WTB: Coolant hose kit

[TheDieseliminator]

Hi all, I wanted to see if it's possible to buy all the coolant hoses for under the hood of the LD28. In getting my car back together after I overheated it, I'd like to try to buy all new hoses for the coolant system given some are over 15-20 years old. Anyone know where the best place is to get all of them? Top and bottom radiator hoses shouldn't be too hard and then you have some near the firewall too. It's only the smart thing to do to change all the hoses to brand new ones after installing this lower mileage cylinder head and new radiator. Any references or advice is appreciated. Thank you.

Salvy

[asavage]

There are a lot of little hoses, and some of them look difficult to get to. I would definitely try OEM first. The heater hoses you could probably get away with "off the roll" but some of the smaller ones would be bitchy.

If you need or want part Nos., let me know and I'll spend some time listing them, then you can run them through http://www.nismoparts.com/cart/?pn=16805-V0700
and check on availability and prices. I can't do it tonight, I had to travel to a meeting and now I'm home but it's way past my bedtime.

[TheDieseliminator]

Al, I guess I'll go ahead and accept the part numbers for the hoses to give it a try. Buying from Nissan probably would be the best idea. If Nismo Parts has these hoses it would sure be great to have the opportunity to buy them online. Thanks for the reference.

Salvy

[asavage]

LD28 Cooling system hoses part numbers, from the Dec-1985 Parts Catalogue. Some part Nos. may have been superceded, and some hoses are very different from the L24e.

(This is unbelievably difficult to cull out of the Catalog; the hoses are spread across a LOT of different sections.)
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Upper Radiator                                                                   21501-W2403, $12                        
Lower Radiator                                                                   21503-W2403, $16
Upper heater hose (engine side of firewall, at firewall), to 6-82               92400-W2400, $6
Upper heater hose ("inlet", engine side of firewall, at firewall), 7-82-on      92400-W2500, $7
Lower heater hose ("outlet", engine side of firewall, at firewall)              92403-W2501, $7
Head-to-Oil Cooler                                                               21306-V0700, $9
Oil Cooler-to-Inlet (Inlet?)                                                    21307-V0702, $12
Bottom bypass hose (under thermostat housing)                                   14055-V0700, $9
90° hose on banjo fitting on top of water inlet to water pump (under PS pump)   13514-W2501, $8

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Try as I might, I can't find all the other little hoses around the IP. Maybe Steve can have better luck, but I've struck out.

I've left out the heater hoses on the passenger compartment side of the firewall. Let me know if you want those too.

[later edit]
Hoses for heater on the passenger compartment side of the firewall.

Hose, firewall joint to valve (7-81-on)                                          92406-W3200, $7
Valve ("Cock Assy - Water (for heater)")                                         92240-W2100, $22
Hose from valve to heater core -- shown, but no key number or part number.
Return hose from heater core to firewall joint  (7-81-on)                        92407-W3200, $7

[kassim503]

Try as I might, I can't find all the other little hoses around the IP. Maybe Steve can have better luck, but I've struck out.
.

would those little hoses have a 3/8" ID

[asavage]

More likely 10mm & 12mm. From memory, some of the molded bends would be best replaced with . . . molded bends.

[TheDieseliminator]

Al, thanks for those part numbers. I'll also need the numbers to the heater hoses on the passenger firewall just for reference. I think I may try to buy the top and bottom radiator hoses from a local auto parts store because they shouldn't be too rare. I'd consider them to be the most popular hoses under the hood in any case. But if I go ahead with Nismo Parts will it be guaranteed that all the hoses will be correct once they arrive? Factory Nissan parts are nice to have without a doubt. Not to get off subject, but what would be the best place to buy the EGR valve off the intake manifold? I got my two halves of the intake back from the machine shop the other day and they did a real nice job cleaning them. I'll have excellent air flow now and I believe the EGR valve is stuck. But, I don't know that for sure because I don't know how you would go about testing it. Do they even go bad? Either way I think I'd like to buy a new EGR valve so the internals of the intake manifold won't take a beating from the next how many thousands of miles I'll put on it. Does Nismo Parts offer the 82 diesel EGR valve still? If still available I'd think I would be able to go to my local Nissan dealer to buy the valve, but not sure what it would run price wise. Probably isn't fairly cheap too. Appreciate any help.

Salvy

[asavage]

In those days, the EGR valve in general was a fairly high-failure item. However, it doesn't affect diesel operation the nearly as much as a gasser, because it doesn't affect the fuel/air ratio. When EGR valves fail, they fail to close. On gassers, the EGR feed passages plug up, so even though the valve opens, you still get pinging, because the valve opens but no flow.

I'm not where the Parts Catalogue is right now. I wouldn't change the EGR valve "just because". It's easy to replace at any time (two nuts, one or two gaskets depending on how you remove it, and one large nut on the inlet pipe).

Don't forget the stainless steel "guide tube" between the EGR valve and the intake. My machine shop lost mine, and because it's non-magnetic, I had to wait until they drained the tank to get it back -- they couldn't drag a magnet to get it.

The guide tube comes in low-altitude and high-altitude flavours. Because of the guide tube, you sometimes need two EGR mounting gaskets. NAPA part nos. are in the FAQ.

If you want a spare EGR valve, I'll ship you one free.

[glenlloyd]

Try as I might, I can't find all the other little hoses around the IP. Maybe Steve can have better luck, but I've struck out.

Not likely, my catalog doesn't list LD28 as available for RHD! Seems the Americans were the only ones who needed the "big" powerplant!

I think I may try to buy the top and bottom radiator hoses from a local auto parts store because they shouldn't be too rare. I'd consider them to be the most popular hoses under the hood in any case.

I show the upper / lower radiator hoses listed at Autozone but apparently for online purchase only, and they're listed as curved (molded). Napa also lists radiator hoses and one of the heater hoses too, also molded.

If the prices Al listed for Nismo are accurate it might be easier and cheaper to acquire them all at once from Nismo.

Steve A

[asavage]

The thing is, for $28 you can have upper/lower radiator hoses that last a looooong time. Why pay $10 less for "ECR" hoses (ECR is a common aftermarket hose)? NAPA = Gates, which are OK, but again the price difference is negligable . . . I just checked, NAPA's prices here for the premium hoses are exactly the same as OEM. YMMV.

[TheDieseliminator]

I wouldn't change the EGR valve "just because". It's easy to replace at any time (two nuts, one or two gaskets depending on how you remove it, and one large nut on the inlet pipe).

Al, since it's considered a high failure item I would think mine has failed for sure, probably quite a few miles ago too. Maybe already had before I bought the car. The reason I'd like to change it is I am installing the manifolds on the right side of the engine now, so it's easier to do it now then later when all the parts are assembled after I've driven it for sometime. Plus, if the EGR valve has anything to do with creating more wet, oily grunge in the intake manifold I'd like to buy a new one to prevent that from happening at a greater amount. You lose so much air flow to begin with after the manifold becomes real bad. Can you get a new EGR valve from Nismo Parts? I'd like to consider it if I can get it.

Don't forget the stainless steel "guide tube" between the EGR valve and the intake. My machine shop lost mine, and because it's non-magnetic, I had to wait until they drained the tank to get it back -- they couldn't drag a magnet to get it.

Would you by any chance have a picture of this part? I removed the EGR valve off the intake manifold myself and I'm pretty sure I would have saw this part before I took it to my local machine shop to have cleaned. I am pretty sure.

If you want a spare EGR valve, I'll ship you one free.

I'd like to consider your offer, but will your spare EGR valve be worth installing over my existing EGR valve (which should have about 212k on it)? Thanks for all the helpful knowledge, it taught me a few things about EGR systems I didn't know to begin with.

Salvy

[asavage]

since it's considered a high failure item I would think mine has failed for sure, probably quite a few miles ago too. Maybe already had before I bought the car.

Yes, the EGR valve is a high-failure item -- on gassers. It also affects gassers driveability a LOT more than diesels. Faulty EGR doesn't affect the LD28 like it does a gasser. Diesels that use EGR flow a lot of exhaust gas, much more than a comparable gasser. The LD28 isn't sensitive to proper/improper EGR operation.

The reason I'd like to change it is I am installing the manifolds on the right side of the engine now. . .

Left side

. . . so it's easier to do it now then later when all the parts are assembled after I've driven it for sometime.

It's very easy to change at any time, there's no advantage to changing it early.

if the EGR valve has anything to do with creating more wet, oily grunge in the intake manifold I'd like to buy a new one to prevent that from happening at a greater amount.

I don't think that having an EGR that opens & closes properly versus one that isn't quite closing is going to affect grunge buildup.

a) The LD28 has no appreciable intake manifold vacuum until the EGR control system closes the throttle butterfly. Even if the EGR valve leaks, there isn't going to be significant flow of exhaust into the intake until vacuum is created by the EGR control system -- at which point, the valve will be opened again.

b) I forget what I was going to say here.

You lose so much air flow to begin with after the manifold becomes real bad.

It takes a long time for the intake to become restricted enough to be considered an issue. If you have to clean the intake every ten years, is that too soon?

Can you get a new EGR valve from Nismo Parts? I'd like to consider it if I can get it.

I'll look it up when I get home to where the Parts Catalogue is.

Don't forget the stainless steel "guide tube" between the EGR valve and the intake.

Would you by any chance have a picture of this part?

There is a partial picture that will do you no good, on page EC-26 (1982 FSM). The actual part is about 2+" long, tubular.

I removed the EGR valve off the intake manifold myself and I'm pretty sure I would have saw this part before I took it to my local machine shop to have cleaned. I am pretty sure.

I missed it on mine. It was only when I was reinstalling the EGR valve that I realized that it was missing. When I inquired, they eventually found it, but it took weeks until they drained their tank.

If you want a spare EGR valve, I'll ship you one free.

I'd like to consider your offer, but will your spare EGR valve be worth installing over my existing EGR valve (which should have about 212k on it)?

Probably not.

[asavage]

Can you get a new EGR valve from Nismo Parts?

LD28 EGR valve (comes with guide tube -- one assumes for low altitude -- but without the gaskets) is 14710-W2500, $103.

Gasket is 14719-W2510, $2.58 ea. Two are required. See also the aftermarket part Nos. for this gasket in the FAQ.

I've amended the hose part nos. post above to include heater hoses inside the pass. compartment.

[TheDieseliminator]

Once again thanks for the other hoses with part numbers and the EGR valve info too. Today I went to my local NAPA store to pick up the EGR valve mounting gasket that is referenced on the FAQ page as NAPA part #2-25210. To forewarn other members and Al, I've found this certain gasket does not work on the LD28 EGR valve and is not the right size. The two holes where the nut/washer hold the EGR valve onto the top intake manifold is wider than what this gaskets' holes are. In other words the NAPA gasket is not wide enough to drop over the studs on the manifold to seal the EGR valve when it is tightened down. Here is a visual example:

<o O o> <oOo>

The gasket to the left is the correct spacing and the gasket to the right is spaced too close to the other mounting hole. NAPA's gasket is like this. I'll be returning the gasket hopefully tomorrow and kinda got me mad because I was going to install the EGR valve and top manifold today but it screwed me over of course.

[asavage]

The CRB number is special order, and I think I had the same problem as you, but I can't recall.

The Fel-Pro number definitely worked. Fel-Pro is not a product you can buy from NAPA though.