83 Maxima LD28 STILL Will NOT start

[arcatalibra]

Hello to everyone-I am new to the discussion -
Bought my 83 maxima diesel (LD28) -6cyl/ man tranmission from the original owner about 3 months ago.

Its way up there 270k , but I pd $1000 so far I replaced the starter.

I ran bd20 in it until the station switched to bd99 and said no to the fuel line replacement prospect

I had the oil changed, then had to fill up wtih reg. diesel because no more bd20 around here.

About 1/4 way into the pet. diesel - it just will not start now.
Luckily it is at home (didn't leave me stranded)
I am confused. I didn't expect this. It was running great!
I need it to go- ya know? I LOVE this CAR!

It is not the battery, when I turn it on- the glow plug light comes on, goes out and then INSTEAD OF the click to start there is this is a nasty very loud buzzing noise that comes from -?
?? the small box above the glow relay( per the sticker) my friend said the thing vibrated like crazy when he had his hand on it.
Is this perhaps the glow timer- the little box? I asked the kragen auto parts- they know nothing of course- Nissan is closed til Monday-


I ave a FSM coming found one for $23. so taking it to the shop- hopefully they can read the book- I am not a mech.

I

[Carimbo]

A little difficult to understand your description.

and then INSTEAD OF the click to start there is this is a nasty very loud buzzing noise that comes from -?

Does that mean the engine is not cranking over? Or is it grinding? What is the condition of the battery? Cables/terminals?
A better description could help us point you in the right direction.

[glenlloyd]

Did the car quit running suddenly or did it begin to show signs of not wanting to run? If it was running and then didn't want to start at all I would suspect the IP timing belt might be broken.

Also, did you replace the fuel filter recently?

There are several things that could be causing your problem, it would be good to have more information about what transpired.

steve a

[arcatalibra]

It just will not "engage". the starter cranks fine.

I took the battery out, under the battery plate- between the battery area and the fan discovered nasty nasty corrosion THRU the wires that go to the glow plug "plate".

See i put the key in, wait for the glow plug click and don't haer it- I hear a loud buzzing coming from...the sopt mentioned above.

I am geting brave - i want to fix it myself and I am thinking I can try at least this wire repair-

Am I being foolish? I been 10 days with no start I am getting motivated to JUST DO IT.

I am a 40 yr old single mom with no $ to take it to the dealership and no alternative trans.

[arcatalibra]

Fuel filter-
I can't get the drain plug to open on the bottom of the fuel filter- I was gonna try to check it for water, but no open- and

I have a new nissan fuel filter but don't I need a special tool to change it?
See I was thinking fuel filter but I found this bunch of wires eaten half way thru and think this is NOT helping?

thanks so much for replys I really appreciate it !

Back to the search for rotten wires, etc....
OH HAPPY 4th of July everybody!

[TheDieseliminator]

Hi, for getting to the fuel filter's drain plug you need a tool that will crack it loose so as you won't break it because it is plastic. A 20 year old vehicles' plastic parts tend to be brittle and will break with little effort. You don't need any special tools to change the fuel filter on the car and a pair of small to medium sized channel lock pliers can be used to crack the plastic drain screw at the bottom of the filter. To change out the fuel filter it is easiest to remove the whole filter with its screw on filter assembly off the mounting point at the inner passenger fender when the hood is popped. This will allow you to get better access to both the filter and the plastic drain screw below. Plus you can loosen the old fuel filter with more leverage as you need to unscrew it from the filter assembly. After you get the plastic drain screw loose make sure you have a small container where you can drain any excess diesel fuel from the old filter out. After that you are pretty much ready to install the new filter, remount it to the inner passenger fender, and hook up both fuel lines right back to it. Good luck and hope this helps.

Salvy

[arcatalibra]

Wow-
THANK YOU !
You all are something else!
XOXO
I'm gonna give it a shot.

I shall return...
L

[Carimbo]

I took the battery out, under the battery plate- between the battery area and the fan discovered nasty nasty corrosion THRU the wires that go to the glow plug "plate".

This is probably a pretty common problem. If these are the wires I think you are describing, they should have fusible links as a portion of them. Often these are poorly replaced, or kludged with household wiring wirenuts, etc. A good rewiring job will help a lot here, if not to solve the current problem, then for helping to avoid future problems.

If these wires are in bad shape, there is a good chance the others are also marginal. Inspect them all while you are at it.

See also This section in the FAQ.

[asavage]

. . . After that you are pretty much ready to install the new filter, remount it to the inner passenger fender, and hook up both fuel lines right back to it.

Um, what about the bleed procedure? Are you going to detail that too? It's pretty important, don't you think?

If you just screw on a new filter, it won't start, or it won't run very long!

[TheDieseliminator]

Um, what about the bleed procedure? Are you going to detail that too? It's pretty important, don't you think?

If you just screw on a new filter, it won't start, or it won't run very long!

Al, I didn't happen to go through every little detail but I should have added that step and maybe another one in before I was finished typing. What I did when I changed the fuel filter on my car a few months back was to pour diesel fuel into the new fuel filter before I screwed it back onto the filter assembly. Filling it up to at least 1/2 or 3/4 the way up is going to help out that much more when you go to install the whole unit back into the car. And when you install back into the car there is a little philip's screw head mounted on the filter assembly which is on the right side or closest to the injector side of the engine. Loosening up that screw is required in the bleeding procedure isn't it? In addition to doing all that, we also poured diesel fuel down the return fuel line going to the tank until it started to slightly pour out the end of the hose to insure a better start up procedure. This is the best advice I could offer to one who is going about changing the fuel filter. And sorry I forgot to add these few steps in the procedure.

Salvy

[asavage]

What I did when I changed the fuel filter on my car a few months back was to pour diesel fuel into the new fuel filter before I screwed it back onto the filter assembly.

I don't recommend this, but if you do it, be certain to add diesel to the OUTSIDE holes of the filter, so that the fuel becomes filtered. If you add fuel to the center hole, you will have unfiltered fuel going to the injector pump.

Filter bleed procedure (from an LD20/28 manual) is here (click on image)


I leave all hoses connected to the filter head. I unplug the water-in-fuel sensor (blue wire on bottom of filter) about 6" from the filter at its bullet connector. Use an oil filter wrench

$8


$18


(get one that will work for the filter's diameter! Measure and know the filter diameter before purchasing the wrench.).

Leave the filter head bolted to the chassis; this gives you adequate leverage to use the filter wrench. If the filter is on especially tight (if someone overtightened it, for example), you won't be able to remove it from the filter head unless you leave the head bolted to the car, or have a good bench vise.

Work the filter wrench over the blue wire at the bottom of the filter, and up onto the filter. Use the filter wrench to loosen the filter (about one turn), then take the wrench back off, being careful to not damage the water-in-fuel sensor wire in the process. Now put the tray or rags or whatever under the filter, spin off the filter keeping it straight up, manoeuver it out around the hoses, turn it upside-down in a bucket or coffee car or section of garden you will never smell, and go to work removing the water-in-fuel sensor. It "just" unscrews, unless it was installed cross-threaded, in which case you'll have to order a new one anyay.

Transfer the sensor to the new filter, lightly oil (not grease) the filter's o-ring, then spin the new filter onto the head by hand ONLY.

When tightening the new filter onto head, never use the filter wrench or any other tool to tighten it. It installs hand-tight only.

Proceed to bleed the filter. Dispose of leftover fuel, clean up tools, take notes, write date and mileage on side of fuel filter with permanent marker.

[arcatalibra]

thanks folks
L
Happy 4TH OF July!

[arcatalibra]

AL & others
Back with a corrosion update on my maxi.

SO- I am now fairly certain I should spend the $55 to order the main harness from local Mccrea nissan. I am sitting with no wheels. my so called friends with cars are increasingly flaky when I need a ride.

I went back out to her yesterday, pulled up & out the w/w tank, discovered w/w outlet tube nasty- gooey rubber had began to leak on the harness below-nice could that be why the w/w light kept flashing on the dash?

Ya know If I would have taken a closer look- like at WHY there was a spot of corrosion build-up sitting under a fairly new battery. I would have seen the main engine harness was TAPED over a previous corrosion site on the bunch coming off the posti battery cable.

AS I have said I know NOTHING about cars, electricity, etc.

But I say this fellas- I have seen the POWER of corrosion- gee- the stuff ATE THRU the section under the battery- all the way I have two unconnected ends of part # 24077 W32703 and I also have some LOVELY MELTED fusible link thing up above the ate thru wires.

I am loving it- I cried a bit earlier- almost.

Because I worry how far fried it is? Did I make it worse by trying to start it?
(ex-spouse) etc insisted my car was "flooded" and if I kept cranking it it would start. I don't know why I ever listen to him. BUT that aside

HEY newsflash-

[arcatalibra]

AL & others
Back with a corrosion update on my maxi.

SO- I am now fairly certain I should spend the $55 to order the main harness from local Mccrea nissan. I am sitting with no wheels. my so called friends with cars are increasingly flaky when I need a ride.

I went back out to her yesterday, pulled up & out the w/w tank, discovered w/w outlet tube nasty- gooey rubber had began to leak on the harness below-nice could that be why the w/w light kept flashing on the dash?

Ya know If I would have taken a closer look- like at WHY there was a spot of corrosion build-up sitting under a fairly new battery. I would have seen the main engine harness was TAPED over a previous corrosion site on the bunch coming off the posti battery cable.

AS I have said I know NOTHING about cars, electricity, etc.

But I say this fellas- I have seen the POWER of corrosion- gee- the stuff ATE THRU the section under the battery- all the way I have two unconnected ends of part # 24077 W32703 and I also have some LOVELY MELTED fusible link thing up above the ate thru wires.

I am loving it- I cried a bit earlier- almost.

Because I worry how far fried it is? Did I make it worse by trying to start it?
(ex-spouse) etc insisted my car was "flooded" and if I kept cranking it it would start. I don't know why I ever listen to him. BUT that aside

HEY newsflash- I am now the proud owner of the 1983 Maxi FSM Diesel & gasser Even has the fold out diagram of my fried wiring!

Any body HAVE a new harness for sale?
I'd pay up to retail for it to save witing a week for nisasan to order it - I only found one place on the web- don't know if I trust them any links for genuine nissan parts to share??

Libra

[kassim503]

nismoparts.com

I saw it in one of al's threads