I think the plastic grommet yellows and hardens over time, causing it to not seal well. Can't think of where to start looking for a fresh replacement, sorry.
I have the same problem on my DD wagon. Same as Al, I'll clean it up and after a few hundred miles of driving it's all black again.
The new parts rig however, has a clean valve cover - and nobody has been under that hood cleaning anything. However, the "UFO-shaped" device that connects to the hose is COVERED in thick, black, oily stuff.
So is the oil coming through the valve and down into the VC, or is it coming up and out of the VC and leaking past the clamp? Could the valve be clogged on the Parts Bin?
This touches on something I meant to ask about before. I've heard mention of powder coating a VC, but what about the nipple and the interior baffles which seem to be sealed or retained with the same brown sealer?
Matt B.
83 Maxima Sedan, LD28, 5 speed, white, 130k miles. My original Maxima.
83 Maxima Sedan converted from gasser, LD28, 5 speed, 2 tone blue, 230k miles 82 Maxima Sedan, LD28, 3 speed auto, 2 tone Gray/Silver, 140k miles
81 810 Sedan, LD28, 3 speed auto, rust, rust, and more rust!
Power-coating is not a dip process, the powder is only applied pretty much where you direct it. No powder on the inside, nor within the baffles.
I have a couple Nissan VCs, one Ford trans pan, and a couple LD28 IP belt covers that I'm going to send off to be powder-coated, as soon as I get comfortable about this oil leakage area issue on the LD VC.
I was thinking about the effects of the heat needed to set up the powder coat. I thought that was a fairly high temp process?
Matt B.
83 Maxima Sedan, LD28, 5 speed, white, 130k miles. My original Maxima.
83 Maxima Sedan converted from gasser, LD28, 5 speed, 2 tone blue, 230k miles 82 Maxima Sedan, LD28, 3 speed auto, 2 tone Gray/Silver, 140k miles
81 810 Sedan, LD28, 3 speed auto, rust, rust, and more rust!
What I'm reading is cure temperature of up to ~410°F for a duration of 10-20 minutes. I do not know if that is within the acceptable range for the goo Nissan used to seal those parts.
oh, you know what i did to fix that. I took a little bit of threadlocker red, applied a large glob to the threads and threaded it in. Holds tight as all can be, but its only been a year or two. I would reccomend doing it with the VC off the motor, in case you screw up and drop some inside the crankcase. I dont think it would be that bad if some got in, but I did it with it off the motor and i didnt notice any threadlocker spilling out the other side, but it sucks having a simple fix turn into a major mess.
Also I would vote down on the powdercoating of the VC because that brown goo dosent really look all that good, except that the brown goo seems to hold up better when its bathed in oil than out in the elements. It dosent seem like its a high temp anything, and its 20 something years old. I was actually gonna powdercoat the VC to prevent the corrosion from coming back, but it didnt fit in the oven, so I gave up. Also the oil would stink something fierce when it gets hot. I wound up spraying mine with a high temp clear rattle can, results are acceptable to me.
the fitting is has a die cast tappered thread.
some times they snap off.
ive often had to strip out the oil seporator.some are no serviceable.
common for small cars to blow for a short period oil smoke after driving some distance.
australia/japanese models dont normally have the valve in the pipe.i think a catch tank with vapour return into the manifold would make more sence.like the SD25.SR20
i dont know why you would need to restrict the blow by these valves are common on light trucks.
WCJR31 Skyline.3.0 manual.wagon
R31 SKYLINE/Passage GT/PINTARA
LPG Ford Falcon 99-06 93 Disco
Local Shire Southern Zone Mechanic.
Did you ever resolve this leakage? Will the elbow unscrew from the top and allow re-seating w/ (some kind of) new goo? That sounds like what Kassim did. Or is it just glued into a hole in the cover? Kinda annoying. Also, the PVC valve thingy at the other end of that hose looks like it seeps pretty good too. Anybody know which end or seam on that thing is the major culprit? I'll get onto this one of these days and post what I do.