Matt's (goglio704) 82 sedan

[goglio704]

Got it. 4 piston cycles are accomplished in 2 revolutions of the crank. A picture really is worth a thousand words. I was focused on the wrong side of the question. BTW, nice animation. I'd have got it just from the "no" but thank you for the extra effort. I guess this concludes internal combustion 101.

P.S. I didn't know that a .gif file was or could be animated. I quoted your post to see what the guts looked like. I was expecting something more elaborate. Maybe the elaborate part is on the host site...

[asavage]

TTBOMK, only the GIF format can contain multiple frames in such a manner that a viewer can animate them. However, GIF has no compression and is limited to 256 colors, so you can only use it for certain things, or small things.

[goglio704]

I removed (cut) the power steering belt and have been driving the 82 today. Took some getting used to - both of the others being manual transmissions. The transmission shifts firmly and seems pretty healthy. I do notice that when I decelerate, it doesn't come out of lockup easily. Can't tell you how many times I went for a clutch that wasn't there. It was almost the same sensation as forgetting to put the clutch in when decelerating to a stop. It wasn't extreme but it was there. Is this normal for this trans?

I only have the alternator belt installed at this point. No fan or fan shroud. Either the water pump or alternator is noisy. I'll have to track that down.

The warning lights on the dash come and go, but the alternator is putting out at least 13 volts every time I check it (including when the light is on.) I know there are some posts about the warning lights, I'll read up on it. I've seen the warning lights light up like this on the White car, but it wasn't producing charging voltage. This is different.

My White car smokes a little under heavy acceleration, the Blue car even more so, but this one is truly something. I could hire out to kill mosquitoes. If you give it too much throttle, you'll know it if you check the rearview. I have heard comments about the LD28 being a smoker, but wow. Would love to do comparative timing measurements. Why are the automatics timed differently anyway?

[asavage]

For the '82, the TC does not unlock when you back off the accel, it's completely speed-based, unlike gassers I've driven.

On my '82, the TC locks at 38, unlocks at about 36. Don't know about the '83, but I do know it's different (I just don't know the numbers).

I am beginning to get the dash lights flash (about five of them) on and off evey once in a while, for the last week. Only when the battery is fully charged and I have practically nothing on. If even the radio + heater blower is on, it's fine, but when I pull in the driveway and cut the heater blower and headlights, the dash lights will blink sometimes, about 80-160 Hz. Turn any accessory back on, it stops immediately. No idea how I'll diagnose this one off the top of my head . . . The obvious wiring looks good. The brushes were last changed 60k ago, so I guess I should do a brush inspection first, since it's easy.

[goglio704]

The warning lights on the dash come and go, but the alternator is putting out at least 13 volts every time I check it (including when the light is on.) I know there are some posts about the warning lights, I'll read up on it. I've seen the warning lights light up like this on the White car, but it wasn't producing charging voltage. This is different.

My White car smokes a little under heavy acceleration, the Blue car even more so, but this one is truly something. I could hire out to kill mosquitoes. If you give it too much throttle, you'll know it if you check the rearview. I have heard comments about the LD28 being a smoker, but wow. Would love to do comparative timing measurements. Why are the automatics timed differently anyway?

The spare alternator and vac pump which came with the car fixed the warning lights, and the smoke situation is somewhat better after driving the car more.

The pressure and return lines for the vac pump oil are NLA from Nissan according to Nismoparts.com. The return line on this car could really stand replacing. It appears to be 12mm hose. I can't find 12mm hose, and I bet 1/2" will be too sloppy.

The fitting on the Atsugi PS pump is 3/8 JIS. The fitting I bought screws on perfectly. I'll post something more about this when I get all the details worked out. The steel tube is not 3/8" and I'm having difficulty locating a swedge type fitting to fit 10mm steel tube. 10mm tube to NPT is no problem, but that is one more joint in the system.

Al, did you cut off the portion of the steel tube where the original hose was crimped on or did you cut the crimped band and keep that portion of tube?

Later edit: The return line is 10mm, but the pressure line is 8mm. That is good because 5/16" fittings should work.

[asavage]

The pressure and return lines for the vac pump oil are NLA from Nissan according to Nismoparts.com. The return line on this car could really stand replacing. It appears to be 12mm hose. I can't find 12mm hose, and I bet 1/2" will be too sloppy.

I think I bought (from Nissan) and replaced the vac pump return line on my '82 Wagon in about 1998 I think that the cloth-braided-exteriour low-pressure hose for European vehicles can be purchased in 12mm ID. Think VW repair, that's where I've seen it. The image I have in mind is old Bug PCV hose, in bulk on a spool.

The fitting on the Atsugi PS pump is 3/8 JIS. The fitting I bought screws on perfectly.

It's good news that you have a source for it, and that it's correct.

The steel tube is not 3/8" and I'm having difficulty locating a swedge type fitting to fit 10mm steel tube. 10mm tube to NPT is no problem, but that is one more joint in the system.

Al, did you cut off the portion of the steel tube where the original hose was crimped on or did you cut the crimped band and keep that portion of tube?

I think I used a tubing cutter on the exposed tube. I don't remember cutting away the crimp, but it's been a while

I just got out my mirror-on-a-stick and flashlight, and looked at the joint again. It *looks* like a compression fitting with maybe 1/4" NPTF on one end, into which the hose's end is fitted.

[goglio704]

I've had the adapter to fit the Atsugi pump for some time now, but I've not really worked on the replacement power steering hose project for a while until this week. I wasn't paying attention when I measured the steel lines originally. As it turns out, the high pressure line is 8mm. That is a good thing because it let me transition from the 3/8" power steering hose to 5/16" steel tube in one fitting. 5/16" equates to approximately 7.9mm and the 5/16" fitting fit just fine. I'll flesh this out with details later, but the generalities of this are as follows:

Adapter from female 3/8 JIS female to male JIC (#6 I think)
Female JIC fitting for 3/8" power steering hose
2' of Gates 3/8" double braid power steering hose intended for pressure side use
Ferrule type compression fitting for 5/16" steel tube and 3/8" power steering hose

[asavage]

I was at the Lakewood JY today; the '81 diesel Sedan they have there looks like it will be crushed next week or the week after. Since I was there three weeks ago, the crank has been removed.

I got the PS pump and both lines/hoses in a set, still attached to the pump all the way to the rack. Since the block was out/flipped/up front, removing the PS lines didn't even involve getting underneath. So I have one spare high pressure hose that does not appear to have been leaking when parked.

Also got another IP belt tensioner -- it was just sitting in the dirt (crank pirates).

The valve cover was gone, so was the head. I wanted the VC, drat.

Got the harmonic balancer. In two pieces (delaminated) and some evidence of beating on it on the edge, but not deformed enough to affect true at the belt surface. I may have it repaired (Damper Doctor) and put it on a shelf for now.

Got the IP -- it is battered by the crank pirates as they didn't figure out how to get the sprocket off so took the whole timing cover off with the IP attached, but didn't bother to remove the coolant hoses to the CSD, and flipped the block upside down to remove the oil pan and crank with the IP still attached by the coolant hoses -- bashed hell out of the injector lines. The IP sprocket popped right off when tapped on the edge

There's an '83 gasser in the same JY, looks like it has maybe three more weeks before crushing. Door plate says '81 but firewall says L4N71B and has console OD cancel switch, so it's an '83 or '84 -- AT is missing already. No cigarette lighter! Grey interiour, good buckets, cracks in glovebox pad but instrument cluster surround is perfect. Didn't have a real phillips screwdrive with me, so didn't get the Ign. lock assys.

I can't save them all.

[goglio704]

I wouldn't know what to think if I found a Maxima in a yard around here. A "Pull - A - Part" yard has opened up recently. It is fairly convenient to me and is a 7 day operation. I'll have to keep tabs on it.

The new PS hose is doing well so far. I think I'll get the cooling system up to snuff and then see about getting the AC working...

[goglio704]

On my first trip to the above mentioned new yard, I found they have 2 Gen 1 Maximas. An 82 and an 84. Both are gas sedans. This yard is managed in the modern style - entire rows getting crushed on a 4 to 6 week rotation. Prices seem reasonable. I can't complain too much about the crushing schedule because most of the other yards around here won't even take a car that old - they go directly to the shredder.

[goglio704]

This car has been running just a little warm lately - even when driving over 45 MPH. To me, that ruled out the lack of a fan as a cause. I decided to check the thermostat, and sure enough, it had the wrong one without the extra part that closes off the bypass. I still need to flush the cooling system. I can see scale in the radiator. Hopefully, some radiator flush will remove or reduce these deposits.

[goglio704]

With cooler weather here, I have finally got around to running some flush in this car. Hopefully, I don't wipe out the water pump in this one. The gasser conversion puked a water pump when I flushed it. After I had filled it with fresh coolant of course. Is there anything I can run with the flush to give the water pump some lube? Seems like it would interfere with the flush.

[asavage]

Is there anything I can run with the flush to give the water pump some lube?

No. If the seal begins leaking because of the flush stuff (which isn't all that hard on the seal), that's a seal I want to fail in my driveway, not 300 miles from home.

[goglio704]

That was how I looked at it too. The seal had to be very marginal for this to have happened. Never hurts to ask.

[goglio704]

I started a project(s) on this car last weekend. I decided to pull the intake manifold in order to swap it for my clean spare. While I have the manifolds off, I also want to fix an oil leak. The leak seems to be coming from the point where the vac pump oil line meets the block. I'm going to replace the washers on the banjo fitting and hope that fixes it. I guess the tube could be cracked. Hope not. If the tube is cracked, I may look at getting a hose made up that would be one piece from the block to the pump instead of the tube then hose configuration it was built with.

Somewhere during all this I had a "While I'm at it..." type thought. A very dangerous type of thought to be sure. I decided to install a block heater while access was so good. Today, I finally got my hands on a heater after getting the run around from Napa's online store.

So, in short, I have can of worms open and hope to put the lid back on this weekend. Of course, while I'm at it, I should pull the radiator and get it cleaned out...