I recently put a SD22 in my truck that has 100K on the clock. That's 150K less than my current motor so I was feeling confident that the motor would work. The motor was really clean and the oil that came out looked good. No metal, no sludge. There was however some coolant in the oil pan. I figure its the head gasket and I will probably replace it.
The mystery is with the closest injector to the firewall. It came out with a strange goo on it. It looks like old oil mixed with water. The others only had diesel. Sorry for the small photo, I had the file size set too small on the camera. Any idea what caused this? Is it the head gasket?
Is it possible that the 'goo' was in the cylinder head ABOVE the injector seal and is the result of both oil and water seeping down alongside the injector??
N_R
The old 'six gun' was as popular as the cell phone in its time and just as annoying when it went off in the Theater.
Well, I'm not an expert (standard disclaimer... but true!). FWIW:
Is it running on 4 cylinders or 3? I think it'd be pretty clear and you didn't mention a problem there, but... That doesn't really look like emulsified water/oil - more like varnish, maybe fuel that never fired off and got sorta cooked. If the injector was dribbling instead of spraying...? It might be interesting if you have the injectors out to do a compression test. If you're going to get the injectors serviced, might do that now and ask the shop to test them BEFORE they start the rebuild and write it up so you have some idea what to blame your troubles on.
I've never run the motor. The truck I got it out of had front end damage that broke the radiator and the PO just parked it. The injectors are at the diesel shop being rebuilt so its too late to ask if there was something different about that one. As far as water seeping down, I don't think it's possible. The injector lines and nuts were buttoned up tight.
Well, even if you just plain want to pull the head you might want to do a compression test first, wet and dry, to see whether there's enough difference to want to look at the rings. Also, somebody who knows the sd stuff will need to comment on whether there's an oil cooler that could leak coolant into the oil.
cseger1 wrote:....As far as water seeping down, I don't think it's possible. The injector lines and nuts were buttoned up tight.
I meant water/oil running down ...above... the seal, that is between the injector cavity in the head and the wall of the injector. The lines and nuts being tight wouldn't have anything to do with the goo getting down on the tip; that could have happened when you removed the injector. Anyway, with the units being rebuilt, it's mostly conjecture at this point. rlaggren's suggestion to do a compression test now is a good one. Keep us posted...
N_R
The old 'six gun' was as popular as the cell phone in its time and just as annoying when it went off in the Theater.
Oh I get you. I am in crush washer hell with this thing now. The tip of the pick I was using broke off in the pre-chamber after getting out only one washer.
Does anyone have a recommendation on a compression tester kit? IE: one with the correct interface for the orifice that the injectors go in.
I think unless you can get the tip out (w/magnet or compressed through the GP hole) you pretty much have to pull the head now. You don't want to turn the engine with that tip in there and risk scoring what hopefully is a good cylinder.or embedding it into the top of the piston at TDC.
If that piston is at TDC now you can probably blow the thing out if the magnet doesn't work. If it's not at TDC you _might_ be able to sharpen a wood dowl and stick it through one or the other of the holes to plug the pre-combustion chamber (keep the tip from getting into the cylinder) and then blow it out. When you use air, try to place a lettuce strainer or something to catch what shoots out - you _really_ want to know if you actually get the tip ;out of there!
When I rebuilt my injectors they had the white goo just like yours. Mine still runs fine two years later. Some injection person told me not to worry. I think that I finally got those stupid washers out with either a lag bolt or a screw with a diameter slightly larger than the hole in the washer. Insert, twist, pop! I tries all sorts of custom tools, but none worked worth a darn till the screw method. Good luck.
There is an account on this site somewhere of a fellow who broke off a glow plug tip and managed to recover it without removing the head. I think he used a shop vac.
Go Here: http://nissandiesel.dyndns.org/viewtopi ... 4&start=30 and you will see how it was done. Also might want to read through that entire post as to what type of washer to get when you replace those mutherz. The newer "crush" type one that sits in the bottom. As Rufus said make sure you put a screen, or a tea strainer or piece of coffee filter or some means to let you know when you get that litttle bugger out of there. Perhpas the SHL gods will smile on someone from the Mainland too
Paul
Retired Pauly
Problem with being retired is that you never get a day off.
1987 D21-J SD25 KC
KJLGD21FN
Thanks for all the replies. I have read and re-read that thread. I am going to try the shop vac first. Then the air. I don't have a magnet that fits in without sticking to the cyl walls so it has produced no results yet. I have tried threading a bolt onto the washer but I didn't have one the right size. I'll try a lag screw next.
If you use a vac, you might put some screen or cheesecloth in one of the hose joints. It'd just be _really_ better to know for sure you're not turning that engine on a piece of steel.
Just had a thought: Some spray adhesive on the end of a piece of coat hanger on, better maybe a pipe cleaner. Hmmm. Maybe a small wad of lint free cloth bound on the end of the coat hanger. Crimp a tiny hook in the hanger first, wad the cloth around it and secure the cloth (tightly) w/some fine wire - q-tip on steroids. Then spray-glue and some delicate fishing.
plenzen wrote:Go Here: http://nissandiesel.dyndns.org/viewtopi ... 4&start=30 and you will see how it was done. Also might want to read through that entire post as to what type of washer to get when you replace those mutherz. The newer "crush" type one that sits in the bottom. As Rufus said make sure you put a screen, or a tea strainer or piece of coffee filter or some means to let you know when you get that litttle bugger out of there. Perhpas the SHL gods will smile on someone from the Mainland too
Paul
The god's have indeed smiled, smirked anyway. I got the pick tip out with the shopvac. Great tip (no pun intended). Unfortunately the truck is having problems starting. I am going to start a new thread on it.
I've seen injectors come out looking like that, when I've pressure-washed an engine and not gotten it out ofr a good, long run afterward. Water can make its way down from the outside to that level.
Still, if you have coolant in the pan, you should have the head crack-checked and/or pressure tested.
