Hello, John, and Welcome to our Sandbox!
If you get a chance, click on the "Profile" button on the top of any page, and add at least your geographic info on that page, so I don't have to remember where you are next week
Also, you might want to put "1981 Wagon" or somesuch in your Signature block on the same page. It can be difficult to remember each person's ride without these crib notes!
I don't think we have any other 1981 members at this time. Mostly '82s and '83s. I like Wagons
pitansk wrote:
I have a two broken vac connections and can't figure out where they need to go. Check out the pics.
The vac solenoid on right strut tower operates the A/C idle kicker. The rearmost line probably had a red stripe on it originally (mine does) and runs to the tee over the alternator/vac pump as shown in your pic.
The "forward" vac connection on the solenoid would likely have had a white stripe on it, and should run to the idle kicker dashpot, the one where you are missing the 6mm adjust screw. Yes, about 1cm stroke seems about right from what I recall. The adjust screw has a jam nut and a rounded head that you could likely duplicate with a hardware-store-sourced bolt, a little work with a bench grinder and some fine sandpaper for finishing.
(click on any image for larger)
The function of the solenoid & the kicker dashpot is to prop the idle a bit when the A/C compressor's clutch is engaged.
(also note doorbell gp relay installed by PO...works great!!!!)
Watch out: the Maxima uses fast-glow plugs which can easily be burnt out by incautious manual actuation.
I know that the vacuum lines in the Benzes are crucial to proper performance . . .
Unlike the MB, loss of vacuum won't affect the door locks nor engine shutoff! 1983 Maxima diesels have a vacuum switch (located in the power brake booster) that illuminates a dash warning lamp if vacuum falls too low. (So does my '84 F250).
Something is missing here! Is this a cruise control actuator that's missing an adjustment screw? (red circle) The small piston on the vac controlled actuator moves back and forth about a centimeter or so. Is this within spec?
It's just an idle prop. The CC actuator is over below the WW motor, and runs a cable over to that sheave.
Put a drop or two of lubricant on that sheave's pivot; around here, it rusts up, and the engine won't return to idle.
Is it ok to pull the thermostat and drive without one, at least temporarily?
I don't recommend it. Some engines actually run hotter without the restriction that a thermostat provides. I do not know if the LD28 is one of these.
Does anyone have a part number for the correct t-stat?
See
the FAQ, thermostat section for a link to my post with NAPA part Nos.
If the power steering belt snaps, what are the consequences, apart from losing power steering?
None. And remember, to properly replace the PS belt, you must remove the fan clutch and the belt sheave. There is insufficient clearance to install the belt otherwise -- without excessive force, anyway.
Have you acquired a Factory Service Manual yet? See
the FAQ, FSM section for a handy eBay link to find manuals, but you'll find that the 1981 FSM is fairly difficult to find, and is actually
two manuals (1981 ONLY). My recommendation is to acquire a 1982 FSM instead. If you can't get one for a decent price, I've been buying them up off eBay in auctions where nobody else bids (ie I won't bid against anyone who wants one) so I have several 1982 FSMs, and can provide one to you for $17 (including shipped Media rate), which works out to my cost. You can sometimes buy them as cheaply as five bux on eBay (plus shipping) if you're patient.
A FSM is absolutely required to do any serious work or even routine maintenance (IP belt) on the LD28, and it's actually a very good manual.
The brake light is on and the discs squeel and cause the steering to shudder. Nothing too terrible, but I want to look into it asap. Seems like I need new rotors and pads, but I want to rule out the steering rack.
Refer to 1981 FSM (Main) pg EL-58, 1982 FSM pg EL-66, or 1983 FSM pg EL-67:
The brake warning light can only come on via three means: bulb check relay (key ON, alternator not charging: activates bulb check relay); low brake fluid level sensor in the master cylinder reservoir; and the park brake lever switch.
It won't be the bulb check relay, because you'd have several other lights on as well. Check the brake fluid reservoir for its level. If level is OK, disconnect the level check sensor -- just unplug it from the rear/top of the reservoir. If the brake warning lamp remains on, you'll have to try to disconnect the park brake switch, which may be possible by working through the rubber flapper bits around the lever, but might also require removing the console.
In any event, one thing the brake warning lamp does
not warn you about is pad wear!
Brake squeal is almost always cheap pad material or incorrect installation (ie no damping material or shim or damping goop on the back of the pads, caliper slideways not cleaned and greased with high-temp caliper grease, etc. Just a "pad slap" brake job). Shuddering upon applying the brakes (if felt in the steering wheel) can be loose wheel bearings (and if so, why are they loose? Because they need replacement, not regreasing and adjustment!), but is more often warped or worn out rotors. Plan on wheel brg seals too at a minimum, and if you have many miles on them, I just replace the brgs, as they are not what I'd call oversize for the weight of the Wagon.
The tie rod ends, both inner and outer, do wear out on the Gen1 Maximas. Both inner and outer rod ends are replaceable. I have just fabricated the inner tie rod end tool this week, and it's available for loan. I bought a "rebuilt" rack off eBay, and it was shipped from a liquidator in Saint Louis -- naturally, it is water-damaged, with a frozen inner tie rod end. I bought a replacement inner, and am replacing it only, then swapping out my rack in the '83 Wagon, as it has the usual bad accordion boots on both sides, with lots of crap in the rack.
The lower ball joints and outer tie rod ends do require periodic greasing. Don't overlook them.
The mercedes forum I frequent is full of smart people who are always willing to offer advice; I'm sure this forum is very similar.
Advice you'll get. Whether from smart folks or not is a crap shoot
Again, Welcome!
