Parts Availability - G1 Maxima

[83_maxima]

In my initial attempt to troubleshoot the disconnected and bypassed OEM glow system in my Maxima, I have determined that the coolant temp sensor is bad - high resistance when coolant is VERY cold.

Second step was to try and source one of these sensors locally - no go. Not even shown in the catalog (only back to '82, and even then only for the gasser).

Several years ago I was able to find a new one for my gasser with no problem, now it seems to be a bit more difficult.

I'd prefer not to have to go to the dealer that quoted me $133 for a new CS valve for the gas car.

I know that Al has mentioned a "nismo parts" in the past, but I have not been able to find that exact web page.

Question is...where are people sourcing parts new in the aftermarket? This is a bosch sensor, so it shouldn't be too hard to find - one would think.

[asavage]

In my initial attempt to troubleshoot the disconnected and bypassed OEM glow system in my Maxima, I have determined that the coolant temp sensor is bad - high resistance when coolant is VERY cold.

I think that that's correct. See this post.

I'd prefer not to have to go to the dealer that quoted me $133 for a new CS valve for the gas car.

I know that Al has mentioned a "nismo parts" in the past, but I have not been able to find that exact web page.

That sensor is "about" $42, shipped. 11023-V0700.

However, I have a "loaner" sensor. I loaned it to Steve A. for a while, I could loan it to you. But dbl-check your resistance first.

This is a bosch sensor . . .

Are you sure?

[83_maxima]

I have a resistance of .98 ohms with the coolant temp lower than 50. Resistance should be higher than this then according to 82 FSM table. Guess I should print out the CORRECT table and add it in.

I will bookmark that page. Google got me ricer sites galore. Thank you again Al. I think I need to pull out my parts sheets and start searchin w/ #s and not keywords.

The sensor for the gasser was a Bosch. This one may not be, but it was an educated guess on my part based upon it's similarity to the gasser temp sensor.

[asavage]

The sensor for the gasser was a Bosch.

Aha!

See, the gasser version is a Bosch system entirely (from memory, K-Jetronic, but I may have that series wrong). The diesel's IP is licensed by Bosch, but the electrics are all Japanese I think. I will be surprised if you find that it's a Bosch sensor.

I have a resistance of .98 ohms with the coolant temp lower than 50. Resistance should be higher than this then according to 82 FSM table.

Yup, it should be higher. You have to measure it with it disconnected, of course (for those reading along).

Guess I should print out the CORRECT table and add it in.

Nah, just use a red pen and move the decimal point on those two entries.

Again, I have a loaner sensor if you want to go that route.

[83_maxima]

Again, I have a loaner sensor if you want to go that route.

I appreciate the offer, but cannot really test the system until it is completley repaired. The part is also not TOO expensive, so I may just go ahead and replace it.

I found all of the old connections, and they cut the dropping resistor wires at the loom, so I need to repair those.

This system appears to be pretty simple to troubleshoot. It makes me wonder what was going on that made an aftermarket relay and a complete bypass of the system the only option.

[goglio704]

I don't know about the 81, but I have a theory about the 83 models at least. The original equipment plugs are a somewhat self regulating design. They initially have very low resistance and a high current draw. As they heat the resistance goes up and the current goes down. This makes them very fast. If they are replaced with a cheap plug which lacks the self regulation, the glow plug contols won't put full voltage to the plugs for long enough to get them hot and the stage is set for harness hacking. The other thing that would provoke a gp mod would be the hard starting when half warm. I made a simple mod for that myself but kept the bulk of the automated system.

[asavage]

Surprisingly, I've only had hard warm starting once in the last week (with the stock system). But I'm careful to get it fully warmed before shutdown, and my longest off period before restart was 35 minutes.

[glenlloyd]

(snip) I found all of the old connections, and they cut the dropping resistor wires at the loom, so I need to repair those.

Ben, if you can I would solder the connections and cover them with heatshrink tubing.

This system appears to be pretty simple to troubleshoot. It makes me wonder what was going on that made an aftermarket relay and a complete bypass of the system the only option.

Many of these have been bypassed, as we've seen by the presence of a push-button on the dash. I think the biggest problems are those that Al has noted in the 1983 Maxi thread (users rigs forum) where the wiring is most vulnerable along the frame rail, especially since this part of the harness is in the vacinity of the battery.

In all my digging I have not been able to find an alternative supplier / maker for this coolant sensor.

steve a

[asavage]

I'd like someone to play with aftermarket GP systems, like the Fourth-Gen that Dave S. bought. I'd want someone else to pioneer it though.

[83_maxima]

I re-instated the factory auto glow system today.

Heat shrink and solder at all connections, except I added spade connectors at the dropping resistor to make it reversible to keep the "doorbell" until I get the auto glow working.

Everything was there, so I simply reconnected it all and turned the car on...light came on, went out in about 3 seconds (car was cold, about 60 outside). Voltage at relay 1 only lasted a few seconds longer than the light. Car would not start (surprise, surprise). I reconnected the doorbell and am in the process of figuring out what the next step is.

The coolant temp sensor appears to be bad - it may be the cause.

Like Matt said, getting the GPC to keep the plugs lit for long enough to start the car appears to be our problem without looking any further.

Any other suggestions given these developments?

[asavage]

Try unplugging the temp sensor and repeating your test. Wait light should come on for a looooong time. If not, the sensor isn't your only problem.

[83_maxima]

Try unplugging the temp sensor and repeating your test. Wait light should come on for a looooong time. If not, the sensor isn't your only problem.

Temp sensor connected: light on 4 seconds

Temp sensor disconnected: light on 10 seconds

[glenlloyd]

Temp sensor connected: light on 4 seconds

Temp sensor disconnected: light on 10 seconds

Similar symptoms to mine. Even at 10 seconds it's not long enough, especially for the "slow" system, which we share even though mine is a 1982.

I haven't had any time to diagnose the problem, especially with the weather we've had recently here.

steve a

[asavage]

Temp sensor connected: light on 4 seconds

Temp sensor disconnected: light on 10 seconds

That's pretty close to my '82's behaviour.

I don't crank at the light going out, I wait for the GP relay to drop out, then crank.

[glenlloyd]

Al, is your '82 pre or post December '82 production?

steve a