720 Gas to Diesel Conversion Bits

#31

Philip,
Yes, There is more than one product line offered. The part numbers given by TooManyIdeas are for the bellhousing line. BH 19 is one of the parts listed on the Bellhousings and Engine Transplant page, where I got the first photo.

A link to their catalog with a photo of #19 is http://www.rodshop.com.au/catalogues/Bellhousings.pdf

#19 on further inspection looks kinda like a plate. But it is in the BH sectin and not the "adapter" section.

#32

moose60 wrote:-SNIP. A link to their catalog with a photo of #19 is http://www.rodshop.com.au/catalogues/Bellhousings.pdf

#19 on further inspection looks kinda like a plate. But it is in the BH sectin and not the "adapter" section.

This is a bellhousing because it encloses the flywheel and clutch. Notice in the description: "...4 and 5spd steel cased gearboxes."

If I recall right (check me), the '80's Toyota gas pickups had the starter on the passenger side but the optional diesel was on the driver side. Same bellhousing predicament faced with Datsun-Nissans, gas vs diesel.

This "adaptor" seems to be for a 4x4 trans mating because I believe the 2x2 transmission had an integrated aluminum case/bellhousing like our Datsun/Nissans. Wadda ya thinK?

#33

moose60 wrote:. . . bell housings(or the front half of the case as some like to call it) . . .

To clarify: many older domestic transmissions have a detachable bellhousing. It interfaces to the transmission at a flat, vertical surface. This allowed a common transmission to be cheaply adapted to various engines with varying bolt patterns and starter locations.

Most light-duty modern transmissions do not use this design/manufacturing model; every engine gets its own transmission casting, saving the extra metal needed for a sturdy bellhousing/transmission interface, which reduces weight but increases cost.

The Nissan FS5W71x transmission does not have a detachable bellhousing, period.

You can see that in order to change the part that has the bolt pattern, you are really replacing the entire front case.

#34

Found this problem in my swap, The mounts are different and no combination mounts I could think of would allow the motor to just bolt in. I ended up using the gas mounts, although I had to grind the alignment tabs off of them on the motor side and the frame side on the pass side. Then I had to open up the rearward hole with the plasma. Here is a pic comparing the 2, the diesel mount is on the left.

This is how far I got on the oil pan tonight, I got it rough cut in and I will double check it for fitment. I hope to finish it sunday.

This is a pic of the turbo that will go on as soon as I finish the oil pan.

#35

Keep 'em coming!

Wish I could have traded you oil pans. I have an SD with a holed pan.

Depending upon what I find when I pull that pan, I may need a pan with liquid integrity. I'm going to weld that one up, probably.

#36

Almost done with the new pan.

#37

bacho wrote:almost done with the new pan.

That was a 5 qt pan. Maybe 3-1/2 now?

#38

I can put 5 quarts of water into it, however I plan on running dual oil filters and mabye extending the other side to boost the capacity back up.

#39

Posted: Sat Feb 10, 2007 12:41 pm Post subject:

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I can put 5 quarts of water into it, however I plan on running dual oil filters and mabye extending the other side to boost the capacity back up.

#40

Don't need large sump capacity, if system capacity is adequate. Your dual-filter setup should be fine. Make one of them a bypass filter if possible, rather than two full-flow filters. Something like this.

#41

I have the Motor Guard units (two of them). I like the TP filters over the cartridges.

"2.78 microns absolute" seems a bit large to me. The "absolute" term is a null reference in this context.

Anyway, as long as you have enough oil in the system, it does't matter where it is (in the lines & filters or in the sump). Dry sump systems have been around for ages. The combination of (true, API Group IV) synthetic oil and bypass submicronic filtration is hard to beat.

#42

bacho wrote:I can put 5 quarts of water into it, however I plan on running dual oil filters and mabye extending the other side to boost the capacity back up.

How can you remove as much capacity from the pan ... as you have done ... and still say it holds 5 quarts?

I like your idea of extending the pan to regain capacity. External hoses and fittings are avoidable vulnerabilities.

#43

Heck, you can probably get seven or eight quarts of liquid in that pan!

(but it would be into the rotating parts)

I don't think that you can avoid external hoses if you want bypass filtration.

#44

Well, If I have to pull the motor again I will probly do the extended pan.

By the way, what oil are ya'll running? I filled mine with Shell Rotella. It took 4 quarts. I am hoping to fire it up again today and start the turbo soon.

#45

Well in a mix of mis information and an error on my part, the new pan does not fit, and no combination of mounts will allow the motor to bolt up in place. I have a new idea and I plan on putting a new mounting surface on the z24 pan this time around. That will bump my oil capcity a good bit.

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720 Gas to Diesel Conversion Bits

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