Injection pump and biodiesel conversion 83' sedan

[shark]

Hello all,
Leak is at the back of the pump and it has to come out. I am all the way down to removing the pump and can not figure out how to gain access to the last nut between the engine and IP. Any suggestions?

While I am this far, any other items to consider when running B100?
fuel lines
IP front seal (other seals being replaced)
stock fuel filter ok?


I will search the forum tonight for parts resources(seals,lines, filters, belts). Is all this info in one spot by chance?

[asavage]

Leak is at the back of the pump and it has to come out. I am all the way down to removing the pump and can not figure out how to gain access to the last nut between the engine and IP. Any suggestions?

1/4" drive, extension. That's how I pulled mine (I think). Maybe a 1/4" wobbly, I can't remember.

As the FSM states, the IP can be removed with ALL the injector lines intact.

Have you read up on timing this thing? You basically can't do it the factory method without enormous hurdles and special tools. Read the mechanical timing thread. If you're smart, you match-marked the IP to the timing cover, so you can put it back exactly the same. It's a major PITA.

Diesel injection timing is a lot more sensitive than gasser timing. The difference between just running, and running well, can be 2°.

Definitely replace the IP belt. Tensioner optional but recommended. Part Nos. in the FAQ, IP section.

[shark]

Has anyone found an IP pump seal kit or individual pieces that are biodiesel safe = viton? I have seen a number of suppliers in one of the threads but the viton composition question brings up more questions. I have the front seal on the way but need other Orings and such.

The leak in the pump appeared to be coming from between the distributor cover and pump housing. When the car was started the side of the distributor cover was completely covered with diesel. Looked like it was coming up from betweeen where these two parts mate. IF this sounds like something more major than a seal let me know.

[asavage]

The leak in the pump appeared to be coming from between the distributor cover and pump housing.

That is probably one of the trickiest seals to replace. You have a high potential to damage parts in that area. Be very sure to clean every trace of crap off the exteriour of the IP before disassembly. Make your work area spotless, use butcher paper as a workbench covering to provide high visual contrast, consider putting up a ledge/edge/border on the bench so parts don't roll off. Print out the exploded views and have them handy. Take pictures along the way if that helps.

That location is a common leak point on the Four cylinder VE IPs, but not as common as the top cover and accel shaft seal. Just not your good-luck week, Aaron.

No, I don't have a ready-made source for guaranteed-BD-compatible seals & parts for a VE reseal adventure. I haven't had to do one yet, and neither has anybody whose opinion I trust for accurate info. A lot of old stock is being sold as "biodiesel compatible" when it's been sitting on a shelf for fifteen years, so you want a nice, clean, new box when you get a "kit". The parts themselves are not expensive. Matt (goglio704) did a lot of calling around, so did Steve (glenlloyd). I'm hoping one or both of them will pop in to this thread about now.

[glenlloyd]

I haven't been thinking in this direction for a while but I need to. I'll revisit the sources I found and see if I can get them to guarentee that the kits I buy will be viton. I need to now more than ever. My 86 Golf has sprung a gusher of a leak from what appears to be (can't really see it that well) the timing advance lever shaft seal area. It's a major pita because you have to remove the pump to repair it; too close to the engine!

here:


I'll dig out my old emails and locate the suppliers and get the emails sent.

sa

[asavage]

My 86 Golf has sprung a gusher of a leak from what appears to be (can't really see it that well) the timing advance lever shaft seal area.

Which makes me doubly glad that the LD IPs don't have that particular shaft seal

[glenlloyd]

Personally I've never used the feature although I did reconnect the cable when I installed the engine. It's operated by a dash mounted pull handle and supposedly eases starting in the winter. I wish it didn't have it to be honest.

It shouldn't be too tough of a job to pull the pump, it's just that I would prefer not to have to do that right now.

sa