2+2 flywheel in a 240ZD...will I snap my crank in half?

#16

samee says it's 35 lbs, which isn't as heavy as, say, a Model A flywheel or the monster on my IH 6.9l, but for the diameter it is, it looks pretty thick, yes.

If I had air where that engine is, I might pull it off and weigh it. But I don't, and it's down on the floor where it's hard for me to work.

#17

Success! I found a complete maxima sedan diesel in Florida; been siting since 1995! Got the flywheel, alternator and fuel filter setup for 175 bucks, pulled!~

As for breaking a crank in half, I've discovered that American cranks of the era were of cheap cast material, and externally balanced via flywheel and harmonic balancer, and so could break if "unbalanced" with other than original factory parts. Nissan has used super high quality forged, internally balanced cranks since the Z's inception in 1969, thus the L-series engine's ability to last beyond 200,000 miles with no rebuild. The ensuing American car rebuild paranoia leaked over into the Nissan world. I also read that engine rebuilders tend to laugh when a L-series customer asks for a crank balance, or any other such work on their connecting rods. Even the cylinder sleeves have been known to retain some of their original crosshatching when opened up 25 years later, requiring only a simple honing job rather than being bored out.

Nissan be da' pimp-shizzle, mon, lord ah' mercy!

-samee-

#18

Could you share contact info for the seller you dealt with or invite them to visit here? Presumably, there is more of the car to sell, and there are people here to buy.

Thanks.

#19

The whole car is located at A1A Auto Parts, in Lakeland, FL: 1-800-922-9676. These guys are very cool.

The transmission came from Allen's Used Auto Parts, in Tampa, FL: 1-866-626-6121 These guys are assholes, but I saw an un LD28 complete, sitting in their pulled parts warehouse, on my way out from inspecting the tranny I ended up buying.

All Pro Used Auto Parts, in Auburndale, FL, has an LD28 with a cracked valve cover and a cracked IP timing belt cover flange. They are cool, and would probably sell it very cheap: 1-888-431-7278

-samee-

#20

Thank you for the contact info. I appreciate it.

#21

240ZD wrote:I live in Portland, but drove down to Florida to visit friends and complete this engine project . . .

I'm confused: is the car project here, or there? I guess I should ask: you live in PDX but are currently in FL?

What I need is an alternator and a flywheel . . .

I missed the alternator part.

I have one spare, tested OK, LD28 alternator that I keep as a backup for the two Wagons, and I have one core with a broken housing from the '83 Wagon:

]
which is good for parts, I assume; it looks OK other than the broken housing, and the Alternator Warning light wasn't on.

Do you need a complete alternator (ie you don't have one) or do you need parts to repair yours? It can be repaired, the LR160 seems very similar to the SD's LR150.

Plenty of diesel-version LR160s listed at car-part.com, starting at $25. "Rebuilt" ones (w/o vac. pump) come up on eBay for $60-90 fairly often.

#22

Hi Samee, welcome to the forum! Your car is gotta be an exciting project to work on and being as light as it is I'm sure it will fly once you've turboed the LD28. I think a 5-speed is the way to go and it will be cool for a race car feel. I've always thought that it would be awesome to drive a 240, 260, or 280 with a turbo intercooled LD28. I'm real curious as to what the power level would be after doing all that and then possibly delivering a little more fuel to add to the extra air. When you get deeper into the project let us know what that LD28 is making when you dyno it after the turbo has been added. Glad to have you here and can't wait to see pictures of your car.

Salvy

P.S.- If you are still interested I'm kinda looking to get a power steering pump for my diesel Maxima and if you're willing to part with it let me know. Or if not Al do you know where I could buy a good, remanufactured unit? Can you buy one from Napa? Thanks.

#23

TheDieseliminator wrote: Al do you know where I could buy a good, remanufactured unit?

Third time in this thread: car-part.com, there are forty diesel Atsugi PS pumps listed, starting at $20.

Can you buy one from Napa?

Yes, NAPA NSP215601, $154 (w/o reservoir)

Maybe also available from Nissan:
49110-W1705, $362 + 44 shipping

To reiterate: there are two PS pumps used on the L24e (GM/Saginaw & Atsugi) and one on the LD28 (Atsugi, but a completely different one than the one used on the gasser). The diesel one is all by itself.

#24

I've come to the final big ugly hurdle in my engine project: The big bulbous front end of the diesel oil pan will not clear the front crossmember/steering rack of my 240Z - not even close, HA! I think the sump would just about hit the crossmember even if there was no oil pan bolted to the engine. All the info I've seen on the Z/LD28 swap, and it was always, "Fits like a glove! SO much easier than even hooking up a new gas engine!"

Hogwash. Malarkey! Preposterous! Although it's really not all that bad either, but that's ONLY because I have a friend in the "tedious precision welding and metalworking" business who's willing to bail me out of oil pan purgatory.

It appears I'll have to extend the oil sump tube about 7 inches horizontally along the block toward the rear of the engine, using a 280ZX oil pan, with its flat front and fat ass. But, I'll also have to weld in a semi-tubular "channel" along the oil pan to accommodate the extended sump tube along the low profile front portion of the Z oil pan.

I wonder if the extra tube length will make it take a significantly longer time for oil pressure to rise during starts...and if the FrankenTube thing will vibrate loose, haaaaaaaa!

If anyone has any information about dealing with this problem, it would be much appreciated.

-samee-

#25

Now you mention it, I see the problem. Never thought of it, and like you all I've heard is "bolt in" for this.

Have you investigated using the L24/26/28 pan and pickup? I would definitely assume that to be a bolt-on, as they use the same oil pump (TTBOMK).

#26

240ZD wrote:I've come to the final big ugly hurdle in my engine project: The big bulbous front end of the diesel oil pan will not clear the front crossmember/steering rack of my 240Z - not even close, HA! I think the sump would just about hit the crossmember even if there was no oil pan bolted to the engine. All the info I've seen on the Z/LD28 swap, and it was always, "Fits like a glove! SO much easier than even hooking up a new gas engine!"

Hogwash. Malarkey! Preposterous! Although it's really not all that bad either, but that's ONLY because I have a friend in the "tedious precision welding and metalworking" business who's willing to bail me out of oil pan purgatory.

It appears I'll have to extend the oil sump tube about 7 inches horizontally along the block toward the rear of the engine, using a 280ZX oil pan, with its flat front and fat ass. But, I'll also have to weld in a semi-tubular "channel" along the oil pan to accommodate the extended sump tube along the low profile front portion of the Z oil pan.

I wonder if the extra tube length will make it take a significantly longer time for oil pressure to rise during starts...and if the FrankenTube thing will vibrate loose, haaaaaaaa!

If anyone has any information about dealing with this problem, it would be much appreciated.

-samee-

Use the z or zx pan which ever will fit, but first you need to drill and tap the other set of bosses on the engine block and plug the old ones.

#27

SO...

I need to get a big fat drill bit and drill into the "dead-end" oil passageway located in the middle of the diesel block, where the stock location is on the ZX block? Until I get to a/the main oil pickup gallery?

Then tap two adjacent holes for the pickup tube, and make a block-off plate for the old front location?

At least the ZX oil pan will fit. Hey, I'm all about drilling and tapping rather than welding, but this is a one-flaw-and-I'm-screwed kinda job.

-samee-

#28

240ZD wrote:this is a one-flaw-and-I'm-screwed kinda job.

A lot of jobs are like that. I don't much care for that kind of work upside-down, but it's not all that difficult, if you do two things:

Use good-quality, sharp tools (bits, taps);
Be patient and do the layout right the first time.

I'd have no reticence at all about doing that, though I'd much rather do vertical drilling from above than underneath, but with a sharp bit and careful layout, as long as you drill straight it's not a hard job.

I like my new transfer punch set, it makes transferring the center punch correctly a snap. You can buy one (a set) for under $30 pretty easily. Or you can try to center punch by eye, and file the pickup's mounting flange holes to fit

Back to work . . .

#29

Absolutely not

#30

Absolutely not.

After patient drilling through the middle boss with a $20 drill bit, I found that the distant oil sump gallery on the LD28 is of solid cast iron, like the rest of the block. The oil pickup gallery does not extend to the middle pickup tube location, as it does on the gas engine, although at first it seemed to be the obvious answer to my dilemma.

Apparently I'll have to modify both the oil pan AND the sump tube to be compatible with the 240Z chassis/crossmember.

A huge unforseen pain in the ass for sure, yet a small price to pay to be pimpin' a phat 240Z turbo diesel.

This is not a direct bolt in. Even the exhaust flange, while deceptively "identical" to the gas engine's manifold, will not fit the diesel manifold without modification.

Onward through the fog.

-samee-

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2+2 flywheel in a 240ZD...will I snap my crank in half?

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