Hello Everyone (new owner of an 82 D Maxima Sedan)

General information about the first-generation Nissan Maxima in the US. What was the Datsun 810 became the luxury leader Maxima in the US in 1981.

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mrtaquito85
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Joined: 12 years ago

Hello Everyone (new owner of an 82 D Maxima Sedan)

#1

Post by mrtaquito85 » 12 years ago

aa
Last edited by mrtaquito85 7 years ago, edited 1 time in total.

rlaggren
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Location: San Francisco

#2

Post by rlaggren » 12 years ago

Welcome.

Before all the smarter guys jump in I'll suggest you make sure about the belt problem before you tear into it. Never hurts to renew the timing belt... But you'd be in the dumps if you tore it apart, put it together perfect and it still wouldn't work cuz something else was really the trouble - you'd sit there wondering what you screwed up. Easier to check stuff before you take it apart.

- glow plug system
- air in fuel line
- power lead to the IP
- compression, if you really want to get thorough about things.

The LD28 faq has most of this and others here can give better detail than I.


Cheers, Rufus
82 Maxima wagon

mrtaquito85
Posts: 17
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Update Feb 28, 2008

#3

Post by mrtaquito85 » 12 years ago

aa
Last edited by mrtaquito85 7 years ago, edited 1 time in total.

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kassim503
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Location: Stony Brook, NY

#4

Post by kassim503 » 12 years ago

My uncle was able to locate one but its made of Cast Iron and not of Aluminum like the original one. Is it okay for me to put the Cast Iron outlet, or must I look for an aluminum?
It should be just fine. I would definitely check out the water pump and radiator for disintegration though, that is alot of corrosion, the coolant was probably never changed. I see in your pic you removed the radiator, I would definitley backwash the radiator and heater core to help remove any fragments, and a block flush would be recommended while the system is open. The block drain is a 17MM bolt on the back drivers side of the motor, right behind the flange for the exhaust manifold.

The OEM bolts are fine for this application, they are not torqued tight mabye 20 ft/lbs tops. Id just reuse them if the threads arent damaged.

Not sure if the crank pulley needs a puller, From pictures it dosent appear it is tapered in. Dont take my word for it and start hittin it with a mallet though.

I noticed that your missing the rear pass. side marker, I remember having a extra one, it can be had for mailing it over if I can find it.
'83 maxima sedan, l24e, a/t, black

227K SOLD 6/7/2012

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asavage
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Re: Update Feb 28, 2008

#5

Post by asavage » 12 years ago

mrtaquito85 wrote:I removed all 6 hex bolts that are around the Crankshaft pulley, but when I try to remove the center bolt it just turns the whole engine (I know this 'cause I can see the camshaft moving around because I removed the Oil cap). So, my question is, does it need to be removed . . .
No, the crank bolt does not need to be removed, in order to replace the IP belt. It does need to be removed if you want to replace the crankshaft front seal. You may or may not need to do that.

The damper is a reasonably tight tolerance as it fits to the hub/sprocket behind it. With the six 8mm x 1.0 bolts out, use your favourite light lubricant in all six holes, and tap around the center area (just outside of the six bolts area) with a soft-faced hammer, whilst pulling (with a hand) on the outside rim, switching where you pull (by hand) every few blows. Every one I've taken off will eventually yield to this light touch. You cannot pry on the damper because TTBOMK there is no good place to pry against. There are also no tapped holes for a puller, and you cannot pull on the outside rim. See pics in the Damper thread in the LD28 forum.
Is it okay for me to put the Cast Iron outlet, or must I look for an aluminum?
The steel one is OK. You must run a coolant that has corrosion inhibitors, of course (every commercial coolant does), not just plain water.
. . . the 6 bolts with the hex heads were a pain in the butt to remove. My question is, Can I replace them with regular head bolts? They're M8 x 1.0 16mm. My uncle can get me some that are 8.8 grade, but is that strong enough? or should I stick to the original hex head ones?
Definitely cannot replace with HHCS nor with Class 8.8. You must stick with the OEM-style SHCS and hardness class. OEM is probably 10.9 or 12.9. I have found aftermarket replacements in 12.9 (see this post for details).

The six SHCS need to be tight, and I advise cleaning the threads with an aerosol cleaner and compressed air, just prior to inserting the bolts, then a dab of LockTite blue on each. Use a good[/i] hex driver and again, they should be tight. FSM says 20 ft/lbs, but as you found taking them out, they have a higher break-away torque than that, quite a bit more. LockTite is a good idea. I've had them come out (on other diesels I've owned, not on the LD28). They are Class 12.9 for a reason.

If you haven't got a Factory Service Manual for your '82 yet, get one. It's absolutely necessary. Links to canned eBay search in The FAQ. If you need one in a hurry, I always have spares, about $20 + shipping (usually about $5). Lots of good info in that FAQ (I wrote most of it, mostly in 2006).

I bought my '82 Wagon from the original owner's family with 86k on it, in 1996. The IP belt stripped in my driveway less than 1000 miles later :)

Also, you will probably be able to re-use your IP belt's tensioner assy (with only 87k miles) but if you find it makes any noise at all, or is loose, I rebuild them -- see this thread for details. They are currently $160 + core.
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.

Carimbo
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Re: Update Feb 28, 2008

#6

Post by Carimbo » 12 years ago

mrtaquito85 wrote:So, I started on my journey today. I started by trying to change out the IP belt, but I came to a small bump that hopefully one of you could probably help me out here. I removed all 6 hex bolts that are around the Crankshaft pulley, but when I try to remove the center bolt it just turns the whole engine (I know this 'cause I can see the camshaft moving around because I removed the Oil cap). So, my question is, does it need to be removed, or can I use some type of puller to remove the pulley.
The big center nut (27mm?) that holds the hub onto the crank does not need to be removed to remove the crank damper. The six 6mm socket head bolts are what holds it on. Now you need to carefully walk the crank damper off the hub, a little at a time, each side. Do not pry on the sheaves themselves, they are not strong enough for that. Work the inner part, where it mates to the hub. I carefully used a prybar, there was good access from the alternator side. Pried to move the damper off a few mm, then used a ratchet & socket on that large center crank nut to turn the crank 180*, then pried that side, repeat.

After you remove the crank damper you should be able to remove the IP belt cover and replace the belt w/o removing the crankshaft hub.
mrtaquito85 wrote:Is it okay for me to put the Cast Iron outlet, or must I look for an aluminum?
I don't know. If it was that corroded you might want to take a look at the waterpump vanes and housing.
mrtaquito85 wrote:Going back to the whole crankshaft pulley, the 6 bolts with the hex heads were a pain in the butt to remove.
What was the problem? Mine were easy, I was glad they were socket heads because that made it less apt to strip the head by incorrect angle of the wrench.

Look at these threads, then ask for more help if something not described there:

http://nissandiesel.dyndns.org/viewtopic.php?t=1681

http://nissandiesel.dyndns.org/viewtopic.php?t=1485

http://nissandiesel.dyndns.org/viewtopic.php?t=1281

http://nissandiesel.dyndns.org/viewtopic.php?t=1700
mrtaquito85 wrote:Here are some pics of the Maxima
Looks like a very nice car. Seems a shame to take the engine out of it.

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asavage
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#7

Post by asavage » 12 years ago

kassim503 wrote:The block drain is a 17MM bolt on the back drivers side of the motor, right behind the flange for the exhaust manifold.
On the LD28, the block drain is 22mm (7/8") (six-point socket only). See this thread for details & picture.
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.

mrtaquito85
Posts: 17
Joined: 12 years ago

#8

Post by mrtaquito85 » 12 years ago

aa
Last edited by mrtaquito85 7 years ago, edited 1 time in total.

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kassim503
Posts: 1027
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Location: Stony Brook, NY

#9

Post by kassim503 » 12 years ago

asavage wrote: On the LD28, the block drain is 22mm (7/8") (six-point socket only). See this thread for details & picture.
Oh, mabye the gasser has a 7/8th too, I havnt touched that bolt for a while.
Thanks for the offer, but I'm not going to keep the car. Engine is eventually going to go into a 240z.
Would you be willing to mail me a couple of its and bits on the car? I need a couple of small things, like switches n stuff.
'83 maxima sedan, l24e, a/t, black

227K SOLD 6/7/2012

mrtaquito85
Posts: 17
Joined: 12 years ago

#10

Post by mrtaquito85 » 12 years ago

aa
Last edited by mrtaquito85 7 years ago, edited 1 time in total.

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kassim503
Posts: 1027
Joined: 14 years ago
Location: Stony Brook, NY

#11

Post by kassim503 » 12 years ago

mrtaquito85 wrote: Yes and no. I currently have a potential buyer for the complete car (minus motor + trans), if the deal does not go through, then I will start the parting out process. Apparently diesel powered vehicles do not require a smog inspections in California (I did not know this), so he's thinking of putting an RB25DET or RB26DETT in there.
oh ok, hope the car sells, its certainly better than getting parted out.
'83 maxima sedan, l24e, a/t, black

227K SOLD 6/7/2012

mrtaquito85
Posts: 17
Joined: 12 years ago

#12

Post by mrtaquito85 » 12 years ago

aa
Last edited by mrtaquito85 7 years ago, edited 1 time in total.

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kassim503
Posts: 1027
Joined: 14 years ago
Location: Stony Brook, NY

#13

Post by kassim503 » 12 years ago

Both lobes should be pointing somewhat upwards, or not making contact with the valves, signifying the #1 piston is on the compression stroke

Did you turn the motor so the intake lobe (the 2nd one down the line) was pointing straight up and used that as TDC?
'83 maxima sedan, l24e, a/t, black

227K SOLD 6/7/2012

User avatar
asavage
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#14

Post by asavage » 12 years ago

mrtaquito85 wrote: . . . when I was installing the IP Belt, on this 1st picture here:

http://asavage.dyndns.org/ftp/Nissan/LD ... /EF-3b.jpg

Where you are supposed to be looking at the camshaft lobe. When I set the timing mark on the crank, I set it when the lobe was completely pointing up. Is this correct? or should it be offset a bit to the left or right
While I don't know the answer, it doesn't matter.

Image

As long as you can see the lobe anywhere above horizontal (9 o'clock to 3 o'clock) and the mark on the crank sprocket hub is lined up, the crank is on the correct stroke. IOW, you have a one out of two chance of getting it right if you never looked at the cam lobe at all.
So, I got the IP Belt installed this afternoon. Re-Connected everything, and the car just cranks and cranks and cranks.
While nearly everybody who has a no-start situation after changing the IP belt has got the belt mis-timed, have you put a 12v lamp on No. 1 glow plug and watched it while turning the key to ON? A voltmeter works too, but you really want a nice, bright light (nearly 12v) when the GPs are energized. There are three places that break down in the GP feed system -- that's why I bought my last one for $50, the shop couldn't figure out how to start it without using ether (a big no-no if GPs are involved). It was a bad connector at the battery area.

But you really should re-check those IP belt marks.

Please see this post for an explanation of why you won't want to use that page from the generic LD2x manual, but instead the page from the specific Maxima FSM.

Also, see my white-dots on the IP sprocket in this post, which will probably be the most helpful to you.
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.

mrtaquito85
Posts: 17
Joined: 12 years ago

#15

Post by mrtaquito85 » 12 years ago

aa
Last edited by mrtaquito85 7 years ago, edited 1 time in total.

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