Al Savage's 1981 720 SD22, "Orting Truck"

This is where we can post about our rigs, specs, ongoing plans, etc., links to pics.

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asavage
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#31

Post by asavage » 13 years ago

philip wrote:
asavage wrote:Sell it as a whole parts truck, or part it out?
You need another project.
Not an option. It goes. The Q is: which way does it go?
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.

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philip
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#32

Post by philip » 13 years ago

Down here ... are several Auto Junk Salvage (generic) places who will come to you home... pay you $100-$200 for most ... and tow it away. At worst, they'll tow it off and give you zero $$. But you're done. WHEW. :wink:
-Philip
Passed 08May2008
My friend, you are missed . . .

1982 Datsun 720KC SD-22

"Im slow and I'm ahead of you"

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asavage
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#33

Post by asavage » 13 years ago

I would never let one of these go (directly) to a scrapyard.

Here are pics from today, in case anyone reads this far. GPs are still out, I'm soldering the GP bus today and reinstalling.

Image Image Image Image Image Image Image Image Image Image Image Image Image Image Image Image Image Image Image Image Image
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.

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asavage
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#34

Post by asavage » 13 years ago

This truck has been sold (in parts). Yesterday, I stripped the cab/interiour. Today, I pulled the engine/trans. Some interesting pics for present & future use.

Drained engine & trans overnight, this is the trans plug:
Image



Image Image Image


I have often wondered if there is a gasket here; now I know:
Image


The upper starter (bugger) bolt. Easy to get to when the radiator & alternator are removed first:
Image


All head bolts removed (12mm & 19mm heads). One 12mm bolt can't be removed without removing the injector return line.
Image


No. 4 (bad):
Image


No. 1 (bad):
Image


Head is in quite good condition:
Image Image Image


No. 1 & No. 4 bores are toast:
Image Image


What is this cover for again?
Image Image Image Image Image Image Image


No. 1 & No. 4 pistons. I see impressions of a valve contacting the top of both of them, the pistons are deformed. I'd sure like to know what happened:
Image Image Image


The journals and bearings look almost like new. I wouldn't have hesitated to put the brg shells back in and continue to run them, they are that good (visually).
Image Image


The e-clip that has to be removed to remove the shift lever. I keep forgetting to take a pic of it, now I have:
Image
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.

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asavage
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#35

Post by asavage » 13 years ago

Second to last batch of pics.


The nut on the front of the crankshaft is ~1-5/8" and is torqued to almost 240 ft/lbs, which is pretty tight. With the block sitting in the back of the truck, I used a 4' 2x4 wedged in against the crankshaft, and another brute manned the 3/4" breaker bar with 4' pipe extension, and it was pretty tough to break the nut loose.

Getting the sheave off the crank was a frustrating ten minutes of beating. I did it without bending the sheave or using the heat wrench, but it was tough. I do not know how I would have done it with the oil pan still on the block. Spacer bars to catch the rear of the hub? I hope I never have to try to replace the front crank seal in the truck!
Image


Good pic of the piston-undersides oil jets.
Image

Image


Not much liner to grab there, when pressing/pulling it out.
Image


See where the motor mount bracket bolts to the block? There is socket head pipe plug you can just see. Picture after shows the plug on the inside of the crankcase. If the motor mount bracket didn't cover the plug, it could be used as a separate turbo oil return line sight, instead of tee-ing the vacuum pump return line.
Image Image
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.

plenzen
Posts: 868
Joined: 13 years ago
Location: Cochrane Alberta Canada

Crank Pulley Bolt

#36

Post by plenzen » 13 years ago

This is really good to know because the front seal on my SD 25 is starting to leak a bit. It aint all that bad as I see a few spots on the lower splash guard. I bought the seal and the gaskets and was going to spend a couple of hours one day changing it. I read the FSM and it is simple! 5 Easy steps!!. Remove Radiator, Remove Fan, Remove Drive belt pulley, Remove front cover with old oil seal, Install new oil seal and coat with engine oil!!! Right!! After I read this I looked a little closer to the exploded view of the engine where it lists the torques and saw the 217-239 in brackets!! Holy crap! Don’t know how I am going to get that one out in the truck. Then you say that the sheave is a bit of a bear to pull off as well???. Hmm??? Might have to wait till it’s really REALLY ! ! ! Leaking I think. Can’t see myself doing an extraction to change the front seal but it might turn into that I guess. The more I drive the little guy, and the more I read here on this site, I am beginning to think these things are somewhat ????? Quirky??. Did not recall the lower pulley/sheave thing from my old marine days with the 33's.
Paul
Retired Pauly
Problem with being retired is that you never get a day off.
1987 D21-J SD25 KC
KJLGD21FN

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asavage
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#37

Post by asavage » 13 years ago

It's not necessary to remove the front cover to remove the front seal, as far as I can see.

I hope that the newer sheaves have tapped holes in the hub. The sheave on the '81 is pressed sheet steel welded to a machined steel hub. You can't use a jaw-type puller on it without destroying it. With the oil pan off and the block upside down, I could use a 15" length of 3/8"x4" flatbar against the hub's weld area and beat on the other end of the flatbar. The angle was not optimum. I had tried hardwood prior to the flatbar and got nowhere. I mushroomed the flatbar badly, but after a lot of force, the hub started to move.

Looking at it, I think I would try to use some heavy rectangular bars behind to sheave, try to get them between the front cover and hub, then thread the ends and make it into a puller setup. Either that, or heat on the hub. The interference fit on this '81 was fairly heavy, and almost no corrosion when I got it off.

It is obvious that it was not designed to be removed :(
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.

plenzen
Posts: 868
Joined: 13 years ago
Location: Cochrane Alberta Canada

#38

Post by plenzen » 13 years ago

The newer front pulley/ballancer is a cast piece from what I can see and I can get a puller on it, the problem might be getting in there to get the bolt out. I know all the bolts from the splash pan are going to break off too. The front cover removal is easy though and I dont have to try and beat the new seal in a confined space. If I can get the pulley off I will take the 8 or 10 bolts out of the cover. Besides I bought the 25.00 gasket. The one that goes behind the plate under the cover is cheap! The one that is easiest to replace is the most expensive. The seal was 18.00 I think. I will have a closer look at it and might even take the radiator out to see further. Time for a coolant change anyway.

Paul
Retired Pauly
Problem with being retired is that you never get a day off.
1987 D21-J SD25 KC
KJLGD21FN

ffdjm
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#39

Post by ffdjm » 13 years ago

I fabricated a clamp for the crankshaft pulley and rented a big puller. It was the only way to get the thing off.

ftp://137.229.41.231/etc/imgp0642.jpg
ftp://137.229.41.231/etc/imgp0643.jpg

Douglas

plenzen
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Location: Cochrane Alberta Canada

#40

Post by plenzen » 13 years ago

Am I to understand that these pulleys are on a taper?
Retired Pauly
Problem with being retired is that you never get a day off.
1987 D21-J SD25 KC
KJLGD21FN

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asavage
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#41

Post by asavage » 13 years ago

No, it's a straight bore but a tight fit.

(click on image for larger)
Image

plenzen
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#42

Post by plenzen » 13 years ago

Got the same pic in my manual but did not know if it was a taper or not. This one that I have, on the 25, like I said, is a cast iron piece and is actually a balancer as it has the rubber ring between the balancer and the sheave. I wonder if they changed things in that department. Talked to my dad and he took a number of 22's apart that were on gen sets that had "catastrophic oil pan failure" ( cranks busted) and did not recall them being that much trouble to get off. He did say however that it had been a number of years. ( 20+ I think) I wonder if the industrial/ marine versions are different in this regard. Hmm?? I will give it a try with the standard type three arm puller that I have here and see how it goes. I will not get to it real soon as I have some other fires that I have to put out first, but will let you know when I tackle it. If it doesn’t come off easy ithen t can stay there and bloody well leak!! (we all know it won’t though)

Paul
Last edited by plenzen 13 years ago, edited 1 time in total.
Retired Pauly
Problem with being retired is that you never get a day off.
1987 D21-J SD25 KC
KJLGD21FN

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asavage
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#43

Post by asavage » 13 years ago

Can't use a 3-arm puller on a damper. All that will occur is the damper will delaminate, leaving the hub still on the crank.

This is a 1982 SD22 w/AC:
Image Image

According to Nissan FAST, there are at least six part Nos. for the SD23/25 front sheave:
Image

Perhaps yours has a hub tapped for a puller.

plenzen
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Location: Cochrane Alberta Canada

#44

Post by plenzen » 13 years ago

That is funny that you mention that as my dad just told me the same thing and thought that it was tapped for a puller but he could not remember. He said that there were a few 25's that went out for gen sets as well but after 69+ years in the biz they all start to look the same to him. I will have to get a mirror and a flashlight out and have a look.

Paul
Retired Pauly
Problem with being retired is that you never get a day off.
1987 D21-J SD25 KC
KJLGD21FN

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asavage
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#45

Post by asavage » 13 years ago

Even a mirror may not help, as the tapped holes may be behind the crank nut (which, at least on the SD22, has a very large flange).

If someone pulls one off, I'd like a picture.

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