTV. However, you do have to reduce the clamping force (bolts torque) when using RTV on a rubber gasket like the LD28's, at least until it sets up. RTV + neoprene etc = gasket creep -- bad.

I don't think I'd put any sealant on mine. I wasn't planning on it, and now that I think about it some more, I still don't think I will. The '82's doesn't leak (I want to adjust the valves); the '83 leaks quite badly.
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.

Carimbo
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#33

Post by Carimbo » 13 years ago

Installed the new new valve cover gasket yesterday. I took a better look at the cover and noticed some kind of dried white material on the valve cover itself (on the gasket mating surface-- looked like a thin coat of white housepaint). Not a lot, just a few patches. I removed what I could w/o making a mess or gouging the surface.

The Felpro box had some printed info on it stating not to use sealer or adhesive for this gasket. I was leaning toward not using any anyway.

I think the key is to run the bolts down equally, then tighten with a light finger touch. Most likely what made the first one fail was my inattention to expecting the (0-140 ft-lb range) torque wrench to accurately measure 5 ft-lb. Ultimately applied too much torque, bolts too tight, forcing the valve cover edge to split the gasket material in half.

T -- This is the cross section of the valve cover
U -- Cross section of the rubber gasket
_ -- Top of head sealing surface

The gasket was split along the bottom of its U channel.

Couple hours driving today and the area looks dry and clean now. It had lost almost 1.5 qt. oil, leaving trails and puddles. What a mess.

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asavage
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#34

Post by asavage » 13 years ago

asavage wrote:I have a 16mm one of these:
Image

I bought it to help remove injector lines on the IP.
It turns out that I don't own an 16mm one of those; I own the 17mm version:

Image

Caxambu, you want to borrow it and see if it works as-is, or if it needs modification? I didn't think so ;)
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.

goglio704
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Location: East Tennessee

#35

Post by goglio704 » 13 years ago

For what it is worth, I have had good success with a 17mm crows foot.
Matt B.

83 Maxima Sedan, LD28, 5 speed, white, 130k miles. My original Maxima.
83 Maxima Sedan converted from gasser, LD28, 5 speed, 2 tone blue, 230k miles
82 Maxima Sedan, LD28, 3 speed auto, 2 tone Gray/Silver, 140k miles
81 810 Sedan, LD28, 3 speed auto, rust, rust, and more rust!

2005 Jeep Liberty CRD

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asavage
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#36

Post by asavage » 13 years ago

OK, I've bought two of these (used):

Image

so I'm comfortable loaning one of them out. I had to give quite a bit for them, so unless I know you real well, I'll only loan one with a deposit in hand. If you think you'll be adjusting your valves often, I advise buying one -- Snap-On doesn't list S6007 on their site anymore, and they didn't return my email to them, asking about it either.

If you only need to adjust your valves every few years, use mine. No rental fee, but I will require a $50 deposit -- I want it back!
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.

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asavage
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#37

Post by asavage » 13 years ago

I just found some interesting info at this old, Chinese Snap-On Catalog:

S6007: For all Nissan cars with 1.6L engines. 1/2" drive, 17mm open end. 8" long. Image

S6014: For 6- and 8-cylinder Mercedes Benz. 1/2" drive, 17mm open end. Limited access does not allow use on rear cylinder of left bank of V8 engines—use FCOM17 Crowfoot Wrench for this adjustment. Also applicable to some Nissan overhead cam cars. 4-5/8" long. Image

The difference seems to be in the length. There's a reference to S6014 at zcar.com that implies it works on the L24/26/28.

There's an S6014 at eBay at the moment, and I'm going to buy it and try it, see if it's an alternative to S6007.
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.

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asavage
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#38

Post by asavage » 13 years ago

OK, so I've got the S6014 now, and here's the comparison:

Image

That's right: I have two S6007s, and they are 1/2" different in length. Go figure.
Last edited by asavage 10 years ago, edited 1 time in total.
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.

glenlloyd
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#39

Post by glenlloyd » 13 years ago

Carimbo wrote:The FLAPS folks said I should use Permatex #2 on both sides of the gasket. The FSM makes no mention of this, and the one I took off originally came off clean. That Permatex #2 is the black sticky stuff that stays sticky indefinitely? I'd rather not make a mess.
I use a Permatex product, or what I think is the same, to glue gaskets down during the install. I only use it on one side and even then very little, a very thin coat, only to hold the gasket in place. It's especially effective on water pumps where the mating surfaces are vertical and there's a tendancy for gasket slip. It does dry out in fairly short order and has never been a problem for me.

BTW Al, nice collection of wrenches!

sa
97 Jetta TDI, 86 VW Golf D
89 VW Fox diesel, 92 MB 300SD W140

gir - won't the sploding hurt?
zim - silence!

rlaggren
Posts: 541
Joined: 12 years ago
Location: San Francisco

#40

Post by rlaggren » 11 years ago

Update. I have the car Steve started this thread for. It looks like he didn't get to the valves - when I check them they were as he described about .002 tight. I had bought the 17mm crowsfoot but on looking it over the first time I caved and bought a set of 3/8" metric crowsfoot ends to get the 14mm for the adjustment nut. $40 was the "have it now" price - not what I like to do but I'd do it again because it made it a 3hr job instead of something else. Funny thing - most of the places I looked had sets with wrap-around ears like for brake line nuts. People with more time to plan could get those for 1/2 the price (from china) and grind them a little.

I set the valve to spec or probably a little wider cuz it's about impossible to hold the adjustment while you tighten the lock. There's some set-tighten-test jigging around and when I got one close-but-over a tiny it stayed that way. Used Al's method of running up the engine 1/2 way through. Being an unwashed anglo-phile (tool-wise anyway) I used a 1-1/16" socket on the crank which seemed to fit just right. Just managed to get the socket and a ratchet past the fan and shroud. The throttle cable lifted out of the way to remove the valve cover w/out removing anything.

For those w/a bench grinder and not much else to use the 17mm on, it'd likely help a bit to grind the shoulders of the gripper part down some so as to be able to turn it more before hitting the head bolts or the thermostat housing; it should be able to lose some metal and not have any problem w/40 ft-lbs. Don't know if other applications (eg. old Mercedes) need more torque.

If the gasket becomes impossible to find I suspect you can make one up from RTV. Trace the shape on a 3/4" board, route out the "mold" to the right depth (5/8"?), tap 3 or 4 brads into the track to support the valve cover 3/16" off the bottom, fill w/RTV, place cover into the muck and center carefully; leave dry and pull the brads from the bottom and you might have an (almost) permanent installation. Oh- oil-wax the interior of the mold b4 using. Be the first on your block to have a bright blue accent stripe on your engine! All day project, though.

Rufus
82 Maxima wagon

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