IP shaft seal replacement procedure?

[odie]

Anyone done a write up or picture tutorial of the IP shaft seal replacement? I've found bits and pieces of info but scattered around as "side info" to other topics.

I assume once you break down the engine to the point on belt replacement...you stop and then do the seal before installing the new belt.

I'm assuming you at this point remove the IP belt pulley. Is it simply removing the bolt/nut on the pulley and sliding it off?

Is the IP shaft seal immediatly under the pulley? how it it removed? Kinda sounds like you gotta dig or pry it out? Screw driver? Seal puller? Pliers?


My IP has started leaking again. It quit leaking several tanks after I started using 50/50 WVO blends. I ran outta oil and been running straight diesel the last few tanks and the leak has now returned.

[asavage]

Anyone done a write up or picture tutorial of the IP shaft seal replacement? I've found bits and pieces of info but scattered around as "side info" to other topics.

I have the pics, but haven't written it up yet. It, and the IP belt replacement, are on my to-do list, but not at the top. It's about 1/3 typed at this point (it's fully written longhand).

I assume once you break down the engine to the point on belt replacement...you stop and then do the seal before installing the new belt.

Yes.

I'm assuming you at this point remove the IP belt pulley. Is it simply removing the bolt/nut on the pulley and sliding it off?

No. See pictures in this post. Sprocket is tapered shaft mounted, tightly.

Is the IP shaft seal immediatly under the pulley? how it it removed? Kinda sounds like you gotta dig or pry it out? Screw driver? Seal puller? Pliers?

This has all been discussed before.

[goglio704]

When I replaced my shaft seal, this is how I did it.

I did all the tear down needed to remove the injection pump drive belt. (Including removal of the radiator)

I removed the nut and washer which retain the injection pump pulley, and then removed the pulley with a small three jaw puller.

After center punching the seal, I used a 3/8" right angle Milwaukee drill to drill a very small (1/16" or less) hole in the face of the seal. I threaded a #6 sheet metal screw into the hole, and on the third try, I got the seal to come out by pulling on the screw with pliers. If I were to do it again, I'd use an even smaller sheet metal screw. A #4 if I could find it. With a #6 I found that the hole placement was crucial. If I got the hole too close to the inner edge of the seal, the metal would crack or tear away when I tried to pull the seal. That is why it took 3 attempts, I had to drill a new hole after each failed attempt.

I suspect a sharp awl or similar tool could be used to make the hole for the screw instead of drilling. The seal can't be driven much, if any, deeper than it already sits, and the steel in the seal is fairly thin and soft.

Once the old seal was out, I cleaned the recess, lubed the new seal, and drove it in with hammer using a socket that came close to the seal's outer diameter as a driver.

[odie]

what about using 2 screws opposite sides? that way you can pull the seal straight out and not just on one side? Would that make it easier? By pulling the seal from one side it actually tightens up a little as it's trying to come out. Or am I picturing this wrong?

[odie]

got the timing belt replaced this weekend. Took about 3-4 hours total.

The IP shaft had zero evidence of leaking. No freash wet spots under the shaft or on the bottom inside of the cover.

Just some slightly moist greasy build up on the inside bottom lip from 20+ years of dust, dirt, grime, etc. The kinda gjunk that never dries since it holds moisture.

not any "drip trails" or anything looking like the IP shaft seal leaking. So I did not mess with it.

Also , now that I got a good look at the IP and front area, a IP shaft drip would flow straight down to the bottom of the cover/shield and drip out the bottom.

My leak is coming from somewhere higher up than the IP shaft. Dripping fuel does not drip up.


BTW, the timing belt was original Nissan. Still looked pretty good and solid after 20+ years. But only 90,000 miles. Still, once you are in there just replace anyway.

Who designed the belt pulleys???? You can't get the PS belt on past the fan pulleys. I had to place the belt and then mount the fan & pulley. And the Alt belt was almost as bad. Or do I have a pulley backwards?

[asavage]

I've mentioned many, many times (and is pointed out in the FSM), you can only replace the PS belt by removing the WP sheave. It's even in the FAQ.

Bummer about the leak. If it's higher up than the shaft seal, next most likely is the governor cover (top cover). It uses a molded-o-ring kind of seal. Common leak point. As is the accel shaft seal, and the distributor housing o-ring at the back.

[odie]

guess I overlooked the FSM and FAQ I just figured belt replacement would be straight forward. Well at least I feel better knowing that I indeed did NOT install the pulleys backwards.

How accessible is that govenor cover? Is that seal replaceable? Or even available? or is it a generic o-ring or a flat gasket?

[asavage]

How accessible is that govenor cover? Is that seal replaceable? Or even available? or is it a generic o-ring or a flat gasket?

The cover "gasket" is roughly rectangular. It's the next-highest bit of Red in the drawing below.

(click on image for larger)



See this thread for a reseal kit's contents and part No.