LiftMaster (Chaimberlain) 8365W-267, & Homelink Compatibility Bridge

Ongoing discussion of anything not related to Nissans or diesels.

Moderators: goglio704, Nissan_Ranger, kassim503

User avatar
asavage
Site Admin
Posts: 5346
Joined: 14 years ago
Location: Duvall, Wash.
Contact:

LiftMaster (Chaimberlain) 8365W-267, & Homelink Compatibility Bridge

#1

Post by asavage » 4 months ago

For my future reference.

I had our three garage doors replaced due to age, and figured the 1996 Chamberlain door lifts were near EOL, so I had them replaced, too. I chose the LiftMaster 8365W-267.

Two lifts + three cars with Homelink + two wireless keypads. And each of this model of lift has both a Learn button on the "ass end" of the lift, and another, remote Learn button the wired remote at the house's man door. Two Learn buttons per lift, two lifts. Got it?

First thing: LiftMaster puts a lot of info on the ass end, along with four buttons (which all can change color) and a standalone indicator. One of the buttons is the typical yellow Learn button, and the standalone indicator is for it only. However, while the S/N, MAC address, FCC ID, Date, and Part No. are all listed on this end, the Model No. is cleverly hidden on the other end. With a different serial number.

That's not confusing at all.

LiftMaster (Chamberlain) does have to answer the question, "Where is the model number," frequently, so they have an easily-Googleable page for the answer.
LiftMaster_8365W-267_Redacted_01b.jpg
LiftMaster "ass end" with Learn button: no Model No. info.
LiftMaster_8365W-267_Redacted_01b.jpg (543.19 KiB) Viewed 462 times
LiftMaster_8365W-267_Redacted_02b.jpg
LiftMaster "front end" with Model No. and different serial No.
LiftMaster_8365W-267_Redacted_02b.jpg (350.77 KiB) Viewed 462 times

The installer did not offer to set up the three cars for the new lifts. He asked how old they were, and when I told them, he said, "well, you might have some difficulty with the older ones," and then he left.

Then the fun began.

I had no trouble setting up the 2018 Tesla Model 3: it just worked.
The 2014 RAV4 EV took a bit more work, and really I feel it was the old Satco LEDs giving me grief, but aside from that it set up OK.

However, the 2010 Sienna was a no-go. Homelink states the 2010 Sienna will work with the LiftMaster 8365W-26.

I was not able to train the Sienna's Homelink to the new transmitter; it would not read. OK, I was kind of expecting that a 2010 Homelink transmitter would not work with an out-of-the-box 2019 Homelink receiver in the new LiftMaster. I ordered the hardware fix for this very common problem: the Homelink Compatibility Bridge (HCB) kit:
Homelink_RPTR_and_LM855_01.jpg
Homelink Compatibility Bridge kit, LM855 Transmitter + HOMELINK RPTR repeater.
Homelink_RPTR_and_LM855_01.jpg (136.97 KiB) Viewed 462 times
HCB wrote:
  • The Compatibility Bridge® accepts and converts a non-compatible HomeLink® signal into a Security+ 2.0® compatible signal.
  • Can be programmed to work with more than one Security+ 2.0® garage door opener
This HCB kit consists of the LM855 programming transmitter and the HOMELINK RPTR repeater module, which listens to old Homelink transmissions and then retransmits via newer Homelink frequency/protocol.

I ordered one on Friday from Amazon, picked it up Sunday after work (we have an Amazon Locker at work: handy!), tried it out Sunday night.

First off, the HCB kit's install/programming instructions leave out all manner of important information.
  • The LM855 Transmitter will only program a vehicle's HL transmitter; I cannot (apparently) act as a remote itself. You can't use it to test that the RPTR is trained to the lift.
  • The RPTR has an LED. It blinks. You have no idea what that LED is trying to communicate.
  • While the HCB sales page says a single HCB kit can operate two lifts, there's no mention anywhere (on the three-language instruction page that comes with it, or on the web) of how to accomplish this.
Based on what I was reading, I made the assumption I could use the 855LM as a test remote, so I started at Step 2 (ie skipped training the Sienna's HL to it) and tried to test the HCB by plugging in the RPTR and attempting to train a lift to the RPTR. That didn't work. The RPTR's LED blinky-blinked, but there's no explanation of what it's for. I assumed I got a bad one from Amazon, because Amazon resells customer-returned equipment these days. I returned it to Amazon and got a replacement. As it turns out, the RPTR's LED's behaviour was distinctly different between the two RPTRs, but I'll never know if the first unit was working or not, because I condemned it based on the faulty assumption that I could use the LM855 directly, instead as the programming-only tool that it apparently is.

Later in the week, I received the replacement kit. Same results (except the RPTR's LED flashed quite differently).

Between the lack of Model No. where I could find it, the LED RF interference, the antenna issue, the white lamp diffuser covers refusing to stay closed, having to guess what the RPTR's LED was attempting to relay to me, I was ready to throw things so I decided to walk away.

Coming back to this yesterday, I gathered the various documents, owners manual for the Sienna, things I'd printed off from Homelink/Chamberlain/Liftmaster websites, and called LiftMaster support. I put on my calm-but-frustrated consumer persona and was prepared to be connected to a foreign-located script-reader. Instead, I was connected to one of the friendliest CSRs I've spoken to, and with an unusually clear phone connection. He agreed with the Homelink doc linked above that the 2010 Sienna should work with the LiftMaster 8365W-267's transmitter, and & I worked through more-or-less the same instructions and procedures I'd tried a dozen times, but no-go: the Sienna's Homelink would not train to the new 8365W transmitter. Without suggesting the Compatibility Bridge kit, he tried to transfer me to Homelink Support, failed, then gave me their phone number and wished me Good Luck.

I called HL support, and their phone menu tree had me perform the <i>same</i> dance again, with same results. Ten minutes later (it takes a while for some of the steps), I was able to step out of the phone menu tree and was connected to a HL CSR. I summarized for him that the Sienna's HL would not train to the LM 8365W's transmitter, he had me do it again (!), then suggested the Compatibility Bridge. I said, "I have one!", he walked me through the steps (including Step 1: Train Sienna's HL to the Compatibility Bridge's remote: LM855). I had never tried training the Sienna's HL to the LM855 before. It didn't work (surprise!).

[Sidebar] The instructions for training HL in vehicles to new transmitters all state:
LiftMaster wrote:Position the hand-held transmitter 1-3 inches away from the HomeLink surface, keeping the HomeLink indicator light in view.
And the Compatibility Bridge shows this graphic:
HOMELINK_RPTR_Step_1_01b.png
Homelink Compatibility Bridge kit, Step 1.
HOMELINK_RPTR_Step_1_01b.png (82.79 KiB) Viewed 462 times
[/Sidebar]

The Sienna's HL would not train to the HCB's LM955 Transmitter.

The HL CSR asked if there was a sunglasses compartment in the overhead console; I don't have one. He then suggested placing the transmitter directly under the Sienna's HL button 3, right on the LCD, and trying again. Success!

TIP ONE: Training Sienna's HL to new transmitter Wow, 1-3" away did not cut it. The Transmitter had to be literally touching the plastic of the LED, under button 3.

I wondered, then asked the HL CSR, if I would be able to train the Sienna's HL to the LM 8365W lift's transmitter. He replied that the 2010 Siennas HL is probably version 3, and too old to train to the LM 8365W's transmitter. I did try it later, and it failed.

We then walked through training a lift to the HCB RPTR, which was straightforward.

Then, I asked about getting the Sienna to use the HCB to operate the second lift. This is

TIP TWO: Configuring one HCB to operate two lifts

Train vehicle HL to HCB using LM855 Transmitter (programmer)
  1. HCB RPTR unplugged.
  2. Engine ON (higher battery voltage to vehicle's HL)
  3. Clear out all previous HL settings in vehicle's HL: press and hold HL buttons 1 & 3 simultaneously. Continue holding for ~20 seconds, until HL dot(s) blink, then release. All previous transmitter settings are deleted.
  4. Place HCB transmitter under vehcle's HL button 3, up against the LCD plastic, obscuring the HL "house" indicator. Yes, now you can't see it.
  5. Press the transmitter button (there is only one button on the LM855) and the numbered HL button on the vehicle which corresponds to the lift you are programming. Both those buttons simultaneously. HOLD THEM DOWN.
  6. After three seconds, continue holding both buttons, but slide the transmitter slightly to the right just enough to see the LCD: the dot(s) should be rapidly blinking. If so, release both buttons and go to Step 7. If not, return to Step 3 and try again.
Train lift to RPTR
  1. Plug in RPTR. Ignore the LED (may be ON, OFF, or flickering).
  2. Press Learn button on ass-end of lift. Yellow indicator will light solid. This was the one step where using the remote Learn button on the wired keypad did NOT work, so use the Learn button on the lift itself.
  3. In vehicle, press the HL button you trained earlier. Hold for two seconds, then release. Nothing will happen.
  4. Press the same button again for two seconds, then release. Lift's lights will flash (or, if no lamps installed, relay will click; you may or may not be close enough he hear it).
  5. Press the same button again for two seconds: the lift should energize and move.
Train second (or third) lift to HCB
  1. Unplug HCB. Important!
  2. Go to Step 4 and repeat through Step 11
Lamps information
My 1996 lifts had Satco (mid-tier) LED lamps installed by me. I'd had some transmitter range issues even before installing CFLs (later, the LEDs) so I'd extended the 6" antenna to 10', up at the front wall of the garage, 2010.

The installer refused to reinstall my LED lamps to the new lifts; he said LED lamps interfered with the transmitters. I don't have access to a spectrum analyzer anymore, so I had to experiment. After he left, I installed the old Satco LEDs, and he was correct: there is a clear difference in the reliability of the transmitters. I suspected the six-year-old Satcos, and changed them out for new GEs, which (with my newly-re-extended antenna, anyway) don't seem to impact range over no lamps installed.


TIP THREE: Train the correct HL button in your vehicle

At some point near the end of the process, I had programmed the wrong HL button in the vehicle. I then reprogrammed it to the opposite lift, but the results were unexpected: one button in the vehicle operated both lifts! Not desired.

Unfortunately, there's no way to un-train a single transmitter (or programmed HCB transmitter, in the case of the Sienna). To eliminate one transmitter, you have to reset the lifts, and then reprogram the lifts to accept all the remotes again. In my case, eight separate events. Not fun.
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.

plenzen
Posts: 867
Joined: 12 years ago
Location: Cochrane Alberta Canada

Re: LiftMaster (Chaimberlain) 8365W-267, & Homelink Compatibility Bridge

#2

Post by plenzen » 3 months ago

That is very interesting about the LED lights.
I put two of whatever Costco sells in my Liftmaster about a year ago. I never connected the install of those with unreliable home link function. Wife's Impala started giving her problems and I have spent hours and filled 4 swear jars trying to figure WTF. Pulled the dashboard apart to see if the RKE antenna was still plugged in as that is where the home link brain is.( although the remote for the car worked correctly)
Pulled the A pillar cover off and checked the antenna routing etc.
Then the new Caravan started being unreliable as well.
The hand transmitters worked fine. I'm going to put incandescent bulbs back in and see if this is the issue. I will extend my antenna as well. Maybe run it outside under the soffit.

Huh... : :? :shock: :shock: :shock: .,..never thought that bulbs could make a difference. Weird

Thanks Al.
Retired Pauly
Problem with being retired is that you never get a day off.
1987 D21-J SD25 KC
KJLGD21FN

User avatar
asavage
Site Admin
Posts: 5346
Joined: 14 years ago
Location: Duvall, Wash.
Contact:

Re: LiftMaster (Chaimberlain) 8365W-267, & Homelink Compatibility Bridge

#3

Post by asavage » 3 months ago

Since I re-connected the existing 10' antenna extension (which the installer had cut when removing the old lift, but declined to reconnect when he installed the new lift), and also changed out Satco LEDs for newer GE LEDs, I can't say with certainty which or both were the fix, but I have plenty of transmitter range now.

I have very few incandescent lamps around, but they did furnish me with Made-in-Canada incandescent lamps when they installed the lifts, so I do have a couple now.

Incandescents are just so damned inefficient for light production, compared to LEDs. And I have changed out literally thousands of fluorescents at work (with many thousands left to go): take out a 28W 4' linear fluorescent, install drop-in replacement 18W LED: more light, almost no heat, and best of all: no UV! Plastic diffusers, lampholders, etc. should last a whole lot longer with the UV absent. No mercury in LEDs, either. Hazmat costs associated with removing our EOL fluorescent lamps and disposing correctly is thousands of dollars a year.
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.

plenzen
Posts: 867
Joined: 12 years ago
Location: Cochrane Alberta Canada

Re: LiftMaster (Chaimberlain) 8365W-267, & Homelink Compatibility Bridge

#4

Post by plenzen » 3 months ago

I recently changed out the fluorescent tubes in my garage with LED. A few were plug and play as they were the T8s. The T12's ( I think they are called) were very simple ballast eliminate. Instant on, cold start, super bright, etc. The 8 footers will have to wait (I have 2 fixtures) as they are pretty pricey from Amazon right now, but I check the prices regularly.
The recycle depot in town accepts tubes, ballasts etc so disposal is not an issue. Incandescent bulbs are good heaters though. :roll:
I'll mess with another couple of brands of LEDs and see if that may make the difference once I determine that is in fact the issue.


Did you use a solid strand wire for your antenna extension, or just a piece of braided/twisted stuff? And did you change gauge?
Retired Pauly
Problem with being retired is that you never get a day off.
1987 D21-J SD25 KC
KJLGD21FN

User avatar
asavage
Site Admin
Posts: 5346
Joined: 14 years ago
Location: Duvall, Wash.
Contact:

Re: LiftMaster (Chaimberlain) 8365W-267, & Homelink Compatibility Bridge

#5

Post by asavage » 3 months ago

I used something like 24 ga. solid for my antenna.

Careful on the ballast delete: while the lamps are available to run @ 120v, the lampholders aren't designed for line voltage (though, typically, they're rated for 600v peak voltage). We looked into that, and decided that when we change from fluorescent ballast to LED, we install an LED driver; we don't bypass the ballast and run mains voltage to the lampholders.

We almost always use T8 retrofit lamps. Any T12s we run into, our policy is to re-ballast to T8 and run the retrofit LEDs, but occasionally we reballast to LED driver instead.

You might try an A/B test with the lights off or disconnected, so do a baseline range check, prior to extending the antenna.
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.

plenzen
Posts: 867
Joined: 12 years ago
Location: Cochrane Alberta Canada

Re: LiftMaster (Chaimberlain) 8365W-267, & Homelink Compatibility Bridge

#6

Post by plenzen » 3 months ago

Thanks Al

I will check the temperature on the tombstones after the lights have been on for a while. I think they draw less amperage than the 40w T12's but I will check the carton they came in. I still have a couple spares.

I will try a range test with the lights unscrewed and again with them screwed in and then extend the wire and try same test again.
Retired Pauly
Problem with being retired is that you never get a day off.
1987 D21-J SD25 KC
KJLGD21FN

User avatar
asavage
Site Admin
Posts: 5346
Joined: 14 years ago
Location: Duvall, Wash.
Contact:

Re: LiftMaster (Chaimberlain) 8365W-267, & Homelink Compatibility Bridge

#7

Post by asavage » 1 month ago

Reviewing LED lamp retrofit types

LED_lamp_retrofit_types.png
LED Lamp retrofit tube types
LED_lamp_retrofit_types.png (68.35 KiB) Viewed 213 times

For us, the lampholders ("tombstones") rarely fail electrically, but fail constantly physically, as they approach 60 years old: the insulating material breaks and falls off. In a "ballast delete" scenario (Type B, the chart above), that leaves mains voltage exposed. A lot of our fixtures are 277v, not 120v, and most of them date from 1964-onward (everything fluorescent older seems to have been replaced by the time I arrived in 2013). A presentation by GE four years ago implied this was not safe, but reading on GE's website today implies (but does not state) that Type B installs are now UL-approved. If true, this is news to me.

The above discussion is relevant to bi-pin G13 lampholders. Typical for our hospital:
leviton-13351-d__17505.1556174056.jpg
Leviton G13 lampholder, 13351
leviton-13351-d__17505.1556174056.jpg (63.26 KiB) Viewed 213 times
leviton-lamp-accessories-13357-n-64_1000.jpg
Leviton G13 lampholder, 13357
leviton-lamp-accessories-13357-n-64_1000.jpg (36.84 KiB) Viewed 213 times
----------------------------------------------

However, another much rarer T8/T12 lamp we have in a few places is the HO (High Output) style R17D. We have these in T12 usage in several 1980-vintage mechanical rooms, and quite a few monuments (exterior standalone signs). I feel a whole lot more comfortable wiring mains voltage to these recessed sockets, than G13 bi-pin, mostly because I've never run into an R17D that had physically deteriorated like the G13 tombstones have.

Sylvania-22207-FO96841HOECO-9622-T8-Tube-High-Output-86W-R17D-Recessed-Double-Contact-Base-4100K.jpeg
Example of HO-style R17D dual-recessed lamp
Sylvania-22207-FO96841HOECO-9622-T8-Tube-High-Output-86W-R17D-Recessed-Double-Contact-Base-4100K.jpeg (29.15 KiB) Viewed 213 times
Leviton_13550.jpg
Leviton 13550 R17D dual-recessed socket
Leviton_13550.jpg (27.85 KiB) Viewed 213 times
leviton-13550-nw-compressible-ho-fluorescent-lampholder-11__29697.1499727785.jpg
Leviton 13550 R17D dual-recessed socket
leviton-13550-nw-compressible-ho-fluorescent-lampholder-11__29697.1499727785.jpg (37.8 KiB) Viewed 213 times
Starting last week, I've begun ordering and installing Type B (ballast bypass) lamps in a few signs, with the future plan to try them in our mechanical rooms that use that type of lamp. The sign-rated ones I bought for some "AMBULANCE" and "EMERGENCY" signs were kind of expensive, but they're double-sided which adds cost (single sided LED lamps are cheaper), and they're also 6' rather than the more-common 4' or 8':

Satco S16408 30T8/LED/HO-SIGN/72-840/BP, replacement for 85W F85T12HO.
30 watt T8 LED; 4000K; 4100 Lumens; 120-277 volts; Single Ended; Ballast Bypass. 120-277v, 50k hours, 5-year warranty. (10) per case.

I think my cost was close to $70 each lamp, and I used four of them (but had to buy a case of (10)). The CRI is only 83, but that's fine for a backlit sign.
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.

plenzen
Posts: 867
Joined: 12 years ago
Location: Cochrane Alberta Canada

Re: LiftMaster (Chaimberlain) 8365W-267, & Homelink Compatibility Bridge

#8

Post by plenzen » 1 month ago

Have not run into any issues thus far with the "Ballast Delete" tubes. I do have a few fixtures in the garage that are of the "recessed push type" tombstones for the regular T12 type bulb. They are actually porcelain ( I think ) and of course no longer available. I got these fixtures from an electrical contractor place in Wetaskiwin Alberta when I lived there in the early 80's. They were a heavy duty, trap door, dual stainless steel reflector type fixture that had cold start ballasts in them. They weigh about 15lbs each. ( they were free as he did not want to deal with disposing of the ballasts(
The tubes are easy to change in them as one end pushes in like the ones you illustrated. However once they break there is no one that makes them any longer, and the standard type tombstones will not retrofit into the fixture. This would require disposing of the fixture, and I really don't want to do that. The reflectors are pretty awesome.
As previously mentioned the T8's that I got were simply plug and play with no messing with the ballast. I shot the end connectors with my heat gun on the other fixtures and tubes and they do not seem to be any warmer than the tube itself, however a "flir" type heat gun may be better, but there does not seem to be an issue at present.
The fixtures with the newer type tombstones are only about 7 or 8 years old, the T8's are less than that I believe.
Still waiting for the 8 footers to come down in price. I missed a couple of "sales" on them. They are of the single pin type.
Retired Pauly
Problem with being retired is that you never get a day off.
1987 D21-J SD25 KC
KJLGD21FN

User avatar
asavage
Site Admin
Posts: 5346
Joined: 14 years ago
Location: Duvall, Wash.
Contact:

Re: LiftMaster (Chaimberlain) 8365W-267, & Homelink Compatibility Bridge

#9

Post by asavage » 1 month ago

Fluorescent lamp ballast previous to approximately 1978 contain PCBs and should not be disposed of with refuse, nor recycled for their metal content. We handle them as Hazmat.

Ballasts from ~1978 until branded "electronic", they'll be labeled "NO PCBs" somewhere on the label. We stick them in metal recycling.

Any newer ballast branded "electronic" go to e-waste for processing to remove at least the lead components.

No ballasts leave our premises with landfill garbage.
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.

plenzen
Posts: 867
Joined: 12 years ago
Location: Cochrane Alberta Canada

Re: LiftMaster (Chaimberlain) 8365W-267, & Homelink Compatibility Bridge

#10

Post by plenzen » 1 month ago

The recycle depot here has "a guy" in the room where you take ballasts, tubes ,cfl,s, rechargeable batteries, printer cartridges etc.
He looks at what you bring in. He took the 5 ballasts from those older fixtures from me and put them in their own barrel. The rest went into another barrel, so I assume they had the PCBs in them. One was actually leaking black goo.
The E waste area is behind a gated fenced area. They open the gate for you and let you dump your old computers, TVs printers etc.
Its gated now because of scavengers and possible FOIP concerns apparently.
Retired Pauly
Problem with being retired is that you never get a day off.
1987 D21-J SD25 KC
KJLGD21FN

User avatar
asavage
Site Admin
Posts: 5346
Joined: 14 years ago
Location: Duvall, Wash.
Contact:

Re: LiftMaster (Chaimberlain) 8365W-267, & Homelink Compatibility Bridge

#11

Post by asavage » 1 month ago

asavage wrote:
1 month ago
For us, the lampholders ("tombstones") rarely fail electrically, but fail constantly physically, as they approach 60 years old: the insulating material breaks and falls off.
Here's a couple I ran into today whilst relamping. They are not even original to the building, this fixture is probably only 30 years old.

Lamptholder-T8_broken_02b.jpg
Lamptholder-T8_broken_02b.jpg (593.54 KiB) Viewed 197 times
Lamptholder-T8_broken_01b.jpg
Lamptholder-T8_broken_01b.jpg (727.83 KiB) Viewed 197 times

I am not comfortable doing a ballast bypass on lampholders that are in this condition, and I would say around 25% of ours are like that.

Of course, they can be replaced, but I'm only one man and none of my co-workers are interested in rebuilding the thousands of old fixtures, so we use the drop-in replacement retrofit lamps and call it "good enough".
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.

plenzen
Posts: 867
Joined: 12 years ago
Location: Cochrane Alberta Canada

Re: LiftMaster (Chaimberlain) 8365W-267, & Homelink Compatibility Bridge

#12

Post by plenzen » 1 month ago

Holy smokes none of mine are any where's close to looking like those.
That being said... these are "mine" and perhaps a bit more care was taken when doing maintaince and changing etc. I'm never "rushed" to get to the next job..... maybe that plays a factor? Kind of like how some people drive rented cars ?
Some of them looked like they got pretty hot.
Retired Pauly
Problem with being retired is that you never get a day off.
1987 D21-J SD25 KC
KJLGD21FN

User avatar
asavage
Site Admin
Posts: 5346
Joined: 14 years ago
Location: Duvall, Wash.
Contact:

Re: LiftMaster (Chaimberlain) 8365W-267, & Homelink Compatibility Bridge

#13

Post by asavage » 1 month ago

I think the difference between ours and yours is that ours are almost all on 24/7. Few of the lights in a hospital are ever turned off. I've installed a lot of exterior lighting standalone astronomical timers (I like the WattStopper RT-200) and a lot of motion-detecting switches, but the majority are just ON and stay that way.

After decades, the plastic becomes friable, and no matter how careful you are, rotating the tube to align the bi-pins for removal inevitably ends up breaking the lampholder. Electrically, they continue to work, so as long as they're in an enclosed fixture, we run them.

The non-enclosed fixtures (generally in mechanical rooms, of which we have at least fifty), don't get as hot and often fare better.

Ideally, we'd replace all our lighting systems with more modern versions, but as a non-profit, that's not going to happen unless legislated.
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.

plenzen
Posts: 867
Joined: 12 years ago
Location: Cochrane Alberta Canada

Re: LiftMaster (Chaimberlain) 8365W-267, & Homelink Compatibility Bridge

#14

Post by plenzen » 1 month ago

What type of motion sensor light switch would you recommend. I wanted to use one for our laundry room. The switch is outside of the room but you do walk by it to enter the room. The problem is that it's constantly left on, by myself included. I thought something that would stay on for 20 minutes or so. Perhaps something that when you turn it on mechanically (entering) would time out and shut off if no motion was detected in the room

Not certain of such a device exists or not.
Retired Pauly
Problem with being retired is that you never get a day off.
1987 D21-J SD25 KC
KJLGD21FN

User avatar
asavage
Site Admin
Posts: 5346
Joined: 14 years ago
Location: Duvall, Wash.
Contact:

Re: LiftMaster (Chaimberlain) 8365W-267, & Homelink Compatibility Bridge

#15

Post by asavage » 1 month ago

For motion-sensing, I love this model:

Occupancy Sensor, PIR, 2100 sq. ft. LEVITON, White ODS10-IDW (product info).

I've installed maybe 80-120 of these. Have two of them installed at home, love them. They have four time settings: 30 seconds (for walking test), 10 minutes, 20 minutes, and 30 minutes. The default is 10 mins. and I generally leave them set that way, unless it's for a closet, in which case I set it to 30-second mode, because in a closet, you can't not trigger it constantly. It also has a photocell with adjustable blinders, and can be set to inhibit the circuit turning on if a certain light threshold is present; I don't use that feature, but it could be handy for areas that are bright during a sunny day and you wouldn't want the light to come on.

Leviton_Motion_Sensor_ODS10-IDW.jpg
Leviton ODS10-IDW motion sensor
Leviton_Motion_Sensor_ODS10-IDW.jpg (88.71 KiB) Viewed 175 times

Another solution I have at home (not so much at work) is a bathroom fan timer. Generically, these are called "Countdown Timers". I have around a dozen of them around my house. For our bathrooms with fans, I like the WattStopper/Legrand RT-50 (Amazon). Really nice units. They're discontinuing that model. It has six timer buttons: 1, 5, 10, 20, 30, 60 minutes. I use the 60 min. after I shower, to reduce mold issues in our master bath. It remembers your last choice, so you can press the big button instead of the small ones next time. On power outage, it defaults to 1 min., so you always know when you had a power bump. They're not cheap (though I see some on eBay, NIB, for 1/3 Amazon's price. I may have to pick up a couple more at that price).

Wattstopper_RT-50_01.jpg
WattStopper RT-50 timer
Wattstopper_RT-50_01.jpg (10.07 KiB) Viewed 175 times

Then, I have wireless remote countdown timers for a couple of table- and floor-fans. On the remote, press the button for the desired preset time, and the fan will run for that long and shut off. I have a table fan in the master bath to clear the mirrors and dry off the countertops, and I run it for an hour after every morning shower.

GE-branded, but it's not really GE. Model 36240 (Amazon). I have four of these at home, for remote fans, and one at Mom's for a floor fan.

Also, at work, I have a piece of equipment that I use maybe twice a day, sometimes only twice a week. It interfaces with my PC. It has a cooling fan and no filter. I'm in a reasonably dirty office environment, and it sits next to my desk. I don't want it to run all the time, and I don't want to remember to turn it off. I use this remote timer to turn it on, and it turns itself off 30 mins. later.

Of the four, ONE won't work at home, but works if I take it to work. I assume frequency jamming with something. Other than that, I've had zero problems with them, except you can't read the embossed markings on the buttons (I keep meaning to paint them, but I forget). It doesn't have an integrated ground, so I did have to do a wire-around for that office machine.


GE_36240_01b.jpg
GE 36240 Remote Wireless Countdown Timer
GE_36240_01b.jpg (21.48 KiB) Viewed 175 times
GE_36240_02b.jpg
GE 36240 Remote Wireless Countdown Timer
GE_36240_02b.jpg (40.61 KiB) Viewed 175 times
GE_36240_03b.jpg
GE 36240 Remote Wireless Countdown Timer
GE_36240_03b.jpg (83.42 KiB) Viewed 175 times
GE_36240_04b.jpg
GE 36240 Remote Wireless Countdown Timer
GE_36240_04b.jpg (148.58 KiB) Viewed 175 times

If you only need one wireless remote countdown timer, the Woods 59781WD (Amazon) is much cheaper, and the buttons are much more legible. I've got one, works great, but you can have ONLY one, because you can't change its frequency, and they're all the same. Ask me how I know :(


Woods_59781WD_01b.jpg
Woods 59781WD Wireless Countdown Timer
Woods_59781WD_01b.jpg (58.93 KiB) Viewed 175 times

Finally, I have a large-format flatbed scanner with a cooling fan for the lamp and electronics, and I use a Century BNH-60-SU107 plug-in countdown timer so it isn't left pulling dust into the optics for no reason. It is a discontinued model which didn't get great reviews (many had internal burn-up issues), but it has eight discrete buttons, which I prefer over the programmable replacement version.
Century_Countdown_Timer_BNH-60-SU107_01b.jpg
Century Countdown Timer BNH-60-SU107
Century_Countdown_Timer_BNH-60-SU107_01b.jpg (61.13 KiB) Viewed 175 times
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=77SjdTn_whE
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.

Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest