Priming IP after seal replacement

[goglio704]

Help! I finally got time to try to put the seal in the IP and get that car running. I can't get the pump bled out. It has been sitting without the seal now for weeks. I put grease on the shaft to prevent rust and that worked. The pump dripped slowly the whole time it sat - about two gallons worth! That didn't bother me. I'd rather have fuel dripping out than something else getting in. Putting the seal in was easy. I can get the car to start and run briefly and roughly, but it won't stay running. I've used a hand vac pump and pulled fuel all the way through the fuel filter. I've cracked the lines loose at each injector and cranked to purge the air, but I just can't get it to run. I've primed and started diesels from scratch before, but this one is a pain. Any suggestions?

[asavage]

I've cracked the lines loose at each injector and cranked to purge the air, but I just cant get it to run.

1983 FSM, pg MA-27/28: you have to remove the return line that runs from the back of the IP to the steel line on the right frame rail, then run the hand primer on the fuel filter. That's how you purge the IP housing of air.

On the VW version of the IP, there's a similar procedure.

You will spend a good deal of crank time trying to purge that IP housing via the injector lines. Gotta do the IP housing first.

Disconnect this line from the line on the frame:

then run the hand primer until the air is gone. At least, that's what the FSM says. I've never done it on this engine.

[goglio704]

I've cracked the lines loose at each injector and cranked to purge the air, but I just cant get it to run.

1983 FSM, pg MA-27/28: you have to remove the return line that runs from the back of the IP to the steel line on the right frame rail, then run the hand primer on the fuel filter. That's how you purge the IP housing of air.

On the VW version of the IP, there's a similar procedure.

You will spend a good deal of crank time trying to purge that IP housing via the injector lines. Gotta do the IP housing first.

Didn't remember that in the manual. Sigh. I guess the days of looking through a manual a couple of times and having a mental table of contents are gone. Sigh again. I'm not sure my hand primer is healthy on this car because it doesn't move fuel like the other car. Thanks for the input.

[goglio704]

The seal fit perfectly with no leaks so far. ULSD is showing up around here and I now have a source of commericial B99 so we'll see what the seal is compatible with.

[Carimbo]

After I got it primed and running, I no longer needed the electric pump, but I still like the concept.

Folks on the WVO sites w/ good reputations say that having a "pusher" pump installed (elec. pump mounted near the tank) is a wonderful help during those situations when having to reprime after changing filters or accidently running the tank dry. And of course as in your situation, R/Ring the IP.

I haven't had to change (either diesel or WVO) filters yet in my 10,000+ miles of ownership (I monitor via a vacuum gauge installed pre-IP inlet) but have ran the tank dry. Apparently my fuel gauge also reads optimistic. Engine bogged & died on a local freeway one night, was able to coast off the offramp, find a suitable parking, call a friend to fill a gascan and bring it. Required MUCH pumping of that filter housing button pump. A little nervous because the filter housing had been broken before near the mount and was sloppily (looks like) JB-welded together. It held up OK but it really only had the desired effect after I pumped it a lot more with the injector return line disconnected. I think she just wanted to pee diesel all over my hand in retaliation for running her dry.

Key for us is that our VE type IPs are not designed for a high inlet head pressure, as they have the internal lift pump built in. Best choose a pump w/ low PSI rating, say 4-9 PSI, and/or install a fuel pressure regulator, someone please correct me if I am wrong.

Great work, goglio704, we are standing by for reports on the seal's compatibility w/ biodiesel and/or ULSD. Do you think the IP shaft seal is R/R-able without IP removal from the car?

[goglio704]

After I got it primed and running, I no longer needed the electric pump, but I still like the concept.

Folks on the WVO sites w/ good reputations say that having a "pusher" pump installed (elec. pump mounted near the tank) is a wonderful help during those situations when having to reprime after changing filters or accidently running the tank dry. And of course as in your situation, R/Ring the IP.

I haven't had to change (either diesel or WVO) filters yet in my 10,000+ miles of ownership (I monitor via a vacuum gauge installed pre-IP inlet) but have ran the tank dry. Apparently my fuel gauge also reads optimistic. Engine bogged & died on a local freeway one night, was able to coast off the offramp, find a suitable parking, call a friend to fill a gascan and bring it. Required MUCH pumping of that filter housing button pump. A little nervous because the filter housing had been broken before near the mount and was sloppily (looks like) JB-welded together. It held up OK but it really only had the desired effect after I pumped it a lot more with the injector return line disconnected. I think she just wanted to pee diesel all over my hand in retaliation for running her dry.

Key for us is that our VE type IPs are not designed for a high inlet head pressure, as they have the internal lift pump built in. Best choose a pump w/ low PSI rating, say 4-9 PSI, and/or install a fuel pressure regulator, someone please correct me if I am wrong.

Great work, goglio704, we are standing by for reports on the seal's compatibility w/ biodiesel and/or ULSD. Do you think the IP shaft seal is R/R-able without IP removal from the car?

It sure is. I did mine in the car. I took the radiator out to maximize working room. I used a small right angle drill to drill for a sheet metal screw. I don't know that it was essential to use a right angle, but it made it nice.

[asavage]

Apparently my fuel gauge also reads optimistic.

The system has both a low fuel level warning light, and of course the audible alert ("Fuel Level is Low" x 2). I ran my '82 Wagon clear over the Cascades with the low fuel level indicator lit -- it was the tail end of a 19 hour drive straight through from Alamo, NV to Portland, and the middle of the night. I was coasting down the west slope, I was afraid I'd run out of fuel, but I finally got to a Texaco station with the engine still running.

For your situation: could I suspect a viscosity-related problem instead? I'm biased, of course.