Al Savage's 1983 wagon

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goglio704
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#61

Post by goglio704 » 12 years ago

The Felpro kit I was thinking of was rather large and expensive, but it is the kind of thing I want to get my hands on eventually. It wouldn't be the first time I have run into a scenario where an important part was only available as part of a larger kit.
Matt B.

83 Maxima Sedan, LD28, 5 speed, white, 130k miles. My original Maxima.
83 Maxima Sedan converted from gasser, LD28, 5 speed, 2 tone blue, 230k miles
82 Maxima Sedan, LD28, 3 speed auto, 2 tone Gray/Silver, 140k miles
81 810 Sedan, LD28, 3 speed auto, rust, rust, and more rust!

2005 Jeep Liberty CRD

Carimbo
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#62

Post by Carimbo » 12 years ago

asavage wrote:However, both balljoints are loose, and the left one is very loose. How I missed that one, I don't know. Outer tie rod ends are good.
How did you isolate the inner balljoints? I'm still trying to troubleshoot a well-felt-thru-the-floorboards clunk, most often appearing on the first steering wheel crank of the day.

Thought it was the left outer tierod end, which showed just a very slight lost motion upon testing (hold on to the joint w/ fingers on both sides of the joint while helper plays steering wheel back and forth). But the boot had deteriorated so I replaced it mainly for safety's sake. Off-car inspection showed alternately loose and tight responses at various ball angles/rotations, certain angles alarmingly quite loose. Ball apparently had some flat spots shaved into it. Moral = normal troubleshooting methods for outer balljoints do not always give definitive results.

Still the clunk persists.

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asavage
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#63

Post by asavage » 12 years ago

Carimbo wrote:How did you isolate the inner balljoints? I'm still trying to troubleshoot a well-felt-thru-the-floorboards clunk, most often appearing on the first steering wheel crank of the day.
The brakes and front suspension of these Gen1 Maximas are pretty light for the duty they serve.

On the '83 Wagon, when I lifted the front via a floor jack, positioned on the crossmember, I then grabbed the LF tire at 3 and 9 and wiggled, to dbl-check the inner tie rod play. I was watching the rack boot and I could see a little compression, but not commensurate with the amount of motion I was getting at the wheel's edges.

I got my head down underneath, and it looked as though the balljoint was moving around, so I switched hands to 12 and 6, and WOW there is a lot of play there.

When the strut extends to max, the load is off the balljoint. While the angle is pretty severe, in my case a lot of play is seen. Hope that answers your Q.
Ball apparently had some flat spots shaved into it. Moral = normal troubleshooting methods for outer balljoints do not always give definitive results.
That's one I haven't seen before, thanks for sharing that tip.

On my '82 Wagon, I have "always" (ie for 70k miles) had a clunk when backing up and turning right, without applying the brake. It is getting worse. I aligned it 5k miles/two years ago, and checked for static play of all joints at that time. I had another tech dbl-check them too. I am beginning to think about your variable-play scenario and how that might relate to this.

My '82 has zerks on the outer tie rod ends and the balljoints. The '83 Wagon does not have zerks on the balljoints, can't recall about the tie rod ends.

[later]

Oops, I misread your Q:
Carimbo wrote:How did you isolate the inner balljoints?
I think you mean inner tie rod ends (balljoints are on the bottom of the spindle/strut assy.). I don't isolation them. If you do not use much force when wiggling the tire with your hands (at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock), the tie rod will move in and out into a loose inner tie rod end without imparting motion to the rack (the toothed and hydraulic portion).

On my '83 Wagon, both inners are loose, but the right side is much looser.
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.

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asavage
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#64

Post by asavage » 12 years ago

Today, I installed one of my LD28 starters. It did not work. Pulled it out, the pinion was not extending. Took new solenoid off, found to my chagrine that I was completely wrong about assembly order of the torsion spring. Now I have to go re-write that starter post. The correct assembly method is much harder.

Put the starter in a second time (faster, with practice), it cranks a whole lot faster. Here's why:

Image

It had a gasser starter installed. It spins up like my '82 now. Maybe even better.

Drove it with different (alloy) wheels on front, still has a vibration above 50 but not awful. Still feels like tire imbalance to me. I was hoping to cheap out and not balance a couple of these things, but I guess I will.

Cruise control still won't operate. Lights light, but no servo pull. Pulled over and checked: vacuum at the tree. No vacuum at the first CC solenoid. Next, with both ends disconnected, I tried to blow through the line: nope, it's pinched or plugged. I have a coil of new hose, I'll just string a new 6' length.

Thermostat is blown from getting it hot Sunday, does not warm up now. I'll have to put a new one in.

Missing a jay-bolt for the battery hold-down, I was going to finally bolt down the battery tonight. More money for the parts store :(

So those four things are on my list for Saturday.

Oh, and the OD light does not, though the switch works to toggle OD. If I get ambitious, maybe I'll replace the lamp, since I have a bag of them now (had to buy ten to fix the CC cluster in the '82 Wagon).
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.

Carimbo
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#65

Post by Carimbo » 12 years ago

asavage wrote:Drove it with different (alloy) wheels on front, still has a vibration above 50 but not awful. Still feels like tire imbalance to me. I was hoping to cheap out and not balance a couple of these things, but I guess I will.
One more (easy) thing to try: Swap them side to side or front to back. I did this a while back on YOUR suggestion I think (car was pulling strongly to side), and it happened also to stop a 50 MPH vibration problem. Anyway, those tires are now long gone, got new tires and even after balancing them twice still have a stubborn 50 MPH vibration altho less. They like to balance them by taking out the center cap and jam-clamping the wheel to the balance machine centered on the hub hole. Thinking that maybe these factory alloys are not always exactly hub-centric and would it be worth balancing them on-car. Do shops even have those machines anymore? Looked like an upright vacuum cleaner on steroids w/ a mini dyno roller, placed under the tire and spun the tire while bolted to the hub.
asavage wrote:Thermostat is blown from getting it hot Sunday, does not warm up now. I'll have to put a new one in.
I am using Napa p/n 239 (thm 239) and it is the correct structure, complete w/ bypass blocker extension that extends *just far enough* (1-5/8" measured from housing/tstat mating surface) to block the bypass inlet when at full extension, yet the blocker washer is not so large to interfere w/ the temp gauge sensors. Note this is a 192°F, you could request the sister 180°F version if you wanted to be better prepared for summer but that still feels like a long way off, it's like low 40's here tonite...

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asavage
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#66

Post by asavage » 12 years ago

It took a couple of tries, but I got a correct thermostat.

The radiator cap is the original, the upper rad. hose seems like it is also, and the thermostat I blew says "Nissan" on it, so it's probably original too. It looks to be of quite good construction, esp. compared to the Stant 13399 ($9) I put in:

Image Image Image


Gasket is Fel-Pro 35228 ($1). Pkg. says it fits the CD17 diesel, the LD28, most of the L-series (but the gasser thermostat is definitely NOT the same as the LD28's).
Image

[Trivia: According to the Parts Catalogue, Nissan spec'd an 82°C 'stat for the US LD28 until about Oct-81. Canada got the 88°C 'stat. After Oct-81, everyone got the 88°C 'stat.]

Here's what happened when I got the engine a bit hot: it doesn't close down anymore.
Image



Installation is a snap. About the easiest this kind of job can get. A very light ooating of RTV on both mating faces, slap down the gasket, anti-seize the three bolts, torque 'em down, top off radiator with 50/50, overfill the reservoir with same.
Image


===================================================

Finally got the battery hold-down installed. Thanks to Carimbo for finding me an OEM bar. The J-bolts were $2 but came with folded sheet metal wing nuts and without flat washers. A trip to the local hardware store netted me two 6mmx1.0 wing nuts (.31 ea) and two 6mm fender washers (.11 ea.).
Image

===================================================

Now have vacuum at the CC solenoid but still no go.

===================================================

I replaced the lamp in the console OD switch. Used the same 7219 lamp that I used for the cruise control indicators.
Image
Image Image Image


Note the factory-installed diode across the OD solenoid switch contacts.
Image


Sides of switch require some special handling to wedge the plastic over the catches. I used three No. 0 blade flat screwdrivers to get the first side released. The plastic really wants to break, it's thin and old, but it can be managed.
Image


Just like in the cruise control indicator, the lamps are socketed in silicone sockets. However, this socket has rectangular slots for the spade-style posts, where the CC indicator uses round holes and round posts. So the sockets are not interchangeable.
Image Image


Filament clearly missing.
Image



Careful snip of the leads, lamp removed.
Image


New lamp inserted. Image


Now to double feed the leads the way the originals were.
Image Image Image Image


All back together and plugged in, it lights up fine. Unfortunately, it's lit all the time. It's supposed to only light when the trans is actually in OD. I'm guessing a bad OD switch.
Image

===================================================

I swapped on yet another alloy rim, and now the vibration at 50+ is gone (or nearly so). I drove it home tonight, 17 miles, and ran it up to 80+ and it's fine. It's ready for a road trip :)
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.

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asavage
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#67

Post by asavage » 12 years ago

asavage wrote:Image
Took a couple of pics today of both clusters:
Image

Note two things: nice, steady, horizontal temp gauge on both; and the silkscreening is different.

Any 1981 and 1984 Maxima owners out there? How 'bout taking a pic of your cluster for inclusion in this comparison?
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.

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asavage
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#68

Post by asavage » 12 years ago

glenlloyd wrote:So what's your impression with the OD on? Did it feel weak or in your opinion was it pulling ok, even at the lower RPM? Did the transmission feel as though it had shifting problems?
Bear in mind that the '82 Wagon has had the trans fluid flushed (not just changed, but flushed) with Chevron's ATF within the last 5k miles, and the '83's ATF is ready for changing. There may be shift quality difference between the two fluids, independent of any internal trans differences.

On the '83, with OD engaged, there is a lot less engine braking. When you take your foot off the pedal, I'm used to the '82 Wagon slowing down, but the '83 doesn't.

Manual downshift (via shifter) to 2nd is a bit harsher than the '82, but then it's dropping two gears instead one.

Upshifts (1-2, 2-3) are not as smooth as my '82. Shift to OD is smooth, and occurs at light accel at ~23 MPH. TC locks at ~38 MPH.

With OD engaged, there is definitely less oomph available. My 17 mi. commute includes a couple of 1/4 - 1/2 mi. steepish hills. Hills that the '82 can handle comfortably (if smokily) in 3rd, the '83 can barely handle in OD, and maybe not even then -- and lots of smoke (but this is still largely five-year-old fuel). Dropping out of OD gets the power back.

The ride is much better in the '83 even though the miles are higher. The front struts seem more compliant, and the rear coils are a large improvement over my '82's worn out/sagging leafs. I have to cross a minor drainage "ditch" across the gravel driveway to park, and if anything is in the back of the '82 Wagon, I have to creep across it or the rear drags. The empty '83 glides right over it.

Subjectively, the '83 seems to accelerate off the line better than my '82. I haven't checked to see if the rear axle ratio is different.

The '83 has less engine noise at 50 MPH than the '82. This in spite of what I think may be part of the exhaust transmitting some vibration to the body (the '83 has some aftermarket exhaust bits welded in).
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.

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asavage
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#69

Post by asavage » 12 years ago

This Wagon has been sold, for $700.

I had put an advertisement for it on the door of the local biodiesel trailer last Saturday, along with a link to this thread plus newer pics. The ad said:
asavage wrote:"$800, or $700 if you promise to try to only run BD in it. And if you want to run WVO in it, I won't sell it to you, period. Yes, I'm serious.
I took a cheque from Marko Colby tonight, a local. He only uses a computer at the Library, so he won't be joining us here. He drives a Mitsubishi P'UP diesel and wants another diesel car for his SO. I let him drive it and then bent his ear about Maxima diesels for about two hours, and in desperation he agreed to buy it (to get away from me, I'm sure).

Marko's enthusiastic, and even after full disclosure of all its ills, he wasn't daunted, so ipso facto he's the right new owner for Myrna's old Wagon.
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.

goglio704
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Location: East Tennessee

#70

Post by goglio704 » 12 years ago

Glad to know you found a good home for it. :D
Matt B.

83 Maxima Sedan, LD28, 5 speed, white, 130k miles. My original Maxima.
83 Maxima Sedan converted from gasser, LD28, 5 speed, 2 tone blue, 230k miles
82 Maxima Sedan, LD28, 3 speed auto, 2 tone Gray/Silver, 140k miles
81 810 Sedan, LD28, 3 speed auto, rust, rust, and more rust!

2005 Jeep Liberty CRD

rlaggren
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#71

Post by rlaggren » 12 years ago

Sounds like a good match.

Rufus

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asavage
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#72

Post by asavage » 12 years ago

Well, that didn't last long . . .

I received a call from a Craig today (presumably a local), seems he now owns this Wagon. I couldn't talk to him much as I was, well, working, but hopefully he'll become a member here and the story will continue.
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.

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philip
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#73

Post by philip » 12 years ago

asavage wrote:Well, that didn't last long . . .
Seems like bio-orphans are tethered to its Momma. :wink:
-Philip
Passed 08May2008
My friend, you are missed . . .

1982 Datsun 720KC SD-22

"Im slow and I'm ahead of you"

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asavage
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#74

Post by asavage » 12 years ago

goglio704 wrote:I have some of the valve cover sealing washers on order from Nismoparts.com. I'll be curious to see what a new one looks like.
So, what do they look like?

goglio704
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#75

Post by goglio704 » 12 years ago

asavage wrote:
goglio704 wrote:I have some of the valve cover sealing washers on order from Nismoparts.com. I'll be curious to see what a new one looks like.
So, what do they look like?
I'll dig them out and try to get a pic. IIRC, they were pretty thick.
Matt B.

83 Maxima Sedan, LD28, 5 speed, white, 130k miles. My original Maxima.
83 Maxima Sedan converted from gasser, LD28, 5 speed, 2 tone blue, 230k miles
82 Maxima Sedan, LD28, 3 speed auto, 2 tone Gray/Silver, 140k miles
81 810 Sedan, LD28, 3 speed auto, rust, rust, and more rust!

2005 Jeep Liberty CRD

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