Now that I've gone and read more of this thread, I know you've just had it apart, and it's not going to be a problem that can be remedied by snake oil. This is either a wear or mismatched parts issue.dc1184 wrote:Hey Al, thanks for the info. I guess I have nothing to lose by trying one of those fix-in-a-bottle solutions.
These pictures:
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There's only one way a valve gets like that, and it's because it hit something. Normally, I'd say it stuck open (siezed in its guide). However,
a) The piston has damage in more than just the area where the valve hit;
b) The piston didn't come loose of its gudgeon pin.
The cracked piston skirt etc. can be caused by the valve striking the piston, but how did the rest of the piston crown become so beat up? Heat could have seized the valve in its guide, or the retainer (disk-shaped) may have failed and allowed the valve to "fall down" into the cylinder but I assume they'd have told you about a failed retainer. That piston crown looks suspicious.
There's a mystery here. Did some foreign object make it down the intake tract?
Are we sure both that piston and valve came from your engine, and from the same cylinder?
Leaving that all aside, you are probably running very short gearing for the SD25, and I can tell you from experience that the SD does not take well to being run up at the governor cutout for long. You may want to invest in a cheap TinyTach ($50, last time I looked) for your dash.
You'd know about that, as the blowby (vapor coming out of the valve cover if you remove the oil fill cap while idling) would be as bad as a used engine. Having said that, I'm not a fan of re-ringing diesels: bores wear oval-shaped and tapered. The taper is not a problem, but trying to wear a new round ring into an oval bore is nearly impossible, leading to extremely long break-in times.It's a bummer, because in January I had the whole engine apart (after cracking a piston). it's got a new piston, I was told the other 3 were fine, and new rings on all 4 pistons (hasting). The bores were checked by a third-world machine shop, and checked out fine according to them. Plus the head is brand new with two brand new valves. The new head was blank, so the rest of the assembly came from the old head.
I was expecting much higher compression readings myself. Maybe, for some reason, the rings didn't seat correctly.
The early SDs used draft tubes; your later one has the sealed system -- it has the crankcase breather routed to the intake. It's partly for emissions (those road draft tubes released a lot of hydrocarbons) and partly to keep dirt out of the inside of the engine.
Does your SD25 have EGR?
That would be good to have posted, for future reference.Elboss, sorry but I don't know the part number for the VE pump. I can send you the numbers off the housing of my SD25 VE pump if you'd like.
The Inline IP uses a four-bolt, rectangular mounting.I don't think the SD25 VE pump works on the SD22 though.
The Distributor IP uses a three-bolt, triangular mounting.
So, you'd have to modify the mounting plate or get one from a matching engine.
EGT should not run over 1150°F continuously for reliable operation. I think we have a link somewhere to Banks' website where they put out that number.