Maxima locks, keys, and keycode

General information about the first-generation Nissan Maxima in the US. What was the Datsun 810 became the luxury leader Maxima in the US in 1981.

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kassim503
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#16

Post by kassim503 » 12 years ago

asavage wrote: Unrelated Q: my parts lookup is showing a lock that looks like it's a pushbutton lock for 1983-84. Can somebody with an '83 or '84 Sedan take a picture of their truck lock for me (inside and out, if possible)?

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Gonna have to click for larger- the giant pics in this thread blows my browsers scroll out until all of them load, so these are 2 less pics for me to fight against, Hey, any more scrolling my finger is gonna fall off
'83 maxima sedan, l24e, a/t, black

227K SOLD 6/7/2012

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asavage
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#17

Post by asavage » 12 years ago

Thanks, Kassim: obviously, it's not a pushbutton.
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.

Carimbo
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#18

Post by Carimbo » 12 years ago

asavage wrote:Alternatively, if you can get a used truck lock, I can rekey it for you for the same price: $30, including a new key. I would have to have your car's keycode or an existing key to do that.
That's the route I'll go-- Gen 1 Maxis show up often enough at the PaP that a decent lock should be available. Then you can rekey it for me.

I thought maybe there was a way to R/R the faceplate w/o destroying anything.

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asavage
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#19

Post by asavage » 12 years ago

The face cap does not include the shutter (the little spring-loaded door) in this case.
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.

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asavage
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#20

Post by asavage » 12 years ago

TruckA wrote:There are two phillips head screws, plus two brass looking pins. I don't want to break anything, so can anyone help me out with the secret of removing the ignition switch?
The two others are security bolts. The heads break off when they come up to torque.

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Auto Security Products wrote:F-16-502 - Package of two shear head bolts, 0.2 inch diameter, 0.75 inch thread section length [from the ASP catalog, pg. 27]
You can sometimes use a pointed chisel and catch one side of the head and walk it out that way. If you have room, you can also use a Dremel with a fine wheel and cut a slot into it -- you do end up cutting a slot in the screw's well walls, but that's OK.

I use both methods. The pin chisel method is slightly easier and less messy, but is not 100% effective.
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.

odie
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Location: CC, TX

#21

Post by odie » 12 years ago

I got a couple new keys cut at the dealer...

I took in my original keys with the key code stamped on the key, they werre able to cut brand new keys from the code....

they work but it does require quite a bit of jiggling and playing with it to get them to work....shows how worn the old tumblers are.

I'll probably go get duplicates of the worn out keys made at the local Wally World so the new keys are pre-worn to match the worn tumblers
1996 VW Passat B4V TDI diesel...main ride
1983 Maxima LD28..sold
1984 Isuzu P'up diesel 4x4..sold
1981 Rabbit diesel - sold
1984 MB 190 diesel - for sale...sold
1987 MB 300TDT diesel...sold
1983 Holiday Rambler 6.2 diesel Banks turbo...sold
1983 Dodge Ram D50 2.3 TD diesel for sale
gas stuff-Jeep, Lebaron, Porsche, Harley

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asavage
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#22

Post by asavage » 12 years ago

odie wrote:I'll probably go get duplicates of the worn out keys made at the local Wally World so the new keys are pre-worn to match the worn tumblers
Er, no. Not a chance.

odie
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#23

Post by odie » 12 years ago

why not? can't be that rare of a key blank.
1996 VW Passat B4V TDI diesel...main ride
1983 Maxima LD28..sold
1984 Isuzu P'up diesel 4x4..sold
1981 Rabbit diesel - sold
1984 MB 190 diesel - for sale...sold
1987 MB 300TDT diesel...sold
1983 Holiday Rambler 6.2 diesel Banks turbo...sold
1983 Dodge Ram D50 2.3 TD diesel for sale
gas stuff-Jeep, Lebaron, Porsche, Harley

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asavage
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#24

Post by asavage » 12 years ago

What I meant was that copying a worn key will not "match the wear in the tumblers".

The key blank is either Ilco X7 or X123, depending on the year; very common blanks in either case.

If your worn key works well but the key the dealer cut by code doesn't, they did a bad job of it (maybe used a nibbler rather than a cutter). I don't know what they did, but I work as a locksmith as my day job and code cut a lot of Nissan X123 replacement keys. Even with worn wafers, a correctly code-cut key is going to work better than a worn key or esp. a duplicate of a worn key, every time, if the code cutter equipment is calibrated etc. If the wafers are worn, a new key may not work perfectly -- some wafers will drag -- but it'll still work much better than a worn key.

I see a lot of code cutting and duplicating equipment that is out of calibration. On older equipment like ours (all non-electronic), we keep a close eye on calibration. I begin to feel the difference when ours drifts more than .003"; the feel of the cylinder when turning the key is different.

PM me your keycode (begins with an X or Y, followed by four digits) and I'll cut you a key and send it to you. If it doesn't work better than your worn one, you pay nothing, and you're out nothing. If it does work better than your worn out one, you pay $20 plus the postage.

Cutting a new key for an old Nissan or Subaru (same locks and blanks) is very rewarding. I must get one or two requests a week for new locks on these cars, and 90% of the time I cut them a new key and they're amazed at the difference -- no new lock required.

Also, use a squirt of Tri-Flow in each lock, every six months or so. No WD-40!
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.

goglio704
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Location: East Tennessee

#25

Post by goglio704 » 12 years ago

Al has cut keys for all three of my cars. They all work perfectly in all the locks on the car. I think that since the driver's door and ignition see more use than the others and the key still works perfectly in all, it really shows the value of a properly cut key.
Matt B.

83 Maxima Sedan, LD28, 5 speed, white, 130k miles. My original Maxima.
83 Maxima Sedan converted from gasser, LD28, 5 speed, 2 tone blue, 230k miles
82 Maxima Sedan, LD28, 3 speed auto, 2 tone Gray/Silver, 140k miles
81 810 Sedan, LD28, 3 speed auto, rust, rust, and more rust!

2005 Jeep Liberty CRD

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asavage
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Carimbo's '82 Sedan trunk lock

#26

Post by asavage » 11 years ago

Trunk lock repair project.

The Maxima changed keyways in mid-1982, going from the older X6/X7 to the newer X123.

Carimbo's '82 is apparently some hybrid. His truck lock was vandalized last year. I've been working on assembling a replacement from new parts.

ASP B-16-105 is the part No. for what is supposed to be the correct trunk lock for Carimbo's 1982 Sedan. However, it has both the wrong tailpiece and the wrong stop tab on the lock housing.
(click on any image for larger)
Image Image

Replacement tailpiece ASP P-16-367 is closer, but centre hole must be made larger (I used a Dremel) and slots slightly filed to fit end of lock core. Worse, a lot of clearancing work is needed to allow the tailpiece to fit over the housing tab and turn 90°.

Finally, the lock housing that worked is an ASP B-16-108 (complete lock, disassemble to use the housing) or B-16-205 (unassembled lock, no wafers). Applications for this lock housing seem to include 1989-94 240SX Coupe trunk (not Hatchback), 1987-90 Sentra Sedan trunk (not Coupe).
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At this point, the recipe for this particular trunk lock with the X123 keyway is to use:
  • Core ("plug") from B-16-105 lock assy., or perhaps plug-only B-16-305;
  • Housing from B-16-205 unassembled lock kit;
  • Tailpiece P-16-367 with modifications as above.
Carimbo is going to try to mount up the new lock when the weather clears a bit, and see if it works.
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.

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asavage
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#27

Post by asavage » 11 years ago

Carimbo reports that it fits and works well.

lockworksokc
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Re: Maxima locks, keys, and keycode

#28

Post by lockworksokc » 3 years ago

Covering the Nissan '80s style ignition and providing pics was extremely helpful. I found this after researching for this exact thing, but was having a hard time finding pictures of the outer housing and spring - and this post did not disappoint! Thanks guys! -Chris
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lockworksokc
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Re:

#29

Post by lockworksokc » 3 years ago

You can sometimes use a pointed chisel and catch one side of the head and walk it out that way. If you have room, you can also use a Dremel with a fine wheel and cut a slot into it -- you do end up cutting a slot in the screw's well walls, but that's OK.

I use both methods. The pin chisel method is slightly easier and less messy, but is not 100% effective.[/quote]


I have used an automatic center punch for years to remove ignitions that need to be repaired. Some grind the end to a chisel but I prefer to keep a sharp point so it digs in to the head of the bolt and is less likely to skip off. To re-install I use the dremel method to slot the head and a ratcheting 90 degree flat head to get the ignition mounted tight.

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