Turbo manifold ?

[Shagbark]

I started pulling an 83 280ZX turbo, manifold, down-pipe, etc. today but, I got a late start and have to go back to finish tomorrow. First, to anyone planing to rob this setup from a 280Z, be sure you allow yourself PLENTY of time. I worked on this one for four-hours today and still didn't get it all off. If you had the car in a shop, where you had air, floor jacks, and all the right tools, you could probably take it all off in a couple of hours. All the wheels have been robbed from the car I'm pulling it from, so it's sitting flat against the ground. I can't get my hands under it from anywhere except two small spots in the front wheel wells. Throw in a rat's nest, some stickers, and some 25-year-old nuts and bolts, and it becomes a pain in the butt. Anyway, I'm not complaining, because I would go back for three more days if I had to to get it. Until I got to the manifold bolts, everything was going pretty smooth. What the problem is, is that the 280Z intake is webbed (that's the best description I can think of) between the air tunnels. You can't see the bottom bolts like you can on an LD28, and, the intake man. lays flat down over the exhaust man. This makes the bolts almost impossible to see, because they are sandwiched in between. Is there a trick to getting them out, or are they just a pain, that has to be overcome the hard way (flashlight, mirror, two extensions)?

[kassim503]

I actually rammed a 12mm or 14 mm socket (whichever size that was) way into the manifold and pushed, and pushed, and pushed. I tried using extensions but the extensions kept hitting the wheel well, not enough available sizes, and there was stuff getting in the way. in the center of the manifold there is bolts shaped in a trangle, so there is one bolt under a access cover between pistons 3 and 4 on the engine, remember to get that. You can loosen most of the nuts and just start working at the intake to pull it free, I was not able to loosen the 2nd nut and thats where I just jammed a pry bar between the manifolds and just yanked the intake off

[kassim503]

Oh, thats right, the EGR tube got in the way, and I think the PCV hose had to be worked around.

[Shagbark]

in the center of the manifold there is bolts shaped in a trangle, so there is one bolt under a access cover between pistons 3 and 4 on the engine, remember to get that.

I took a flashlight out and looked at my LD28 manifolds and I think I see the three bolts shaped in a triangle. It looks like there may only be three nuts/bolts that have to come all the way out. The two on the ends (of the exhaust man.) and the one in the middle. I don't have the 280Z here, so I can't see what it looks like. If I get these three out, and get the rest loosened a bit, will it slip out from under the rest with some prying? Also, the access cover, is it on the intake man.? If I'm looking at the same triangle of bolts (on my wagon) that you are talking about, you can see them all from the top(no access cover). Does that sound like them? Thanks for helping.

Frank

[Carimbo]

Can you bring a jack and jack stands? That may allow you to get at the bolts from underneath.

[Shagbark]

Can you bring a jack and jack stands? That may allow you to get at the bolts from underneath.

He's got an old forklift out there. If I cant get to all of them the way it is, I'll have him tilt it up on it's side. He's got lots of junk to block it up with where it's safe. He's gonna' have to lift it anyway, so I can get a couple of my tools out from under it

[kassim503]

I don't have the 280Z here, so I can't see what it looks like. If I get these three out, and get the rest loosened a bit, will it slip out from under the rest with some prying? Also, the access cover, is it on the intake man.? If I'm looking at the same triangle of bolts (on my wagon) that you are talking about, you can see them all from the top(no access cover). Does that sound like them? Thanks for helping.

Yep, the triangle of bolts is what im talking about, you're able to see it 'cause its a diesel, but on the gasser the third bolt cant be accessed without taking the access panel off. Its located on the intake manifold right by the valve cover.

And yep, you should be able to pry it out after loosening the bolts a little bit and getting those three out, just bring the big bar in case the gasket wont let go

[Shagbark]

Yep, the triangle of bolts is what im talking about, you're able to see it 'cause its a diesel, but on the gasser the third bolt cant be accessed without taking the access panel off. Its located on the intake manifold right by the valve cover.

You saved my arse by telling me about that access panel. There was a rat's nest that I had cleaned off the top of the intake manifold that left some residue (mostly rat turds!) over the access panel. I would have been doing a lot of head scratching trying to figure out why that manifold wouldn't come out and may have even broken something, had you not told me about that access panel. Many thanks kassim503! Another thing that was causing problems was that, I had seen how difficult some of the heat shield bolts were to get a wrench on, and was trying to take the manifolds off with them still attached. I was thinking that they (the heat shields)would be a snap to pull off once the manifolds were removed. This was bass ackwards of course. They create more problems by leaving them on than they are to take off. Once I got those off, and got that bolt out that was under the access panel, everything went smooth. Thanks again kassim503.

[DMS]

I have a pile of those Turbo manifolds. They warp easily so make sure if you do pull it it isnt leaking on one of the ends or middle. They esp like to pull off on #6 and leak blowing out the gasket and making a large mess around the cylinder head.

anyway this is a picture of one of my L28et turbo manifolds and my LD28 head, Vo7 I beleive:





more here:
http://datsunmotorsports.selfip.com/Die ... riment.htm

It will NOT bolt up correctly. You will need to dremel quite a bit to get the bolt holes to line up. Those bolts you can see are the only ones that line up enough to mount the manifold. The ports are also in the incorrect positions but are close enough to dremel it away. The original diesel intake and the turbo manifold will both need to be cleared from each other to bolt back on the head.

After considering all this myself I came to a conclusion. The Turbo L exhaust manifold already has a tendancy to warp as it is very long and there isnt much to it. Doing all the work to make it fit could easily cause more complications such as fatige to the metal causing more warpage or even cracking. Building a custom turbo manifold from would be preferable. EVEN IF it was a Lseries gas engine flange to start with. You can get cheap $100 headers for Zcars all day long. cut the flange off buy the $10 turbo flange from ebay, cut and weld up a homemade manifold. I have a half descent version as oaky rigged as it may sound.

Anyway yeah pulling those intake and exhaust manifolds off those engines is a hell of a thing esp if they are still in the engine bay of a car! Ive got it down to 20min and I can have both off on my old 280ZXT

[DMS]

Take off the 14mm bolts along the top of the intake manifold. Loosen the EGR tube from the bottom of the EGR unit. Unbolt the fuel rail from the front of the engine.

Loosen the 12mm bolts on the bottom of the intake manifold that hold it in place. There will be six on the bottom of which 2 of the nuts/bolts with be a huge pain without a swivel or something. Once you get the intake out of your way life is easy again and there are 3 bolts in the center holding the exhaust on still assuming youve removed the 12mm bolts on each end of the exhaust manifold.

Hope that will help.

[asavage]

It will NOT bolt up correctly. You will need to dremel quite a bit to get the bolt holes to line up. Those bolts you can see are the only ones that line up enough to mount the manifold. The ports are also in the incorrect positions but are close enough to dremel it away. The original diesel intake and the turbo manifold will both need to be cleared from each other to bolt back on the head.

Member dislsmoke said much the same thing, in this post, so I'm prepared for that. But your pics are a very good visual indication of the severity. Do you have higher-res versions of those manifold-to-head pics? If so, provide a link (don't try to post them here, it screws up the horizontal scroll for the entire thread) or upload them here.

[DMS]

I thought I had 1.3mb pics of those but I cant find them. I host my own pics so no problem there. usually ppl want smaller, first time someone asked me for a bigger pic... go figure.

[dieseldorf]

I am attempting to install the 300ZX Turbo I purchased from Al. I prepared the exhaust manifold by cutting and grinding (will post some pictures later)
Both, the exhaust and intake manifold now bolt on to the head. However, the turbo outlet is to close to the intake manifold. As seen in the picture. There is only 1.5" space between them.


There is no way to install the piping. I read all the posts and there is no mention of using a different intake manifold. Even dieselsmoke in his postdoesn't say anything about a turbo intake manifold.

You can, just go to your local recycling yard and look for a '81 thru '84 Nissan 280Z Turbo, remove the exhaust manifold, turbo, down pipe, inlet hoses, clamps discharge pipe and don't forget the elbow to attach the discharge pipe to your intake manifold.(make sure you get the oil feed and return lines to and from the turbo)

Am I missing something? Do I need a manifold from a turbo ZX?

[PanzerAce]

Why not just unbolt the compressor housing and rotate it? And you already have a turbo ZX manifold there (otherwise a turbo wouldn't have bolted to it).

[davehoos]

factory LD28T patrol for sale on trademe this week.