Questions about my "new" Maxima Diesel

Discuss (and cuss) the Nissan LD-series OHC Six diesel engine, popularly available in the US in 1981-83 Datsun/Nissan Maxima Sedans & Wagons.

Moderators: plenzen, glenlloyd, goglio704, Nissan_Ranger

Post Reply
pitansk
Posts: 4
Joined: 15 years ago

Questions about my "new" Maxima Diesel

#1

Post by pitansk »

Hello all,

My name is John and I live in Estes Park, CO. I just picked up my first Japanese diesel in the form of a gold 1981 Maxima with the LD28 running the show.

Since all my diesel experience is with Mercedes-Benz, I humbly submit to the knowledge of this board a few questions:

I have a two broken vac connections and can't figure out where they need to go. Check out the pics.

Two lines originate here near the alternator:

Image

On the other side of the engine bay, one line terminates in this photo (circled in black). The other one is dangling uselessly in the same general area.

Image

Notice the red circle where there is a broken line. Does the dangler terminate there? The length of the dangler is no where near long enough to reach the red circled connection. If the dangler isn't supposed to go to the broken connection, what is?

(also note doorbell gp relay installed by PO...works great!!!!)

I know that the vacuum lines in the Benzes are crucial to proper performance, so I would love to get these lines, ahem, in line.

OK, second issue:

Image

Something is missing here! Is this a cruise control actuator that's missing an adjustment screw? (red circle) The small piston on the vac controlled actuator moves back and forth about a centimeter or so. Is this within spec?

Third question:

The wagon (her name is Ishmelda) was getting hot on the way up the hill yesterday so I checked her thermostat and, drum roll... it's the bogus one without a valve to close the bypass. Is it ok to pull the thermostat and drive without one, at least temporarily?

I need to go to Grand Junction tomorrow for some errands and I was hoping on finding the correct thermostat there rather than wait for NAPA to order it here in Estes. Does anyone have a part number for the correct t-stat?

Fourth question:

If the power steering belt snaps, what are the consequences, apart from losing power steering?

Last question:

The brake light is on and the discs squeel and cause the steering to shudder. Nothing too terrible, but I want to look into it asap. Seems like I need new rotors and pads, but I want to rule out the steering rack. Sounds like brakes to me, but does anyone have a different idea?

Many thanks in advance for the help. I look forward to solving problems with folks on this board. The mercedes forum I frequent is full of smart people who are always willing to offer advice; I'm sure this forum is very similar.

Cheers,
John
User avatar
asavage
Site Admin
Posts: 5365
Joined: 15 years ago
Location: Duvall, Wash.
Contact:

Re: Questions about my "new" Maxima Diesel

#2

Post by asavage »

Hello, John, and Welcome to our Sandbox!

If you get a chance, click on the "Profile" button on the top of any page, and add at least your geographic info on that page, so I don't have to remember where you are next week ;) Also, you might want to put "1981 Wagon" or somesuch in your Signature block on the same page. It can be difficult to remember each person's ride without these crib notes!

I don't think we have any other 1981 members at this time. Mostly '82s and '83s. I like Wagons :)
pitansk wrote: I have a two broken vac connections and can't figure out where they need to go. Check out the pics.
The vac solenoid on right strut tower operates the A/C idle kicker. The rearmost line probably had a red stripe on it originally (mine does) and runs to the tee over the alternator/vac pump as shown in your pic.

The "forward" vac connection on the solenoid would likely have had a white stripe on it, and should run to the idle kicker dashpot, the one where you are missing the 6mm adjust screw. Yes, about 1cm stroke seems about right from what I recall. The adjust screw has a jam nut and a rounded head that you could likely duplicate with a hardware-store-sourced bolt, a little work with a bench grinder and some fine sandpaper for finishing.

(click on any image for larger)
Image Image

The function of the solenoid & the kicker dashpot is to prop the idle a bit when the A/C compressor's clutch is engaged.
(also note doorbell gp relay installed by PO...works great!!!!)
Watch out: the Maxima uses fast-glow plugs which can easily be burnt out by incautious manual actuation.
I know that the vacuum lines in the Benzes are crucial to proper performance . . .
Unlike the MB, loss of vacuum won't affect the door locks nor engine shutoff! 1983 Maxima diesels have a vacuum switch (located in the power brake booster) that illuminates a dash warning lamp if vacuum falls too low. (So does my '84 F250).
Something is missing here! Is this a cruise control actuator that's missing an adjustment screw? (red circle) The small piston on the vac controlled actuator moves back and forth about a centimeter or so. Is this within spec?
It's just an idle prop. The CC actuator is over below the WW motor, and runs a cable over to that sheave.

Put a drop or two of lubricant on that sheave's pivot; around here, it rusts up, and the engine won't return to idle.
Is it ok to pull the thermostat and drive without one, at least temporarily?
I don't recommend it. Some engines actually run hotter without the restriction that a thermostat provides. I do not know if the LD28 is one of these.
Does anyone have a part number for the correct t-stat?
See the FAQ, thermostat section for a link to my post with NAPA part Nos.
If the power steering belt snaps, what are the consequences, apart from losing power steering?
None. And remember, to properly replace the PS belt, you must remove the fan clutch and the belt sheave. There is insufficient clearance to install the belt otherwise -- without excessive force, anyway.

Have you acquired a Factory Service Manual yet? See the FAQ, FSM section for a handy eBay link to find manuals, but you'll find that the 1981 FSM is fairly difficult to find, and is actually two manuals (1981 ONLY). My recommendation is to acquire a 1982 FSM instead. If you can't get one for a decent price, I've been buying them up off eBay in auctions where nobody else bids (ie I won't bid against anyone who wants one) so I have several 1982 FSMs, and can provide one to you for $17 (including shipped Media rate), which works out to my cost. You can sometimes buy them as cheaply as five bux on eBay (plus shipping) if you're patient.

A FSM is absolutely required to do any serious work or even routine maintenance (IP belt) on the LD28, and it's actually a very good manual.
The brake light is on and the discs squeel and cause the steering to shudder. Nothing too terrible, but I want to look into it asap. Seems like I need new rotors and pads, but I want to rule out the steering rack.
Refer to 1981 FSM (Main) pg EL-58, 1982 FSM pg EL-66, or 1983 FSM pg EL-67:

The brake warning light can only come on via three means: bulb check relay (key ON, alternator not charging: activates bulb check relay); low brake fluid level sensor in the master cylinder reservoir; and the park brake lever switch.

It won't be the bulb check relay, because you'd have several other lights on as well. Check the brake fluid reservoir for its level. If level is OK, disconnect the level check sensor -- just unplug it from the rear/top of the reservoir. If the brake warning lamp remains on, you'll have to try to disconnect the park brake switch, which may be possible by working through the rubber flapper bits around the lever, but might also require removing the console.

In any event, one thing the brake warning lamp does not warn you about is pad wear!

Brake squeal is almost always cheap pad material or incorrect installation (ie no damping material or shim or damping goop on the back of the pads, caliper slideways not cleaned and greased with high-temp caliper grease, etc. Just a "pad slap" brake job). Shuddering upon applying the brakes (if felt in the steering wheel) can be loose wheel bearings (and if so, why are they loose? Because they need replacement, not regreasing and adjustment!), but is more often warped or worn out rotors. Plan on wheel brg seals too at a minimum, and if you have many miles on them, I just replace the brgs, as they are not what I'd call oversize for the weight of the Wagon.

The tie rod ends, both inner and outer, do wear out on the Gen1 Maximas. Both inner and outer rod ends are replaceable. I have just fabricated the inner tie rod end tool this week, and it's available for loan. I bought a "rebuilt" rack off eBay, and it was shipped from a liquidator in Saint Louis -- naturally, it is water-damaged, with a frozen inner tie rod end. I bought a replacement inner, and am replacing it only, then swapping out my rack in the '83 Wagon, as it has the usual bad accordion boots on both sides, with lots of crap in the rack.

The lower ball joints and outer tie rod ends do require periodic greasing. Don't overlook them.
The mercedes forum I frequent is full of smart people who are always willing to offer advice; I'm sure this forum is very similar.
Advice you'll get. Whether from smart folks or not is a crap shoot ;)

Again, Welcome!
Last edited by asavage 12 years ago, edited 1 time in total.
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.
User avatar
asavage
Site Admin
Posts: 5365
Joined: 15 years ago
Location: Duvall, Wash.
Contact:

#3

Post by asavage »

Oh, I just found that I do have a spare 1981 Diesel Supplement. In 1981 only, the diesel-specific info was packaged in a separate manual, about 1/4 the thickness of the Main manual. I forgot that I bought a second Supplement. While I think that the integrated 1982 FSM is easier overall to use than the separate manuals in 1981, if you really want the 1981 FSMs, I would be willing to sell the spare Supplement I have. Because it's so hard to find, it's not as cheap though. Say, $15 for the Supplement only -- and then you still have to round up the Main FSM. Not my first choice, but it's here if you need it.
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.
pitansk
Posts: 4
Joined: 15 years ago

Some points....

#4

Post by pitansk »

Al,

Muchas gracias for your response and great photo of the idle prop.

It looks like i just have the two errant vac lines criss crossed on the solenoid above the right strut tower. I'll just flip flop them and call it good. Might need an extra length of the red striped line, but that's easy. Would the absence of the adjust screw for the dashpot and the unhinged vac connections account for cruise failure? Seems likely, as the CC light comes on when I flip the switch inside and the controls on the stalk seem to be in working order.

Doesn't the PS belt also drive the oil pump? Or is the oil pump driven by the timing chain? Or neither???? Is that middle pulley just an idler?

The NAPA part No.s for the T-stat all point to the bogus one without the extended spring. I double checked their website and I am sure the folks down at NAPA here in Estes will have no clue what I am talking about if I ask them about it. (they tried to sell me a $24.95 PS belt yesterday!!!)

Thanks so much for the help. After I get these little things out of the way, I am going to work on the IP timing and injector health in an effort to reduce the black smoke. Ishmelda smokes out the traffic at least 4 times as much as my MB 240D (which is a campfire, for sure).

Cheers!
John

ps. Al, whatever literature you have regarding the 1981 I would gladly purchase from you. PM me the details.
Estes Park, CO
1981 810 Maxima LD28 149k "Ishmelda"
User avatar
kassim503
Posts: 1027
Joined: 15 years ago
Location: Stony Brook, NY

#5

Post by kassim503 »

Not an expert on the ld28 but i do know the oil pump is not driven by the pwr steering belt, so if it snapped your good to drive, just dont jam the wheel on the curb :)


Oh are you taking about the middle pulley, its about 2 inches in diameter and is painted blue, connected to nothing, and it has a screw thing next to it? Thats the tensioner for the PS belt (idler in fancy talk).


Oh and al, I think you posted twice
Last edited by kassim503 15 years ago, edited 2 times in total.
'83 maxima sedan, l24e, a/t, black

227K SOLD 6/7/2012
User avatar
asavage
Site Admin
Posts: 5365
Joined: 15 years ago
Location: Duvall, Wash.
Contact:

Re: Some points....

#6

Post by asavage »

pitansk wrote:It looks like i just have the two errant vac lines criss crossed on the solenoid above the right strut tower. I'll just flip flop them and call it good. Might need an extra length of the red striped line, but that's easy.
Actually, I had a fairly hard time finding the right size around here.
Would the absence of the adjust screw for the dashpot and the unhinged vac connections account for cruise failure?
The latter, possibly. The idle prop screw isn't going to affect the CC no matter what. There are hoses on the two CC dump valves (on firewall) that commonly crack and cause CC failure (ask Kassim about that one, he's got a thread here about it somewhere).
Doesn't the PS belt also drive the oil pump? Or is the oil pump driven by the timing chain? Or neither???? Is that middle pulley just an idler?
No, no, and yes. Yes. The oil pump is driven off the crankshaft, and the cam chain is not involved.
The NAPA part No.s for the T-stat all point to the bogus one without the extended spring.
This post?

NAPA (Beck-Arneley) BA 1430628
Image

NAPA (Beck-Arneley) BA 1430354
Image

They look correct to me. The other NAPA thermostat is wrong, but NAPA sells from several different product lines.
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.
User avatar
kassim503
Posts: 1027
Joined: 15 years ago
Location: Stony Brook, NY

#7

Post by kassim503 »

Oh you have CC woes?

I would check the vaccuum hoses before throwing parts at the problem, there are lines that run along the firewall, right up next to the a/c lines, they go down next to the tranny dipstick, some vaccuum tubes go to dump valves and some go to the CC cable. I dont remember the exact setup off the top of my head but ill dig into the FSM tommorow night. The vac hoses get pretty brittle after all these years and they usually snap if you look at them wrong.

What exactly is your CC problem? Does it engage? Does it engage and the engine goes WOT? If it dosent engage I would try getting it up to speed, tapering off, then carefully engage it. When I had the busted up vac lines this method worked for me.
'83 maxima sedan, l24e, a/t, black

227K SOLD 6/7/2012
pitansk
Posts: 4
Joined: 15 years ago

Re: Some points....

#8

Post by pitansk »

NAPA (Beck-Arneley) BA 1430354
Image


thats the one i want! i was assuming NAPA wouldnt stock the BA parts. i will ask the goofy footed NAPA folks tomorrow if they can get me the correct one.

cheers!
JW
Estes Park, CO
1981 810 Maxima LD28 149k "Ishmelda"
pitansk
Posts: 4
Joined: 15 years ago

Re: Some points....

#9

Post by pitansk »

Actually, I had a fairly hard time finding the right size around here.
its real easy to use small fuel line (like 1/16th OD) and splice using the hard plastic lines MB uses. its just a matter of heading over to your local MB shop or JY and finding a length of the hard plastic MB line, either new or used. its brittle either way. i had success with my old benzes using this approach.

i plan to do that tomorrow at NAPA, since i know they wont have the correct vac lines in stock for an 81 Datsun.

cheers,
JW
[/quote]
Estes Park, CO
1981 810 Maxima LD28 149k "Ishmelda"
User avatar
asavage
Site Admin
Posts: 5365
Joined: 15 years ago
Location: Duvall, Wash.
Contact:

#10

Post by asavage »

asavage wrote:The function of the solenoid & the kicker dashpot is to prop the idle a bit when the A/C compressor's clutch is engaged.
I just realized that Nissan calls it the FICD: Fast Idle Control Device magnet valve.
Last edited by asavage 15 years ago, edited 1 time in total.
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.
User avatar
philip
Deceased
Posts: 1494
Joined: 15 years ago
Location: Southern California, USA

Re: Questions about my "new" Maxima Diesel

#11

Post by philip »

pitansk wrote:Hello all,

My name is John and I live in Estes Park, CO. I just picked up my first Japanese diesel in the form of a gold 1981 Maxima with the LD28 running the show.
SNIP
The wagon (her name is Ishmelda) was getting hot on the way up the hill yesterday so I checked her thermostat and, drum roll... it's the bogus one without a valve to close the bypass. Is it ok to pull the thermostat and drive without one, at least temporarily?
Here's the problem with removing the thermostat entirely. There is less resistance to flow over the short cut "bypass" path back to the water pump inlet than the path through the radiator. Closing OFF the bypass path (the purpose of the disc on the end of the thermostat) forces all coolant through the radiator in order to reach the waterpump inlet.

So ... removing the "bogus" thermostat will not accomplish better cooling.
-Philip
Passed 08May2008
My friend, you are missed . . .

1982 Datsun 720KC SD-22

"Im slow and I'm ahead of you"
83_maxima
Posts: 423
Joined: 15 years ago
Location: Denver

#12

Post by 83_maxima »

This is my car.

I am begnning to wonder if John actually replaced the thermostat. He didn't do any work on the brakes - I still have the shimmiy with new rotors. The pads are next to go.

The screw on the FICD is still missing.

I don't see any hard plastic MB vacuum lines on it either.

It looks like he sold the car 10 days after he made that last post. :?
Carimbo
Posts: 463
Joined: 15 years ago

#13

Post by Carimbo »

My FLAPS was able to cross-ref the Beck-Arnley number of the t-stat I wanted; they had (their version of) it in stock.

Front wheel shimmy upon initial braking can also be caused by bad wheel balance. Getting the wheels balanced has cleared this up for me.
User avatar
kassim503
Posts: 1027
Joined: 15 years ago
Location: Stony Brook, NY

#14

Post by kassim503 »

83_maxima wrote:This is my car.

I am begnning to wonder if John actually replaced the thermostat. He didn't do any work on the brakes - I still have the shimmiy with new rotors. The pads ar....
Am I missing something here?

Along the lines of selling and buying a vehicle?
'83 maxima sedan, l24e, a/t, black

227K SOLD 6/7/2012
glenlloyd
Posts: 640
Joined: 15 years ago
Location: Des Moines, Iowa

#15

Post by glenlloyd »

kassim503 wrote:
83_maxima wrote:This is my car.

I am begnning to wonder if John actually replaced the thermostat. He didn't do any work on the brakes - I still have the shimmiy with new rotors. The pads ar....
Am I missing something here?

Along the lines of selling and buying a vehicle?
Ben (83_Maxima), who bought a Maxi wagon recently, did not post this thread originally, but the seller of the vehicle (to Ben) did. Obviously the PO (or a PPO) didn't do much after he got it, as witnessed by the issues that Ben found.

sa
Last edited by glenlloyd 14 years ago, edited 1 time in total.
97 Jetta TDI, 86 VW Golf D
89 VW Fox diesel, 92 MB 300SD W140

gir - won't the sploding hurt?
zim - silence!
Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest